mad082

there are quite a few v35 skylines in australia

i'm pretty sure that motor magazine took a carrera gt for a strap through the NT to test out it's top speed, but i'm not sure. i will have to find the mag.

his mods are "possibly" highflowed turbo (i am going to take it off on the weekend and have a look), 040 pump which i put in on the weekend, new spark plugs, pod filter, fmic, turbosmart boost controller, turbo back exhaust and remapped ecu. i think that is all, dan will post up if i missed any. i know it can't be the dyno reading out because a r33 with stock turbo, remapped ecu, full exhaust, cooler on 14psi made 271hp immediately before him, and a xr6t with flashtune and 12psi made 299.3hp dirrectly after him. i was talking to the dyno operator and he said that it came up to around 100hp at about 80kmh nice and easilly and then just didn't really keep going from there. a few problems we know of are: missing one of the nuts from where the turbo bolts to the manifold, has a loose bolt on the compressor housing (one of the ones that if you loosen you can spin the housing round). we know it isn't a fuel issue as once it came on boost the afr's dropped from mid 12's down to low to mid 10's. the graph was a bit rough and when they put the graph from the run a few weeks back it was much, much smoother. my guess is that the turbo is just dead, which is why i want to pull it off this weekend. the whistle dan mentioned is also there on boost, he just can't hear it from inside the car.

i did an 040 install into a r33 on the weekend. if i had all the tools and parts on hand (instead of waiting for people to drive around and get them for me) i could've done it in about 30 mins. as it was it took me under 2 hours, and in that time i also installed a new fuel filter, and spent a fair bit of time talking and waiting for people to turn up with clamps, etc). it took me about 10 mins to get the pump out. then i just removed the old pump, snapped the L shapped bracket off (bend it a few times in each direction till it snaps), then mounted the pump to the bracket, put it back in and bobs your auntie. i didn't cut the metal hose at all. i just butted the top of the pump up against it and put the stock hose over them both. this has the base of the bracket about inline with the writing on the pump (so it sticks down about an inch below the base of the bracket). this means that the top of the bracket doesn't go down the whole way in it's little clip (only about 90%), but so far we have had the fuel gauge down to about a needle width above the empty line with no signs of surging. the base of the pump sits about 5mm higher that the bottom of the pipe in the sock of the stock filter. i used all the stock fittings, the only bits i used that weren't factory were 2 hose clamps to hold the pump to the bracket. i just drilled out the stock ring terminals cause i couldn't be bothered waiting for someone to go buy me some bigger ones. i will photochop the pic at the top of the page to show how i had it sitting since i didn't take any pics.

i saw they should feed vegetarians to the lions at the zoo..... although the lions would probably spit them back out.

oh i know how those people feel. the other day i got a coffee and only wanted 400 grains of sugar and they put in 401 grains of sugar. that extra grain of sugar just completely ruined it. LOL oh well, in 20 years time when they are pasty, malnurished vegetarians that can barely lift their arms off the bed they may rethink their decision not to eat meat. i'm suprised the PETA hasn't gone to the african plains and tried to prtest against the wild lions eating zebras. animals eat other animals. humans are animals so it is only natural for us to eat other animanls. if we weren't suppesed to eat animals, god wouldn't have made them out of meat.

methanol octane is about 128, ethanlol is about 126. the only down side to a higher octane is that it makes it harder to ignite, that is why you can advance the timing with them.

unless there is more piping for your fmic kit that what is show, you won't be replacing the pipe where the bov is. the pipe from the turbo to the stock intercooler will still be used, as will the pipe with the bov on it. the 3 bits of pipe shown go from where the stock intercooler sits to the fmic, and then the other 2 go from the fmic to the side fire wall and the next from the side firewall to the pipe with the bov on it. as for the bov, just get an adapter. the best plave to have a bov fitted is as close to the throttle body as possible. it keeps the air flowing in the one direction.

you can pick up s1's for under 10k. i would just get the cleanest, best looked after one you can find. no matter what series it is.

from a work done point of view it is bloody good. it must've cost a packet and taken some man hours to do. where they came up with the stupid idea is anyones guess, but they did a good job.

the rest of the pipe will stick suck in a little, but only a tiny bit, nothing like how much it would without this mod. nice work.

yeah it turned out that the stock loom was a bit dicky. it was just stopping the ignition signals getting to the coils.

