THENIG

Not sure what their GTR dump pipes are like, the split dump for the RB20 is very good quality, went in without any clearance issues, welds were cleaned up nicely, O2 sensor fitted without any dramas, i never did get around to checking if the flanges were proper 300 series stainless with a magnet, its been on the car maybe 6 months and there isnt any sign of corrosion yet. As i said i wouldn't be able to tell you what the GTR dumps are like, but their overall customer service and postage costs are pretty reasonable. I think i have read before on the forums that they are all made here in oz(as opposed to taiwan/china knockoffs with questionable quality materials), im not sure if thats still the case, ring them up and ask them, i would only be speculating.

Thanks for the info limpus, i found the pipe that you were talking about through NS, will probably buy one this week, i would have prefered a solid pipe, but im guessing the flex joint is there for a reason and is designed not to leak or rust out. Will let you know how everything goes, good ot bad.....

Yeah i think thats what i plan on doing, either way i will be selling one, just need to source the bottom half of the dump pipe for HKS pipe if i decide to keep it. Just wanted to see if anybody else has gone through this and came out with the best solution. Cheers

Thanks heaps for your advice, what your discribing bout boost spiking hadn't crossed my mind, but is a pretty good argument to keep the hks dump. I dont want to hack up the JJR only to find its not what i want and then not be able to sell it. Question:: GK tech?? how much and where from?? Re: gt2530kai?? Yes it is, i will keep you updated on how things go, since i can only take my car off the road on the weekends i plan to change the turbo and cam gear one weekend, and Z32 AFM gtr injectors the following week and towing it somewhere for a remap on the monday. I have a loom that came with a resistor pack already spliced into gtr plugs, but im still not confident i will be able to knock it off in a day so im giving it a whole day. I would love to find a set of series 5 RX7 injectors and drop them in before it gets tuned but i cant find any and from what i can understand you still need to change the plugs to fit and their spray pattern isn't as desirable as GTR injectors. Since im attempting most of it myself i would prefer the RX7 injectors... Cheers Rob

I havn't tried yet, JJR one is fitted with standard turbo at the moment, i will be putting the 2530 on in the next few weeks, i am 100% sure i will have to modify it (cut the divider off) to make it fit the 2530, because i dont have it off the car and sitting side by side im not sure if the wastegate flapper holes are in the same spot for both turbo's. Im worried now that the JJR dump pipe will create unwanted turbulence with the 2530. I have had no complaints with the JJR split dump i have now, by far the best BFYB mod i have done soo far.

I have a 2530 that will be going on soon, it came with the top split dump pipe (same as left pic), however.... i already have a JJR (right pic) style dump pipe that is already fitted and has been thermo wrapped and sealed. Do i go out and spend more money on the bottom half to match the hks item or do i keep the one i have already and cut the little waste gate divider off and try and make it fit the turbo?? Does anybody have any opinion as to which would give better results (if any), or where i could buy the bottom half of the dump pipe?? I think i turfed my standard one when i did the last swap. (pics for illustration purposes only) VS Turbo 6 bolt outlet

+1 best and cheapest way to gets stuff from from yahoo auctions, with the least hassles, even if you speak japanese

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Collectively with your friends you have almost enough standard parts in your respective garages to build another car or two. When your suburban neighbours give you daggers as you drive down their street at 20km/h under the speed limit, wondering if they are going to report you to the EPA

Still for sale???

Slightly off topic but does anybody know who sells 'bolt on' garret ball bearing series turbo kits for rb20?? Or is it only GCG and Hp in a box?? I would prefer a melbourne distributor so at least if im paying top dollar i can have some after sale service. There seems to be a big price descepency between aussie distributors and buying off ebay direct from the states. I don't trust ebay for stuff like that, has anybody bought a disco or 2871R that bolts straight on to a RB20 this way??

Gold!!! So true!!!

Has anybody who has done this 'mod' notice their air-conditioning not working aswell or hot air entering the cabin during stop start driving?? The HVAC sucks outside air from the base of the windscreen when its not in recirc mode and by raising the bonnet wouldn't this means it's sucking hot air from the engine bay instead? i actually read up a bit on this a while ago and i think you will find no real conclusive evidence that this helps your water temps, it stuffs up the aerodynamics that is going on inside your engine bay im pretty sure by creating a high pressure system in your engine bay, this stops air from being drawn through your radiator like it was designed to do. Unless your doing static burnouts or slow speed stuff that creates alot of heat without aerodynamics coming into play i would say leave it alone, maybe in certain high mount turbo installations it may be beneficial?? Has anyone got real data on this??

Just thanks for the reply, shame i saw it too late, i had to turn down bout 4mm off the bushings before they would fit, and the bolts that came with them were way too long. It turned a 30min job into a few hours.

You might find that the 4 doors are a little cheaper for insurance with some companies, (maybe the only 89' 4 door skyline they have in there system is the R31), either that or there isn't as big a data set for 4 door imports as there is for 2 doors to base there stats on. (im sure somebody will correct me on this one, buts this is just my reasoning). And if you park your car in a tight garage like i do its a hellava lot easier to get out of a four door with its shorter doors than a coupe, at least in my situation. I may be wrong but you also sit a little higher in the 4 doors with factory seats, but you get shitty cloth instead of the velour in the coupes, unless it have a late model 4 door interior. None of this will matter if you don't like the look of the sedan. I suppose its just personal choice. If you using it for a drift hack its way easier to put tyres and tools in the back seat of a 4 door that in a coupe. Just rip the base of the rear seat out and you will have heaps of room!!

