juls33

going to install a 040 pump into my 33 and need some info on what size hose to use

speedflow.com.au ebay have them cheap sometimes to

same specs pls

i was hoping to find a warehouse type place to get a roll of the stuff and a heap of fittings, not real keen on mass dollars for pirtek etc to make them.

where is the best place to get braided line and fittings i need to make up some turbo lines , clutch and some fuel fittings any help would be good thanxs

nice curve now a little kick at 110 where boost flat lines for a bit nice straight line for arfs too 13.2 down to 12 wot

after my play with it it ran 157.3 the tuner had another go at it he was a little pissed/embarrassed all up i got 168.9 on standard boost still a little low but better than 145

back off to the tuner today just droped her off he still thinks there not much he can do hes going to check it again and give me a read out probs i found wiring exposed on o2 sensor fouled plugs regaped to .8 afm dirty tps slightly out of range faulty boost soleniod wouldnt go above 4psi

i found shit loads of power went through all the map and it looks ok changed some timing cells drove it today went ok still shitty idle, but better installed a boost controller tonite would not idle or rev and missed at idle it was reading 3/4 load took out the o2 sensor tested all good when putting it back in i noticed the wires on the car loom side were all exposed repaired the plug and its a diff car heaps of boost loads in the right spot now i just have to clean my plug s :-) back to the dyno

with the inj settings, they are injector correction what are the varibles min max just trying to understand my maps

spot on i had to turn it off (boost control) still didnt make a diif however

nope standard nothin extra i drove it with the standard map briefly not long enough to say either way i can say it didnt have the holes like it does now it just seems to lose its place or something and cut ignition , do pfc have a self diag?

its not the engine it has to be the tune i can plug the old ecu in and it heaps better and no dramas 162 was third gear peak at 115kph standard ecu 145 was 4 gear 150kph pfc same day same dyno ?

no im in townsville thats why soo expensive only one tuner i used to trust :-{ ohh and my fuel economy is very poor 205 km to a full tank (50l) fuel ratios are spot from the dyno printout

the wksp i used is a tuning wksp it cost me a tad under 1000(just to tune) so im a little pissed

i had the power fc tuned by a wksp change the ecus over and its normal ???? ecu was the only thing he changed

standard r33 series two with pod and 3.5in to 4in turbo back exhaust made 162 kw@w after power fc install its got 145kw and surges at cruze and sometimes it cuts out all together compression is good new plugs etc so my question is why did i spent 2k plus buyin this thing and getting it tuned ?? any idea? can i retune it myself?

u have to check it wiht the ingnition on and the harnes pluged in you are looking for around 0.4 closed just stick your probe into the insulation

could i get mine changed to "purple33" "juls33" thanxs

location pics colour km ?????

just adjust the friction point follow the clutch pedal up and where the master cylinder meets the pedal remove the r clip and pull out the clevis pin, losen the 10(or 12)mm lock nut and screw the mounting U piece anti clockwise(about three turns) then do it all up and see how that feels you may all have a leak pull the rubber boot of the slave cyl a little bit a see if there any fliud in there .

signal wire is the middle wire of the bottom connector should read 0.6v at idle and 4.0v wot with ignition on set to these values and clutch in stutters are no more

a little help on the adjust ment for the series two TPS their are two connectors which one does what i know the values for the signal wire are 4v - 0.6 var 3.0 which connector do i check thanxs

frt bar under the horns, theres another in the dash next to your aerial hight switch

same pics would you take 300