mad082

bits of the compressor wheel can break off and get into the engine. justin911 had the butterfly in his throttlebody get wedged open by a bit of his compressor wheel.

what sort of boost controller is it? electronic ones usually read from the vaccum hose going to the fuel pressure reg. manual ones are best not to have vaccum. i had mine running from the bov hose after my fmic install and i got pretty bad spiking. i moved it to before the cooler and all was good. also running your gauge from there means you know exactly how much boost the turbo is producing. if you run it from after the cooler you may be seeing 1 or 2 psi less than what the turbo is actually producing, depending on how restrictive your cooler is. but if you want it to read vaccum you will have to run the gauge off the plenum.

i'd say it is either the joiner where the piping goes through the hole to the inner gaurd, or where it goes into the cooler.

as security said go the 30/25. otherwise go a 25. it will be more expensive but will be a lot more responsive than a built 20. the 20's are laggier than the 25 in stock form so if you were to go a bigger turbo on a 20 you would make more power than a 25 but it would be MUCH laggier.

a bandaid fix for it is to get new spark plugs.

you may have stuffed coils or you may need new spark plugs, or both. what you have is a missfire. how old are your spark plugs, what heat range and gap are they?

did you only get an emanage, not an emanage ultimate? i don't know about the blue version but the ultimate has a function to eliminate 'boost cut'. although it may not have been tuned in. some piggybacks won't have that function though. what do you mean by cutting out? is it just missfiring or does the power cut out then kick back in? if it is just missfiring then get new plugs and coils

also if you are reading boost from before the intercooler and the dyno if from after the cooler then you will get a difference there, since the cooler will add some restriction.

most times they are talking about the gts-t/gtt

the cat could be the problem, but the boost doesn't seem to taper of much as the rpm rises. after 5600rpm it doesn't really drop much.

nah thats more of an sliding motion than a push/pull

it could be the stock actuator, it could be a restriction caused by the intercooler, the dump pipe, the cat or a muffler. some intercoolers, dump pipes, mufflers, cats flow better than others, but it does just seem to flatten out at about 14psi from 5600 onwards so it may be be in the settings of the controller. it only holds 16psi for for 100 or 200rpm.

you have just discovered the true meaning of 'RB'. 'Runs Bearings'

this shows the difference in distance travelled by shortening the top half. they still go the same angle, but just take a shorter distance to get there. the short shifters you buy reduce the angle you have to move, but don't alter the length of the shifter, so it has the same affect. if you were to make a shifter with the same ratio of bottom half to top half as a standard short shift, but had it twice the length (bottom half twise the length and top half twice the length) you would still only move it the same distance as the shorter one. the angle would be much less but the distance would be the same because it is the same ratio.

it won't really damage your turbo . yes your turbo will spin faster to try and keep up with the air, but the ecu will be making the car run richer so the exhaust temps will be colder, which is good for the stock turbo.

pfc alone would solve the problem. z32 isn't necessary.

what are you laughing about?

yep, my bad

you can have either side of the cooler be the hot or cold side. usually you make the cold side take the shortest path.

well it is a rb20, so there is the first problem, LOL. i assume you are running a manual boost controller? if yes, then there is the cause of the boost drop. the afr's could be a fair bit leaner. they are close to 11 but could be up around 12. it also depends on how much timing they put into the car, what compression you are running (how strong your motor is), etc.

the ones i used were just a normal t3 LED, like what you would use as a park light, which probably didn't help. but i have used the blue silicone covers on bulbs as well and found that blue is always the hardest to see. but yours look pretty cool. i also love the look of the xr falcon blue dash lights.

yes it will. it is pure physics. shortening the top half of the shifter and leaving the bottom half the same will have a similar affect to leaving the top half the same and lengthening the bottom half. if the ratio of above the pivot point to below the pivot point is the same with the cut down one as the short shifter, the exact same result will be achieved.

the other 2 wires are just for the heater and i don't think they make a difference.

that is the knock sensors doing their job. as far as i know they just reatrd the timing, not add more fuel. but what you are getting isn't boost pressure related as such. since you can have it happen at 3000rpm but then keep your foot into it and not have it happen at 5000rpm on the same boost, so it is still based off the afm. even if you disconnect the factory map sensor (that control the factory gauge) it will still do it.

that is the cheap and easy way to do it.