mad082

if you set your car up for 12.0 afr's and then run 13.0 afr's it will ping it's arse off. we put a new fuel pump into my mates r33 a few weeks back. before the pump went in it was running about 13.0 afr's and pinging it's arse off. put the new pump in and the afr's went down to mid 11's and there is absolutely no sign of pinging. yes timing does play a major part in pinging, but so does the amount of fuel. hot spots in the cylinder, etc are cause by temps too high. running lean raises the temp.

also if it was that low in compression in 1 cylinder you would be using a touch of oil and it would blow a bit of smoke when you got into it a bit. get someone to follow you and then give it a good bootful through first and second. if there is no sign of smoke it make be a dodgy test. if it does blow white smoke then the test is correct.

that too. yes cool air does occupy less space. which makes me wonder why all the aftermarket piping kits for ca18 and sr20 have 2" or 2.5" from the turbo to the cooler and then goes to bigger piping after the cooler. just doesn't make sense to me.

this is a bit of a silly question, but can a leak in the cooler piping cause a vacuum leak? my mate has a slight split in his cooler piping and his boost gauge is only reading -10 vacuum instead of closer to 20. i know that the cooler piping has a hose that goes to the idle control valve, but could this cause the loss of vacuum? i just can't see how it could affect it. your intercooler piping doesn't normally see vacuum as it is created by having the throttle body shut. the only thing i can think of is if it is changing the load of the motor so the idle control valve is opening more. we are replacing the split bit of piping anyway.

you may pick up a bit of power going a touch richer. my mate had his 33 on the dyno and i had 2 maps saved on his emanage and we changed between the 2 and picked up hp by adding in 4% more fuel. and his afr was around 12.1. there was no adjusting of the car other than flicking the switch on the emanage to change between the 2 maps. the runs were done about 20 seconds apart and the run with the extra fuel was done second so it would've had more heat in the cooler etc.

a car running lean will make it ping. if it is running lean then the timing will be too advanced for that amount of fuel. and when it runs lean your cylinder temps increase which means there is more chance of pre-ignition. too much timing causes pinging in the same way that running lean does. if it is running rich then it won't ping as easy. it may be worth getting your base timing checked in case it is way out. how many litres are you using to get 300kms? saying that you are getting 300km to a tank means nothing. if your guage is out and you may only be using 3/4 of a tank. i was getting a bit less than that out of my car and my afr's were 14.7 at cruise and around 12 below 5000rpm and then dropped to 11.5 by 7500, which isn't very rich. it was just the way i drove, and the fact that i did a lot of short trips on cold start enrichment, and drove spiritedly when it was warm.

1 bar is over 14psi. (14.5 or 14.7, cant remmeber which)

you are best of having the hot air travelling the longer distance. this gives the cold air the least amount of time to warm back up.

i'd say it was just dodgy plugs, since by changing them it went away. the plugs were probably worn and the gap had increased.

BAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA @ ctjet happy birfday dan!

oh well in that case you won't have any issues.

i rolled the cartridge in both directions, and it still wasn't going to fit.

you won't lose much fuel if you take the fuel cap off first to release the pressure.

the braided hose they give you with the 90 degree bends doesn't fit. you have to take 1 of the 90 degree bends off. i tried rolling the housing, but then the wastegate wouldn't work.

i tested out my mates rb25 afm the other night. at 13psi with a 3076 it was reaching 4.9v and that was only about 270hp. we are going to remove it anyway so that isn't a big issue, but first we need to sort out a few issues we have, such as the intake pipe sucking shut, and an overly restrictive intercooler.

if you were just wanting to start it there is an easy way to bypass the ingition system (unplug 1 plug) so that you don't need the key, but that won't help with the other things.

any of the turbo 6 fords (including the territory). you have the turbo spool, plus a buttload of power and torque to pull your trailer.

unless you have a bigger throttle body all you would be doing is increasing lag. boost pressure will remain unchanged. depending on where you have the wastegate and gauge getting its signal from the pressure your gauge is reading may change, but the pressure that the turbo is creating will not.

if you are mounting that turbo low mount you will have an issue with the oil feed line.

a complete rb25 halfcut that is in good condition is going to cost you well over 3500. more like closer to 6000. take a 33 for a drive and see what you think. i bought mine to go fast rather than look good, that's why i kept the stock wheels, etc. if you do convert the 31 then it still isn't going to drive as well as a 33. you would have to do brakes, diff, etc to get it to perform as well as a newer car. and then there is the changes in the dynamics of the handling.

yeah but then you have to spend a heap on a pfc then more for the software to tune it. you can get a haltech for about $1100 at the moment and the software is free and much more user friendly. you don't have to fill in every square. you can fill in a few and it will fill in the gaps. the new wolf v500 software does the same too, as will the greddy emanage ultimate software.

i used to get similar economy. i put it down to being a lead foot. i would cruise along at 60kmh, but everytime i accelerated it was full biscuit up to the speed limit.

yeah, but that doesn't mean there can't be issues with it fouling the dump pipe, or just stuffing up.

does it lose power then come back, or just lose power?

a new ecu won't fix the problem. it is to do with the variable cam timing. if you got an aftermarket ecu you could adjust where it switches on and off, but that would just move the problem, not get rid of it. if you didn't have the vct kick in at all you would just end up with it being less powerful at low rpm. about the only solution is aftermarket cams.