mad082

the $22 controller should be setup like this

the hole they are talking about is a tiny hole from where it bleeds the air off. outlet valve should be going to the actuator.

you should be able to buy them with a 0.8mm gap. personally i don't agree with running iridiums. nissan recommends them for longer life, but my copper plugs lasted as long as the iridiums did, and the cost for 6 copper plugs was the same as 1 iridium.

good luck.

nissan also tuned these cars to run on a higher octane rating fuel than we have, so going to a colder plug will stop a bit of pinging.

i was watching it and it brought up all the gibberish about the motor, which i don't normally look at since most of it is in japanese, but i glanced up and saw 3s-gte and thought WTF? i was expecting it to be a 2j

but still, it was a 2140cc 4 cylinder...... nah man, i'm just shit stiring. yes it did do bloody well.

mine would make small amounts of boost if you just floored it (spike up to maybe 5psi) but wouldn't go to full boost.

well it is working ok for this topic, but still not on the others

since the site upgrade, whenever i open a page it comes up with the done but with errors on page in the bottom line of the screen. if i open a thread (like forced induction) its ok, but as soon as i go into a topic it says it. is it me, or is it something to do with the upgrade? nothing on my computer has changed since the upgrade of the site.

just watched the gtr vs the supra video. the gtr gets beaten by a 4 cylinder with 150ps less power.

and i think you have to disconnect the TPS too.

they aren't supposed to replace your low beam bulbs. they are just a park light that is a ring around your headlight. you can make them rather easily. all you need is some plastic rods (like the ones that are on house blinds that you twist for opening and closing them) some LEDs, a toaster (or heat gun to heat the rod up to bend it into shape), a hacksaw to score the rod to give the light somewhere to emit from. there is a site somewhere on the net that shows you how to do it.

i wish i could could overtake a fast car that was driven slowly so i could post a super gay video on youtube.

by the look of the video, i think it may be just a dodgy gauge. it doesn't actually sound like it is spooling, and it jumps up very quick. my mates car you could hear the turbo spool. does one of your mates have a gause you could borrow? where does they gauge read from?

there is a guy in town with one of them on a rb20. makes 12psi at 4800rpm, redlines at 7200, so he has 2400rpm of usable power. made 288rwhp (214kw). sounds like complete arse untill it comes on boost.

the reason you gained mid power was because the air could syphon a bit better with the smaller piping, but at top end you had obviosly maxed out that size piping. or it could've been due to different whether conditions, etc etc etc.

unless you have an anti-lag system. but my guess is 1 of the 3 things i said before. on my mates car he would make 15psi by reving the car on the spot. that was on a ca18. it would accelerate really slow (and just sitting on the spot it would rev up really slow like the timing was really retarded). we just thought the timing belt had jumped a tooth as it was overdue for a new belt, untill we took the rocker cover off and the cam was snapped near where it goes into the crank angle sensor. it still had enough pressure to spin the cas, but not all the time.

also on a side note, i would lose the 3" cooler piping on the cold side. go back to 2.5". the fact is that cold air is denser, so that once it comes out of the cooler it takes up less space than it did when it was hot, so you would be better off with 3" on the hot side and 2.5" on the cold side.

does the car rev up really slowly now? is it really gutless? if it is, you have a major timing issue. your timing belt may have jumped a tooth, or your crank angle sensor may be shagged, or worse case scenario (and this happened to a mate of mine a few weeks back) you have a broken cam.

could be a belt vibrating on a pulley. the missus pulsar has a belt chatter at idle from the aircon belt. if you switch the aircon off it goes away.

ecr33 for turbo. hr33 was the non turbo rb20 powered gts. er33 was the rb25 non turbo gts, enr33 was the rb25 non turbo gts-4, bcnr33 was the gtr (r32 gtr was only bnr32, no c)

sr20 into a mitsubishi sigma or datsun (can buy bolt up kits for the datsuns that have the engine mounts and stuff) or any small car as long as it isn't a gemini or torana i know a guy with a turbo xf falcon for sale for about 3k. thats in qld, not sure where you are.

that's the spirit.

i wouldn't use big centre mufflers. one of tha magazines did a test on a xr6t stock exhaust. they measured the restriction pressure before each muffler. they removed the centre muffler and did before and after dyno tests and gained 17kw, and it was still within the legal sound levels. now i understand that the power gain may be not 100% accurate, but the back pressure dropped by about 1 bar i think.