mad082

here's the story. when my mate finally gets his r33 on the road i am going to put an air temp sensor in the intercooler pipe after the intercooler, and 1 in the pod to finally see how much of a difference a heat shield makes. plenty of people have done this just seeing the temp at the air filter, but not once it has been heated up by the turbo then cooled by the intercooler. i personally don't think there will be much difference. i know from personal experience with firends cars with aftermarket ecu's that have an air intake temp sensor that don't have heat shields have had intake temps at or below ambient air temp. my personal theory is that on a turbo car with no intercooler a heat shield will make a difference, but on a car with an intercooler the difference will be very small, if any. the reason i think this is that the air gets heated up above ambient by the act of compressing it, then is cooled by the intercooler. so if you have an efficient intercooler it will cool the air to ambient temp no matter what temp it starts at. i am going to do this thoroughly. i will test at different speeds and test multiple times to rule out any heat soak or anything like that. so watch this space.

do you know what was wrong with the AFM. my mate had troubles with his AFM. i just opened it up and resoldered the 3 prongs and it worked like a charm.

still for sale.

depends on the degreaser. i just get a few cans of that export stuff for about $1 each. does the job and doesn't damage the paint. if it does damage the paint then your car has had a respray and it was a very dodgy job. i just spray it on everything, then get a new toilet brush and scrub over everything, then hose away. then run the engine for a while to dry everything out.

the r33 gts-t has 2 piston front brakes. in mine there would've been no point upgrading as they locked up easy enough as it was. so bigger brakes would've meant more lock ups. and as it is they will out brake a lot of cars out there, so there is more chance of having some stooge in a commodore running up your arse if you have to stop in a hurry.

have a look in the little alcove where the jack sits. make sure the jack is tight, and stick your hand down in the hole and see if there is anything in there. i found 2 toy cars, some makeup and a few other things in there when i checked mine.

no it's quite easy. you just don't do any visual mods. spend all your money on performance. a car that looks stock is probably as rare as someone that has done something original.

full turbo back exhaust should be first on the list. then pod filter, then up the boost to about 9psi, and get an intercooler upgrade (either r34 side mount cooler, or front mount cooler). after that you can lower it and make it look pretty if thats what you like.

tried to make boost in my mates stanza with a sr20 in it. i think i got it to 1psi bouncing it off the pre-stage rev limiter at 6000rpm.... but it's a 500hp+ car, so the turbo is pretty huge.

when i got my new front bar my reo didn't fit so i made 1 up out of 2 flat bits of 7mm steel and some 1" box tubing.

on all cars the computer thinks less air, so less load, sp more timing, not just toyotas.

was the spoiler an alloy spoiler? if yes then that's why they defected you for sharp edges. i thought the exhaust level was 91, but it may be 89. if the car is made before about 1989 it can be louder though. as for the pod, having the pod enclosed may still count as a mod, so you may just have to go back to the stock airbox.

go to the wreckers and get some off an old falcon or something like that.

its not the exhaust side, its the compressor side starting to wobble and then sending fragments into the motor. have a chat to justin911. he had his let go at the drags and a piece of the compressor wheel get wedged in the butterfly and it was reving its arse off without touching the accelerator.

one of the other problems i had with my turbosmart one was that that hole would get blocked and trap the air in between it and the wastegate so when i grabbed the next gear and floored it the wastegate was still open so at 4000rpm i would be starting to get into positive boost and get to about 7psi by about 6000rpm

pretty sure it is a t88. all i know is it is stupidly huge. it might be 5800rpm that it makes boost.

never had any troubles with my $22 controller. had troubles with my $250 turbosmart dual stage though. it would bleed off from 14psi to about 11psi. the $22 one would go from 14psi to about 13psi.

yeah. give it a try like that.

if you are worried about weight, just don't have any stereo gear, or never fill the fuel tank past half way.

yeah thats the only bad bit.

*chases*

but that doesn't make it a gtr, otherwise there would be gtr silvias and 180s as well.

except that it is a gtr tribute with footage of a r34 4 door.

i ran my 33 on 14psi for about 8 months, turbo was still going. they do seem to go a lot better at 14psi than 11 or 12, contrary to popular belief. sure they may last a shorter period of time, but they may not. if people have had thiers blow at 10 or 11 then shouldn't everyone just run it at 7psi to be safe? the ones that blow at low boost have probably spent a lot of time at redline (doing burnouts, etc), by a previous owner, etc. because that its really what kills a turbo, running big boost and then holding it high in the rpm.

if shitty stainless is used it will crack easier.