mad082

to keep the car cooler during the day. it lowers the temp insdie the car so i could get wider tyres so i get more traction so i could get as much air as possible into the engine

you sure that didn't include buying it? and i think half of that price would've been the installation. install it yourself then drive somewhere and get it tuned. get prices for just tune only and the price will drop a fair bit.

all the austalian rally cars use them.... well the ones without anti-lag. i went to a round of rally australia and was standing on a corner and most of the lancers and wrxs had bovs. the focus didn't but that's cause it's natro, lol.

you ever driven a focus? i have. you come up to a corner, go to indicate and next thing you know you have turned the wipers on

yeah that is a type m thing

i also agree with turbox. if you walk in with an armful of parts they will charge you more in labour than if you had let them get them for you. also if you have a problem with a part that isn't caused by their installing it wrong you have to go where you bought it and the workshop may charge you to remove the old one and fit the new one, which i see is fair since they shouldn't have to do work for free if all they did was fit something you bought elsewhere. as for the price of parts through the workshop, more often than not they are charging you retail price for it. they buy it at trade price and then put their mark-up on it which brings it up to retail. companies like nengun don't carry the stuff in stock, they just order straight from the supplier and have it sent to you, so they don't have to worry about paying big rent, insurance and other overheads that a workshop has, and they work off a quantity bassis. the more they can sell the cheaper they can have the prices to get the same profit.

that comes down to the temp of the warm/cold water, and the temp of where they are freezing it. i saw it on a program at school where they were in greenland or somewhere freezing like that and they could throw hot water in the air out of a saucepan and it was ice by the time they hit the ground but the normal water wasn't. it is called the Mpemba Effect. and it is only under the right circumstances that it actually happens. but what people also don't take into account is that the cold water may have a frozen layer first but it may not be 100% frozen. it may still have liquid in the centre.

probably cost about 2k. trying to find a cheap manual box is hard. most wreckers want about $1300 for one. then you have to get a pedal box, tailshaft, clutch, flywheel (all dependent on how much you get with the box)

not sure about other states but i know that in places in qld the default speed limit is set to 50kmh unless signed otherwise. for example, here in gympie main roads are signed 60, the rest are default at 50kmh even though they are not signed at 50kmh. the only time it has to be signed as 50 is if a 60kmh road becomes a 50kmh road

it used to be 10%, but now it is only 3kmh. they get more money this way. but it is a good idea to get your speedo error checked if you are on a dyno. that way you atleast know how far it is out and can take that into consideration. some places will also adjust it for you.

yeah i would take the mazda or ford over the astra. i don't like the styling. but both the ford and the holden have the issue of the wiper and indicator stalks being on the opposite sides, which pisses me off no end.

yeah, you will get heat coming from the turbo, and the longer you stay on the throttle the more you get. on a track with lots of straights and fewer corners you would notice it alot more than a tight track where you are on and off the throttle more often. i will admit that on a racetrack you need all the help you can get, but for everyday street use there isn't much point

that's cause evey man and his dog with an evo or wrx will rape it for a year or 2 then sell it before something breaks, like the gearbox, which they seem to be really good at breaking. i know a wrx that is on it's 3rd box. wrx's and xr6t's are 2 cars i wouldn't own second hand, unless the first owner was an old fart.

but if the temp going into the pod is 10 degrees higher i bet it won't be 10 degrees higher after the cooler. i bet it will be less than 10 degrees higher. also, if you have a stock bov, it will be recirculating cooled air at idle, so that will keep your intake temps down and help with heatsoak. heatsoak is just caused by heat radiating from the engine and radiator into the intercooler

you will get heaksoak with or without a cai feed, as the act of compressing the air heats it up. i have been trying to find out what happens to the temp of air when it is compressed while the air is hot or cold but i can't find any info about it. it may be like water where hot water cools/freezes quicker than warm water. if you have a good intercooler then it should be working well enough to compensate for any difference in intake temps.

you go in a straight line. you don't need that much visibility. there are drag cars out there worse than that. some they sit almost directly behind the motor ontop of the gearbox.

yeah i had that in my box, and i have a stup like that in the missus pulsar.

it shouldn't do it after 1 drive. i know people who have driven round for over a yeah with a skyline pinging its arse off and it's still going.

those prices were just off carsales. they don't include dealer charges etc. they are just rrp of the vehicle

if you are going to make one don't make it air tight other than a single feed as you will choke the engine at high rpm. i made one up for my 33 and it wasn't all that well sealed, but with the lid on it felt like it was struggling up top. when i took the lid off and let more air (even though it was hot) get to the filter it felt much stronger. it was just choking. yes i was getting cold air, but at high rpm the box was to restrictive and i'd say i probably lost top end power from it while the lid was on.

rally and race cars run them because most good ones can vent much more air than a plumback, but for street use where a split second here and there doesn't make a difference, and where you aren't running huge amounts of boost it doesn't really matter. if you are worried about lag on gear changes just don't lift of the throttle. depends on how quickly you change gears. if you shift like a granny there will be as the turbo will have slowed down a fair bit. on skylines there isn't much point changing as the stock one is pretty good. the stock one on s13 silvias and 180's on the other hand is crap. it doesn't work well at all and an atmo bov will make it a lot less laggy on gear changes. i noticed a huge difference when i put one on my old 180. but then i have also driven a 180 with a cheap shit bov and it was no better than stock.

xr5 = $37,000 evo = $57,000 sti = $57,000 i class 20k as a bit more than just 'a bit more'

cause we all know that drag cars are known for having great visibility for the driver.

no, nothing special. my old vx commodore could spin a pair of 245's in second and it was a stock v6. and my mates stock 5.0L vn wagon will fry the tyres in 3rd at 130kmh. why 3rd? second in an auto isn't equal to third in a manual. but with 200rwkw i could do a skid on the spot starting in 2nd, and then click it up to 3rd. or i could go along at about 40kmh in second, heel/toe the brake and the accelerator and kick the clutch and get the tyres frying then grab 3rd. hell even the missus has had her pulsar bagging up 3rd gear (it's amazing what women can do when you piss them off enough) you can also get a manual to be on boost on the spot if you know how too. you load it up on the handbrake.

yeah it is only the electronic on that is 700. and running a plumback bov is better because the air that is getting plumed back in has been through the intercooler and is nice and cold.