rb20 Max power 158kW @ 6400rpm Max torque 265Nm @ 3200rpm sr20 (from a s13) Max power 151kW @ 6000rpm Max torque 274Nm @ 4000rpm the sr has more torque at higher rpm. and it is only the peak power of the rb20 that is higher. they are probably pretty close in power at 6000rpm where the sr flattens off and the rb keeps going for another 400rpm.

it all depends on what model ls1 it is. if it was a vt or vx i'd say the m3. later models it would be close. with a good set of tyres a m3 would beat a lot of reasonably stock r33's. i saw one put down 233hp (173kw) at the wheels at a dyno day. it was stock. some old rich guy just wanted to put it on to see what it would get.

as long as they are both the same transmission (both auto or both manual) i can't see what it wouldn't work.

the sort of dump pipe that will best suit you depends on how much modifying you plan on doing. if you are going to keep it relatively stock then anything is going to be better than nothing. i got just over 200kw with a cheap ebay dump pipe, but i did modify it slightly to flow better.

do a search for a safc2 wiring diagram for a rb20. this should tell you which wire on the ecu you need to jump off.

i have had disagreements with rev210 in the past over intercoolers, but i agree with him on this one. the only real way to tell if it has actually improved performance is on a dyno. there are major design flaws with that cooler. 1st is that the drivers side end tank isn't rounded, so airflow is dramatically affected. the air comes out of the top part of the cooler and hits a dead flat wall. it needs to be rounded so it is guided round the bend. air speed would be lower on this than a kit with longer piping. the air will flow faster through piping than it will through a cooler. 2nd is that the cooler is too skinny (height wise) so once given a good thrashing it would suffer major heat soak. the heat from the inlet would start radiating down to the area around the outlet. it would probably be ok for stock level cars, but anything with an aftermarket turbo would need a much better cooler. 3rd is that then end take on the passenger side needs to taper in to the piping better. at the moment there would be air coming out of the fins and some would be going straight out the hole, and some would be hitting a dead flat surface and stoping then creating turbulance as it moves sideways. also if the divider between the 2 inlets isn't properly sealed you will be getting hot air going through the gap without being cooled at all.

also check how firm the clamps are on your bulbs. when i first got my 33 the lights were super low. i sat there and wound those adjusters for years and it didn't make a difference. then i opened up the back of the light and i could move the bulb about 4mm. i just bent the little metal bit so it was firmer and they were heaps better, then i had to undo all my winding to get them back to normal.

if you put the afm in the cooler pipes wouldn't you have to put it after the bov so that it doesn't register heaps more air? if you have the bov after it, everytime you lift off and the bov opens the afm is going to register all that air passing it as going into the motor so dump heaps of fuel in (which is what happens with the afm in it's stock position. but if you have it right up against the throttle body then it is only double reading the air in a few inches of piping rather than a metre or 2 of air. btw i am talking about on normal driving and backing off when you go to slow down, not when you are accelerating and changing gears fast. but i also know plenty of people with r33's running atmo bov that don't have stalling issues. i was talking to a guy a few months back that has had 3 skylines, all with stock ecu and atmo bovs that had never heard of the problem (wasn't a forum user). keeping good spark plugs in them helps get rid of most of the stalling issue. i had the stalling issue with my stock bov. also the emanage ultimate has a feature in it to help with the stalling issue.

i think it would add more lag than other ones like that. other ones (like the blitz style) are higher and have the tubes run verticle. in your case the air has to go all the way to the cooler and then back again, so it probably travels a longer distance than a hybrid style cooler. as far as cooling the air goes it would be good for that fact that the air travels a nice long distance in the cooler, but would suffer from pretty bad heat soak since the cold air comes out so close to the inlet. the air would be at it's coldest point just after it has done the 180 degree turn (which would probably slow it down a bit) and then after a bit of driving it would actually heat back up as it reaches the outlet due to the heat radiating down from the area close to the inlet.

7kw more, but it makes less torque.

are you having them install all the bits you bought? i would've been installing things like the fuel pump myself to save time and money. but should be pretty good once you get it back. i do think there may have been a few things that you could've gone without though. they just add to the wank factor of it. things like the hks oil cap. but each to their own.

all r33 have a single stage vct. it changes at between 4500rpm and 5000rpm.

my mate had a problem like this in his ca18. it would make full boost (1 bar) by 1500rpm and take about 5 seconds to rev up to redline. it was really bad to drive. we advanced the cas as far as we could and it made it nearly normal. we tried a new cas but didn't really help. we ended up thinking that it had jumped a tooth on the timing belt till he sold the motor cheap and the new owner opened it up and found that a cam had snapped.