mad082

i don't think it is the right name for what happens either. that's why i just normally refer to it as boost cut.

here is the pic of the guts of the cat as you can see, the rear honeycomb is blocking most of the airflow

the turbo may pop, it may not. i was running 14psi for ages with no troubles. even in summer. the engine will be fine unless bits of the turbo get in there.

that is rich and retard. the ecu reads a load point at that rpm that it either doesn't have mapping for, or is in what it classes as unsafe so it dumps in a heap of fuel and retards the timing. i know of other members on this forum that have had it happen. and it only happens once the air flow increases. and i can happen at low rpm but then if you go up in the rpm a bit and stab it it won't do it. i used to be able to get it to do it at the same rpm every time on all sorts of roads.

just putting blue bulbs in makes the dash really hard to see. been there, done that. the EL dash is a different story.

then you could give it stitches with zip ties

this is the stock ecu protecting the engine and turbo. the emanage is only a piggyback system, so it doesn't override the stock ecu 100%. there is a function in the emanage ultimate to help with this, but i'm not sure if it is in the emanage blue.

you are getting rich and retard. there are just too many people who have read about it and never experienced it to know what it actually feels like. i had this with my 33. it is like someone turning the key off then back on. as for injectors, i'm pretty sure the gtr injectors are top feed and r33 ones are side feed so they won't fit.

if he has stock ecu he can't tune it without some sort of piggyback system.

imagine the bubbles you could blow at 100kmh with a few litres of bubble blowing solution

fitting a bigger intercooler should only mean a fraction more lag while it fills up the larger volume piping, but once it is boosted up it should be flowing as much air, if not more, unless the cooler is poor quality. you are showing this by the fact that rich and retard is kicking in 2psi less. i would check that a joiner hasn't half popped off. as as nismoid said, if you can fry 265's on a basically stock car, those tyres are extremely crap, and your suspension needs work.

i have installed an ebay one, as well as driven with it. depending on what one it is, you may need to get new bolts for it because the ones they send you are just too short. since you have to clamp it all together with them they need to be longer than they are. as for driving with it, it is ok, but i think i prefer the normal length. if you have any trouble getting gears with the normal length then you will have more trouble with the short shifter.

i would invest in an aftermarket one to make sure it's all working properly.

also, the coils are miss firing, but as the boost drops they come good again. i was thinking that may cause a bit of a drop in boost as well. i will post the dyno graph up on monday. it has the boost pressure logged on it.

greddy type r i think. i don't know how stiff it is set though.

if the cat is blocked the boost won't continue to rise. the air in the system will back up so the turbo won't be spining as fast. that is why people get a boost increase when they put a turbo back exhaust on.

no it is only a bellmouth dump pipe, but i know people making just under 250kw with the same dump pipe.

if it is the stock plastic one it should be fine unless you are hitting them at 150km/h. if it is an aftermarket bar then you may want to change it. i took my fibreglass bar in a few motorkanas and it survived ok, but i didn't really hit any cones. what did damage it though was when i let a mates missus drive it and she went off the side of the skidpan and through some deep mud, but that only put a few inch long cracks in it..... but then i did add a heap more glass to it to make it stronger before i put it on. some of the cheap crappy ones out there i'm suprised don't crack just by driving down the highway at 100kmh.

yeah either go rwd rb26, or sell you car and buy a gtr.

no hadn't thought of that.once we have a look at the cat we might have another run and try and restrict how far the wastegate can move to see if that makes a difference.

yesterday we stuck my mates 33 on the dyno. it has a fmic, turbo back exhaust, pod and a 3076r (IW, 0.63a/r). we were tunning the boost controller at 16 psi and it made 290hp but it was bleeding off boost back to 12psi at redline. it was making max power at 14psi at about 5500 rpm. we thought it may have been the boost controller so we disconnected the hose to the wastegate to run open boost. no real change. it went up to about 18psi but then bled off back down to 12psi and there was about 1hp difference in power. now we know there is a restriction but we aren't sure where. we know the cat is a bit screwed, but not sure how bad and it is on the 'to do' list. i'm also thinking it may be the fmic as i don't think it flows very well. it uses the stock piping but the core doesn't seem to be that good IMO. the air comes in the top (from the side) then has to do a 90 degree turn into the core, then has to do another 90 degree turn at the bottom to exit out the same side it came in. i think a cross flowing cooler would be an improvement. we are going to put a boost line in before the cooler to measure the difference in boost pressure between the 2 sides. we know it isn't the pod, because we took that off and lost nearly 10hp, but i think that was more to do with heatsoak. so any ideas you have would be welcome.

where are you located?

yeah the start has to be the launch control rpm. i should've been a bit clearer earlier. how does the limiter go at -15? as for being 500 rpm over, have you done some data logging to see what rpm the ecu is registering when it cuts? it may be that your tacho is out slightly, and that it is also bouncing up to 4000rpm and the needle is staying up there. i know a guy with a 32 and his tacho and rsm are both about 2000rpm out at redline from the pfc. the pfc has the revlimit set to 7500 and both the tacho and rsm show closer to 9000rpm when it hits it.

something you also have to take into account is general running costs. the honda won't be too bad cause it should be light on fuel, you don't have to run premium, insurance should be cheaper, etc. also if you go the honda you are less likely to get the modification bug, as there is little you can do to really get them going. and the mods you do don't really require other mods, unlike a gtr if you go bigger turbos then you really need to go aftermarket ecu, etc and it is just a trickle down effect. 1 mod leads to another mod needed to be made, etc.

if you are on the stock turbo i doubt you are maxing out the afm, so i don't think you would need the z32. however if you plan to upgrade the turbo down the track then you could just get it when you do that, since it would need to be retuned then anyway. and you will be pushing it to get 220kw with the stock turbo at 13psi, let alone 11psi.