mad082

yeah that is just cause they are a 4cyl. the stock rb25 ones would get you to 250kw put they would be close to maxing out. the s15 ones are bigger so they should still be pretty safe at 250kw.

this is kind of like asking whether you want soup of pizza for tea. they are 2 completely different cars. it really comes down to what you want. if you want performance then go the gtr, if you want a reliable daily driver that is very comfy and is 'zippy' then go the honda. if you want something that you can waste people in the traffic light grand prix then go the gtr. if you drive over rough roads and hate rough rides go the honda. just remember that the honda is fwd, so if you have never driven a fwd with a bit of power in the wet then don't boot it halfway through a corner and expect it to keep turning as sharply as it was, and don't try to pull out into that small gap in traffic in the wet either cause you will just sit on the spot and spin. i have a magna, so i know all about understeer and wheelspin when trying to beat traffic.

this wouldn't happen to be one of sk's ones would it? i'd be worried. that is a bloody long time to wait, no matter what excuses are used (unless he is dead). i could take one to my local engine builder and have it done in 2 weeks.

it will run like balls until you get it remapped. once you have had the remap done it should run fine. otherwise get a safc and set it up to run the z32 afm and it will run fine straight away, but for the money spent it would be better to get the remap. and what is your reasoning for getting it? it is still the same size as the stock one, it just has more resolution, so unless you are maxing the stock one out you will not gain anything with it untill you max out the stock one.

i have seen a few different skyline variations. i think there is a sky-via which was a silvia with a 32 front end, and there was something with a 180 and a r33, but i can't remember which wasy it was. i have pics on my other computer. there is also a fat s15 with r34 tails lights. it looks pretty tough.

i don't like how the lights sit so far back in. it might look better in a different colour and all finished properly.

http://www.j-spec.com.au/list/index.php?ID=10525 bit on the ugly side.

how many cars can get over 400hp with the standard turbo (without needing to highflow it) that don't cost over $100,000

holden are 5 x 120

i have played around with it a little bit, but not with vehicle speed. just sitting there reving it. i haven't actually set it up and tried to launch off it either. and i haven't plaid with the ignition adjust of it either. it does bounce a bit when you hit it, but possibly altering the ignition timing may get it ro rev a bit more smoothly may help it hold the revs a bit more steady.

well you would probably have to re-wire most of the ecu. then if things like injectors are different size then that will mess with how well it runs, as will the afm, as will the fact that 1 is a 3.0L and one is a 2.5L so the amount of air and fuel that each uses at idle (and the whole way through the rev range) will be different. so in short, it could be a lot of work only to find that the car won't run.

i bet wade watson would say that the magna was also doing skids till it's rear tyres blew.

if you are going to actually have a decent crack at drifting you will want atleast 16's on the rear. high profile tyres aren't that good for sliding. there is too much flex in the sidewall. just get a set of 16's or 17's to run all round. tyres for them are getting pretty cheap now.

what i meant was the light is probably triggered by the knock sensor, but the knock sensor may be picking up a noise caused by something else rather than detonation. it may just be loud enough at high rpm for the knock sensor to register it. it is more than likely knock, but there is always the chance it is a false knock.

i can't see how it would alter anything except how much air it can flow. i am assuming you are talking about external gates? i don't think it could alter response from off boost to on boost since they would both be shut anyway as soon as the boost drops below what they are set at. so when you lift off on gear changes they would both close.

i was more talking distance than how dark they were.

that depends on tyres though. some tyres leave more marks than others.

it also may not actually be knock that it is registering, it may be engine noise that is setting it off.

i think they need to lower that age by about 25 years. i think they should also bring in an old person plate like P plates. but there are a lot of old people out there on the roads that shouldn't be. getting them off the road might not reduce the road toll by much, but it will save insurance companies millions of dollars a year. i bet old people make up a large amount of minor crashes/fender benders.

or just go to the drags and show them what little rice burners can do.

i think the bang he heard was probably the 2 cars hitting. but that vr/vs left some nice lock-up marks

also the people who slow down to have a sticky-beak at an accident as they drive past. then they take their eyes off the road and slam up the back of the person in front of them that is doing the same thing. or they just slow down the rest of the traffic and you end up with traffic backed up for ages simply because some people want to have a good old look at a crash. admittedly i will slow down to have a look if there isn't much traffic, but if i have a heap of cars behind me i will keep going at normal speed.

if it was a narrow road and they had a huge amount of traffic backed up behind them then they could be booked for dangerous driving or something like that. they are causing road rage, and then people would be trying to overtake, and you may get someone 10 cars back try to overtake a whole lot of cars and then get past 5 and have a car come the other way and he has to take evasive action. but if you are unable, or not confident enough to drive at the limit then you are a dangerous driver. you would end up possibly causing accidents and road rage. it is the same with people who take for ever at intersections they wait for ages till there is a huge gap because they don't want to try to fit into a normal sized gap because they are too scared. and then everyone behind them gets impatient and takes more risks because they are angry/frustrated and doesn't want to be stuck there even longer.

you have to use the launch control setting of the ignition cut. i don't have the software on this computer so i can open it up to tell you the exact bit, but under the ignition tab of the settings there is a box where you can set the rpm you want to to run, and the throttle % you want it to work from. i think standard it is set at 50% throttle, so you have to have 50% throttle and be not moving before it works. if you only go to 49% throttle it will rev up to redline. but then it is also setup standard that the moment it registers that you are moving it will rev to redline. you can set this so that it will keep the revs at the set level untill you are moving a bit faster. there is a speed signal box near it where you input the number for it to go from launch to normal.

no you are forgetting the hand brake. i know that whenever i want to stop in a hurry i don't touch the brakes i just reef on the handbrake, cause having 10mm wider tyres on the back, and all the weight on the front tyres works way better then using all 4 tyres and having the bias on the front. but the cops could simply walk up to the cars and look at the tyres to see if they are flat or not.