Thanks for inviting me Juzzy and organising everything else for us, had a ball, even though i dont think i successfully completed one driving task. As for the hot sauce incident.... the guilty puppydog look on his face as if he was getting told off for shitting on the carpet when you were having words with him out the back of Taco Bills..... priceless. Sorry you had to go though that agony for our entertainment. As for the naughty puggydog you are an evil evil person to pull a gag like that knowing how much trouble you were getting yourself into. I love it. Thanks for everybody who gave their time over the weekend for us so we could just drive in and tear up. Cheers. Rob

Any love?

Car is R32, with ABS, standard steering wheel, 6 mth old power steering belt, full PS fluid, all fuses under dash intact. In my usual last minute style, i decided to wire up the tomei hicas module last night before DECA this weekend, i havn't been able to find a definitive answer to my problem searching the forums so im putting it out there again. Put shims in before wiring up module 2 nights ago, unplugged a plug in the engine bay down next to the battery. Hicas light came up on dash, power steering fine, drove car like that for a about 50km, got home last nite after driving like this for a day and started to cut wires as per instructions on this forum to wire up module, installed module and took it for a drive and the power steering has gone heavier, i have since unplugged the module and put the wires back to standard config but the steering went back to being heavy after a few minutes after i jumped onto the freeway but the Hicas light on the dash has stayed off, i must have done something wrong. Question 1: Have i done this in the wrong order? Does the module need to go in first?? I havnt been able to get in the car into Hicas mode since the module was installed. 2: Is it bad for the PS pump to be driving the car around with it like this?? I wont be able to remove the shims before i drive up probably since i am leavings straight from work. 3: Is there any other plugs that i should disconnect under the car on in the engine bay? Car had no PS leaks when i was under there 2 days ago installing the shims. IF anyone reads this topic today i would greatly appreciate any advice or similar pages to read. Cheers Rob

I have a light silver one in perfect condition, with the spolier still intact, but missing the brake light. Im in melbourne.

Did you ever find out any more info on this? ie: regarding aftermarket castor arms, would aftermarket R32 GTR castor arms fit a R32 GTSt? I only ask because from what i can see in pics, neither aftermarket type have a kink in them and most GTR castor arms have equal size ball joint bushes, Hmmm...

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Yeah thanks guys for correcting me on that one, i apologise for posting before researching more on the forums. For some reason $600 was stuck in my head from what people were asking for them on Ebay a while back. I think i need to invest some time figuring out Yahoo auctions and the babelfish translator. Im still curious as to what those things are for at the end of the springs on the OEM coilpacks of a 32. I can't remember if the splitfires had them also? Cheers Rob

Simon did you have to change the D-shackle things that fasten the bushings at the front? I'm going to attempt to swap a 25mm swaybar for the standard one this weekend, i have 25mm and 27mm bushings but havn't looked under the car yet to see if the outside diameter will fit in the standard D-shackles, if anybody else has done the swap i would love to know what came with it, i bought the bar with the links secondhand. Cheers

next time you have your coil pack cover off lean over the motor and look towards the front of the car, you will see these little louvers that vent between the area under the cam cover and the area between the cylinder head that the coil pack cover seals up, any type of venting of the coil pack cover or leaving it off is bad news for the longevity of your cam gears/belt and other pulleys that reside behind your cam cover. That area is not meant to be vented to the dusty turbulent environment under your hood. That area is meant to stay sealed, unless you can figure out a way to stop dust getting into that area under your cam cover i would only be taking my coilpack cover off on the track if you plan to drive your car daily and save your coil packs, if anybody else has an opinion on this i would love to hear it,

I've had the JJR coilpacks in for a month and they have changed how my car drives completely, well worth the $400 spent (but not much more), smoother, revs cleaner, no more 'skyline miss'. They replaced my factory ones that would be pushing 18yo. The way i look at is this; 'if the standard ones lasted 18 years and still worked OK after 150K's, why the f#ck do i need ones that are going to last another 18 years and 150K's? Seriously, if im still driving my dirty poo in 5 years time there ain't gonna be much left of the car thats original, i don't want to be driving round a car over 25yo as my daily. Who can seriously say that they want to be driving their skyline as a daily after another 150k's on the clock, sorry for those that might but i wouldn't. Good on JJR for bringing some competition to the market, it's about time we stop getting held for ransom forced to pay $600 for splitfires. 5% of my cars buying price on coilpacks doesn't make sense, they ain't going to make my car any faster compared to $600 spent anywhere else on my car. I find it interesting that Splitfires dropped $100 over night it seems, (or did they drop in price to $500 before the JJR packs were released?) either way it goes to show how much of a mark-up somebody is making along the line, i have closely inspected both and there is nothing wrong with the fit and finish of the JJR ones, im not saying that quality is determined by how something looks, but.... having worked in the R&D and design of industrial injection moulded plastics I would reason that you wouldn't spend soo much capital on the die's to make these parts if you weren't going to use quality materials in the rest of the product. I couldn't see any hints of 'dodgy knockoff' in the choice of materials or quality of manufacture on any of the packs. One thing i did notice however is that the JJR ones don't have the little graphite ceramic contact thingy that my factory ones had attached to the end of the spring that sits on the plug, im not sure what they do or if they are important for logevity to stop corrosion over time but im pretty sure not all factory skyline coilpacks have those anyway, i don't plan on keeping the car for long enough to find out, and with a 12month Australian waranty then you would have to really think hard to justify the extra money on a set of Splitfires. Just my 2 cents...