mad082

whichever one is smaller. i know that a t70 on a rb20 won't really start to boost till about 5500rpm, all in by about 6000rpm, so i'd say it would be similar on a sr20. so if you want to drift you might want a turbo that if your revs drop won't drop off boost.

i heard it may be released here as a monaro, which will really piss off the fella that paid 100k for the last monaro.

i want to put it on the dyno to check the tune on it (since it has only been road tuned) but he doesn't want to until he has it all sorted. the tune is pretty safe so i'm not worried from that respect. it has been using a little bit of oil for a while now, but it is just hard to work out exactly where it is coming from. it never blew any smoke really (just the odd puff when stabbing it off the line, but even then it might only be once every few days, never a constant thing) so it has me baffled.

no offence dude, but that is extremely low for those mods. i know a guy that got 230hp out of his stock 33. so either your car is sick, or the dyno is. most people with a safc are up around the 200kw (270hp) range. also i know someone who got a about a 20kw gain from his. and then when he put his pfc on he got the exact same max hp figure, but it was stronger down low.

i could be wrong but i think that the vl turbos had a rather small exhaust housing on them. and the cost of getting it highflowed would be about as much as getting a new turbo, or the stock r33 one highflowed.

good call.

supras are also less common. r34's are the new 33. 34's are mostly driven by pretty boys who's daddy bought their car for them.

nah, they will run for ages once they have thrown a leg out. my father in law once drove from one side of brisbane to the other with 2 legs hanging out of a v8. they just seize up eventually.

the supra will walk all over the gt-t. get a flat 10 out of a gt-t and it is going to be just as bad. you don't get a 10 second car by having a turbo that makes full boost by 3500rpm.

lol. i told him should just keep driving it home until it siezes but he wouldn't. it's not like the motor isn't already stuffed. while we were waiting for a tow another mate did skids in it. not very good skids though.

i got a phone call a few weeks back from a mate saying that his daily shitter (80's model ford courier ute) had developed a rattle. it had been getting progressively worse over a few days. we pulled the motor out and i need help diagnosing the problem. i have taken some pics to help with the diagnosis. i think it may be the engine mount cause in this pic it is missing a bolt :laughing-smiley-014:

even a 3" is big enough for mild rb25s.

i did, but he hasn't got around to it yet. i saw him drive up the street this morning and he gave it a stab. didn't realyl see any smoke when he stabbed it, but there was a little bit when he stopped in traffic, but it almost looked like condensation. also, when i said it was burning off oil, i meant that it was just using oil, not that oil spilt on the motor. it kind of sounded like that's what i meant.

ok, well the compression test showed that compression was ok. not sure what the fidures were (since it's not my car and i wasn't there) but the mechanic said they were fine.

twin 2.5" doesn't have the same area as a 5". 5" has an area of 126cm2 a single 2.5" has an area of 31.7cm2, so 2 of them have an area of 63.4cm2. thats a slight difference. if you are going to run twin exhausts you won't want to go twin 3". you are only pushing 1.5L per side. i'd say that twin 2.5 would do the job for 260kw. he should get the cats and possibly dump pipes done while he is at it, because there is no way that he will get 260kw with the stock items.

would any of them affect compression?

squashing the top of the bov won't do a thing to boost pressure. it will mean that it doesn't leak as much (if it was leaking before) and that it will flutter slightly. plus if you are running higher boost it won't vent as well as stock because you are actually limiting the amount of travel it has. and doing that mod to the wastegate won't work either. by squashing the front of the wastegate you may actually open the wastegate slightly. the spring in the wastegate is at the back of it. so in short, that guy you were talking to is a complete wanker. the hi boost mod has been done by many people on here succesfully.

no, extractors are just oversised headers. turbo skylines can still have them. it is just an aftermarket manifold. it won't really change your sound much as thet are before the turbo and the turbo is what makes it quieter in the first place.

if you want more noise you could go a screamer pipe, but on the stock turbo it can leak a bit, and will only make it louder when it comes on boost. and is rather illegal. but do you really want extra attention from police, with the increasingly strict laws that keep bringing in?

you won't hear a high pitch noise since it only looks like it has the plumback attachment. to get the whistle you need the trumpet attatchment that has the little holes cut it in. they are what give it the noise.

dyno is always better becuase you can go the full way to redline without having to worry about traffic and slowing down. as for tuning you want to keep the AFR's at about 12.0:1 on a turbo car (leaner on a NA). and you want as much timing as possible before it pings. to start out with you basically just do trial and error, basing it off the initial map to get where you want. if you are just learning you make small changes till you learn how much of an effect the changes have, then you can make educated guesses. but you still need to know the principles of everything though.

also you should know that under the new qld laws you can't legally drive this car untill you have your opens, so don't be supprised if you get booked.

it may be that your idle control valve is slowing getting blocked. what ecu are you running? is it the turbo ecu or the NA?

i installed an 040 in ucd15r33's 33 a few weeks back. if i had had all the tools handy (instead of waiting for people to go to peoples places and get them) i could've done it in about half an hour. the only bit i had to cut was the base of the L shaped bracket, and in the end i ended up bending it back and fowards till it broke cause i got sick of waiting for someone to find me a saw. i didn't have to cut the hose (the metal one at the top of the bracket). i just butted the top of the pump up against it and had the stock bit of fuel hose over them. as for the base of the pump, i had the base of the bracket lined up with the writing on the pump (about an inch from the bottom of the pump). this lets it sit down nice and far. dan has had the fuel gauge down to the top of the letter E without any surging issues. and it isn't noisey at all. you can't hear it when you are driving.

turbo cars will never be as loud as a N/A car. 3" on a N/A would be massivly louder than on a turbo. you have 2 options firstly (and this should be done anyway) get a highflow cat and new dump pipe. this will make it a touch louder. secondly you could cut out the centre muffler. this will add a bit more bark to it.