mad082

turns out my mate just had an adapter made up.

also, did you take the cooler piping off to change the fan? if you did then you have put it back in a slightly different position and they is why it hits. just trim the tips off the fan.

holy mega repost batman!

i think it was just from autobarn, but i will find out.

i hate the fact that in nfs carbon on ps2 you can set your camera setting to whatever you like, but as soon as you go into a drift race it is default drift camera and you can't change the default. so every drift race you do you have to change the camera. and then if you want to restart you have to reset it again. it shits me right off. why did they have a default setting that you can't set? yes you can change it, but it just changes it back at the end of the race.

my bad. but yes you can get the adapters for that bov. my mate bought one for his r33 a few weeks back.

nulon pro strength octane booster and bp ultimate at the correct mixture will bump your octane rating up to over 100 (around 103)

another idea would be to weld an old socket to the top so that you can put a ratchet onto it once you have initially got it to turn.

in my case the bracket wouldn't go all the way down because the pump was hitting the base of the tank.

price drop. now only $7000

i think he is a bit confused as to what goes where. either way, just get an adapter and mount the blitz bov on the stock bov's location.

they are pretty cheap. my mate was quote $900 new from ford.

but in that picture you will see that the pipe with the bov on it hasn't been replaced. it is still the factory pipe.

either bcpr6es, or bkr6es (i'm not 100% sure if the bkr ones had an s on the end or not). they are basically the same plug, the bkr one is just a v groove plug. but i have run them both with good results.

i ran coppers on my 33 at 14psi and they lasted 10,000kms before i changed them, and they weren't missing at all. they still had probably another 5,000 or 10,000kms in them. they are less than $4 each, so it isn't that expensive. the iridiums i took out of my car were supposedly only about 20,000km old and they were shagged. iridiums are about $25 each and don't really last that much longer. if you use coppers, the money you will spend on spark plugs over a 50,000km period would be the same as buying 1 set of iridiums.

yeah but it isn't autobarn's fault the turbo is taking a while, it's GCG.

what is happening is that the spark is basically being blown out. there is too much fuel/air for the spark to ignite. platinum plugs are only good becuase they are supposed to last a long time but i don't think they spark as well as coppers or iridiums.

have you taped up the coils at all? if not try that too. i'd clean the terminals in the coils then tape them up. i think that should help. or you could have someone sit under the bonnet while you go for a drive..........

we got a new turbo coming so we are just going to scrap the turbo that's on it. we have just put it down to the fact that the afrs are so rich compared to what they were last time. last time they were in the mid 12's to 13's, now they are low to mid 10's. also found out that the skyline that went on before dan that mad 271hp had afr's of low 13's, so that explains the power it made. but first we gotta replace the rack end and tie rod end cause the passenger side one keeps dropping out cause the thread is stuffed. luckilly it has dropped out while dan is driving on the highway. it has only dropped out while he is in town.

i'm assuming that you are talking about the pipe with the bracket on it? that bracket bolts to the drivers side of the motor near the injector rail. it runs from under the radiator hose on the drivers side to the start of the pipe with the bov on it. the pipe on the left of the cooler in the pic you posted runds from the drivers side of the cooler, through the holoe you have to cut in the side firewall, to the start of the pipe i just mentioned. the pipe on the right of the cooler runs from the where the stock cooler sits (so it joins the stock pipe that comes from the turbo) to the passenger side of the fmic.

it is known as rich and retard, and i'm sure munkyboy knows that. a lot people (even people who know it's proper name, unless they are majorly anal and have to call everything by its 100% correct name) will refer to it as boost cut. i do for 2 reasons. 1. it's easier to say. 2. it sounds a lot less gay. but you aren't hitting it munky. you have a missfire problem caused by your coils. r&r is a sudden, violent cut in power. anyone who has actually felt it will know that. there are too many people who have heard about it but never been in a car when it has done it so they will jump to conclusions. if you want to know what it feels like, go for a drive, floor it then with your left foot stab the brake pedal with a fair bit of force.

just remember that spacers are illegal, so if you go that route, don't complain if you get caught. i would just give it a month of so. they should sort themselves out. if you get sick of the noise just grind a mm or so off the nissan on the calipers, like singh said.

yeah we realise that it is running on the rich side. i think that will be a big factor in the loss of close to 20hp. the afr's on the 230hp run were rather lean. we have a emange waiting to be tuned. we are just waiting for the new turbo to arrive, but dan wants to check that the bottom end is ok (compression test, etc). if it is dead of dying then i have a rb30 sitting in the shed at home that we will build up.

i discovered my thermostat was a factory nissan one and it opened MUCH further than the aftermarket one i bought. it would open about 15-20% more. it opened at similar temps, but it made the car run a bit cooler as it could flow that little bit more water. cubes: what you said about the thermostat opening too far and not letting the water spend enough time in the radiator to cool enough sort of makes sense, but it works both ways. the less it opens the more time that water spends in the motor, so the hotter it gets. the hotter it gets, the hotter then engine is, and the longer it would take to cool the water down. that is why when you run the car without a thermostat it will run cold. by your theory it should run hotter without the thermostat.

rich and retard is a bit of a savage cut in power, very much like someone just kicked the brake pedal. if it is popping and missing then i'd say it is your coils. but i'd get rid of the platinum plugs though. not a big fan of them.