mad082

i assume your new afm is a z32, so unless you have an aftermarket ecu or piggyback ecu, wiring in that afm will make the car run like crap.

290kmh, my arse.

what mph are you crossing the line at? and was it 121hp or kw, cause i don't think you could do it with 123hp, even if you had drag slicks. if it was 121kw then i could believe it since i managed a 14.8 out of a magna with a 60ft time 0.187 slower than you. if i got a 2.0 60ft i'd be somewhere round the 14.5 mark. i also notice that the dyno run you have posted says in the description that you say the car has a blocked cat, so if it does, what does it run without the blocked cat?

all you can really do is adjust how the pedal sits. because they are a hydrolic clutch you don't have the adjustment that a cable clutch does. there is a small amount of adjustment on the pedal, but that is all.

there is a guy with a fully worked NA magna that makes around 300hp and runs low 13's, then there was a twin turbo one making 350kw that ran low 12's. i'd like to get a set of semi slicks to try. oh, and i was passing at around 93mph

don't have the car anymore.

yeah it's a 99 model with the 3.5L. the earlier ones had a 3.0L, but even some of them are nudging into the 14 second bracket. the autos are only getting to the low 15's. i ran my 14.84 in full street spec, except for a different set of tyres (i still had spare in the boot, and the trolley jack on the floor in the back). the tyres were 15" 205/50 retreads. i'd love to be able to get a 2.0 60 foot, but i don't think i will without better tyres. it's hard to get of the line and you have to take it easy when you grab second as well cause it will light up if you punch it straight away. if it was rwd i reakon i could easily get a 14.5 or faster. i am going to spend a bit of time on the dyno fiddling with stuff to try to get more power. i will drop the exhaust off after the middle muffler and see if i gain any power, make up a cold air intake, put a k&n panel filter in, etc, then take it down for another run.

i don't know about 7 days, but high octane fuel does go stale quicker than low octane fuel. a bit like the way boiling water freezes quicker than warm water.

i went to my local locksmith and they cut me a new key for about $2. didn't work very well cause the key he was cutting it off was a bit worn so he just kept filing it till it worked. he also said to get the lock number off the lock in the door and he could cut me a good key for it.

i ran a 14.84 in my magna at willowbank with just a cat back exhaust. trying to launch a fwd sux. my best 60ft time was a 2.187. i got the slip kicking round here somewhere. i'd like to be the quickest NA magna in qld, but i have to get down to 14.4 to claim the title.

the auto will still run with the pfc, it just won't be quiet as smooth on the gearchanges. most people who are ignorant and just hop in and drive probably wouldn't even notice.

what car?

but on the other hand, other people need them to make 200kw. it just depends on what condition your coils are in.

the best curve i have seen was on a stock ecu on my last magna. it was perfect. no spikes, nothing.

you'd be able to tell if it was a spark issue by listening to/watching the car on the dyno. it will missfire like crazy and blow a heap of unburnt fuel out the exhaust.

but at full noise in 2nd gear it should be making more than 120kw (closer to 195kw), and the boost should drop off as there wouldn't be as much load. i still reakon it is a spark issue.

could also be coils breaking down. ucd15r33's dyno sheet looked like that and he has a remapped ecu and a emanage. his car was missfiring and there was a coresponding drop in power, then it came good and boosted up again. i will post the graph of it soon.

my guess is that your coils or plugs aren't coping with the boost and it is missfiring, then coming good up top. what gap are the new plugs, and what sort are they? when i get a hold of ucd15r33's dyno graph i will post it. it did the same thing. there is a big dip in i where it misfired then came good, and his doesn't have rich and retard.

how old are your spark plugs? what boost are you running? it sounds like a spark/coilpack issue.

i know someone with one for sale for a 33, but it doesn't come with a hand controller. not sure how much he wants for it. it has been used.

what you have to take into account is that the aussie distributer is paying for them, pluss the freight to get them here (unless they are made here), then putting their mark-up on them. then the retailer buys them, pays some freight as well and puts their markup on them. plus you would have to take into account the cost for you to import them, then have them freighted to your place. i'd say it would come out to be a lot more that $220 a tire unless you were doing it on a mass scale. and then if you were planning on doing that you would have to make sure that the companies that currently bring them in don't have an agreement with the head company to be the only importer. if they do and you try to sell them then you could be fined by the company, and you would end up with a heap of tyres that you can't do anything with except use them yourself. you can't even give them away. there was a big shit fight in the bike industry a little while ago where a shoe company made a limited edition shoe with a bike brand and the bike brand brought in thousands of these shoes only to find out that the company who sold the shoe brand had exclusive rights to sell that brand in australia.

problem wouldn't be solved. it would still be a rb20

ask ucd15r33 about the spun bearing in his ute. i posted a pic of the result in the general discussion forum. he drove it for a few days, did some skids, rev the ring out of it, then it let go on his way home and threw a leg out the side of the block. still did a skid on 3 cylinders though.

you may have to get the reo reinforced to make up for the bits cut out. i know my mate had to get his strengthened cause the cops told him to.

i didn't understand it either, but it happened to justin911 at the drags.