mad082

i think there is a z200 and z201. i think it was the 200 that i used, but can't remember. i know that the one i replaced was a valvoline v06, or vf6. if you get them to look in the back of the book and look up that part number and see what it is in a ryco number that will help. or just get the part number off your old one.

around 200kw at the wheels

you don't understand. if the kids stole the bikes from someone, and they report them stolen, the he tries to sell them, he will get into shit.

i think that harness the people are using is the gtr harness. pm uras and ask him.

these awards aren't just based off how fast the car can go. the LS1 is a rubbish motor compared to the bmw motor. there is very little techonology used in it. it is just a 350ci motor. it is no smoother than the old 350 chevs. the rb26 is a straight 6 as for reliability, there a few common problems with the ls1. powersteering pumps blowing up, gearboxes stuffing up, a oil consuption tolerance of 1 litre per 10000kms (they will often use 1 litre of oil per oil change, and that is tolerated as standard from factory. it isn't until it is using more than that that it is actually classed using oil).

did you not read the bit where i said that if you try to sell the bikes and they are stolen you might get bent over for possesion/selling stolen property?

remove his testicles too so he can't breed more like him.

unless you have an aftermerket ecu it can't be tuned anyway.

if you had the dump pipe off, when you put it back on it might not be clearing the wastegate, so the wastegate isn't opening properly.

the rear wiper was an option. that's a series 1.5/2 wing, not a gtr wing in the r33 all turbo coupes and manual sedans were type m. there was a model of the auto sedan that was a type g (from memory the letter was g) that had a 5 speed auto. i think the ones with the ative lsd were a type ML. in the r32 the type m had bigger brakes and leather gear boot, knob and hand brake cover.

stricko: your afm may have a dodgy solder in it. might be worth opening it up and re soldering the plug inside.

oh well. a good cooler will flow better than a cheap cooler (most of the time). and a high flowing fmic will more than make up for the extra distance the air has to go. the stock cooler is rather restrictive, so the air is going slow. when i put on my hybrid cooler i found that there was no extra lag, and once it was on boost it definately had more power.

have you tried swapping them with ones off a working car to make sure?

also, the gtr cooler will require you to get custom piping made up, so you might was well just go a fmic. then enjoy the cold temps that winter brings.

if 16:1 afr is rich, then i'd hate to see what you call lean. bax: as GTST said, start with a new pump (and filter just to be on the safe side). that should make a world of difference.

i agree with GTST on this. try new plugs first. even if it isn't the problem, it won't hurt to put new plugs in and tape up the coils. and at about $30 for the lot, it's a cheap place to start.

i'd say it would be cheaper to sell it down the track and get a turbo car. it isn't just the engine that is different. the turbo comes standard with an LSD, which is only an option on the NA, brakes, etc. so by the time you get a NA up to par with a turbo you could've bought a turbo car and kept the NA as well.

if they were stealing stuff out of your car the bikes probably weren't theirs. so i would take them to the cops, cause the last thing you need is for the rightful owner of the bikes to find out you have them, then you get into shit for possesing stolen property. if they were stolen and you take them in that will be something else that the kids can be charged for. and if no-one claims the bikes after 3 months they become yours. but as much as it sucks to get shit stolen, you dd leave your window down. that doesn't help prevent shit like this happening. car covers just mean that once the little pricks get into the car they can steal all the stuff without people seeing them do it.

it may be worth fitting a new fuel pressure reg, or getting a rising rate fuel pressure reg. magnas have a similar problem once a pod/k&n panel filter is fitted.

if it is pre-igniting you have a problem with a cylinder/piston. i think you mean detonation. they are 2 different things. pre-ignition is where there is a hot spot in the bore or piston that is igniting the fuel before the spark. on cars with carbies they will continue to run after you turn the key off untill the hot spot cools. and it melts your spark plugs, and usually ends in a warped head/cracked piston. detonation is where the fuel doesn't burn in a even pattern. instead of burning in a wave it just all ignites at once. i don't think the tuning has anything to do with it, otherwise normal aussie built cars would run like crap when you put ultimate in there since they are only tuned for 91 octane fuel. i'd say it is a bad batch of fuel. i stopped using shell fuel after i went to a servo one night and an ambulance in front of me started then stalled before it got out of the driveway after filling up and wouldn't start again. it turned out there was water in the fuel. not sure if it was the servo's fault of a bad batch, but after that i stay clear of it just to be on the safe side.

does it usually do it at the same rpm all the time?

the xr6t are a grossly undertuned engine from factory to keep them below the v8 power level. they are only running 6psi. with a flashtune, better exhaust and some more boost they become a rather impressive machine indeed. the big thing would be to get 1 from new, and baby it for the first few thousand k's. i think a lot of the problems that there are with the xr6ts is that people are getting them then thrashing them from day 1, and not letting the engine wear in. but then they are a 1700kg car. but if you want to carry friends, or tow, it is the one. as far as the gtr goes, you have the problem of if something does break, it will probably cost a fair bit more to fix. my mate was quoted under $1000 for a new turbo from ford for his xr6t. but you do get the image that goes with it, and 4wd. but you also get the police attention too.

if your air box is too restrictive then you will lose power. you will be getting cold air, but you won't be getting enough air. you might only be getting 90% of the air you were before. try adding in other cold air feeds to get more power. also the restricter in the exhaust wouldn't be helping.

not hard to get into a car. especially a skyline. you just pull the window out far enough to get something in to open the door. they need a deadlock on them. as for the steering wheel. kinda serves you right for having a steering wheel that is a theives best friend. even though they won't be able to do much with it, it makes life hard for you. especialy if you leave the car somewhere exposed. you either have to get it towed, or leave the car where it is which gives them time to have another go. i'd make up a thin wire cable loop (kind of like what computer shops/phone shops use) to make it so the steering wheel can only be removed and put up on the dash, but can't be taken out of the car. sure they could cut it, but it will stop the smash and grab types.

somehow i doubt that that would give you a 26kw gain. if it did it would only make it similar in power to a 33. then do the same mods to a 33 and it will have much more power than the 32. stock NA 33 = 104kw/ton stock NA 32 = 94kw/ton stock vx commodore = approx 98kw/ton