mad082

the other thing you have to take into account is that when you look at the specs on paper you see 1/4 mile and 0-100kmh specs. is this a true indication of which is quicker on a track? no. the gtr has 4wd so its 1/4 mile and 0-100 times are always going to be better. so a good set of tyres on the supra would just make it even. but it showed that in a straight line they are pretty much even, if not a little bit leaning towards the supra. another good thing about the supra is that it has a square motor. 86mm x 86mm bore/stroke. the skyline motors are far from square. a square motor gives you a good combination of power and torque. and even the stroker kits for the rb26 don't make it square. they still have a shorter stroke than the 2jz, so they will rev higher, but not make as much torque.

what would the knock sensor settings be for the stock r33 knock sensors?

so because that picture was taken in 1989 and the 33's and 34 weren't made, that makes them not godzilla? the 33's and 34's are still a gtr. so they are still a godzilla. it is like the new beetles. they still get called bugs.

i think the stock time quoted for the supra is 13.0 and the r34 gtt is low 14, so the supra would hose it. i got one. 99 model executive, 100% stock manual with just a cat back exhaust and ran a 14.84 on my first outing. 60ft time of 2.18 on 15 x 205 tyres.

there are r34 owners who call r33's boats even though the r34 is heavier.

depending on what state you are in it may not even be legal for him to drive it (if he is on his p's). putting the lower actuator on will lower the boost, however it won't take it down to 5psi. exhaust and intake mods will bump it up a bit.

in the missus pulsar (natro sr20) i am getting 10.5L/100kms from shell 95 unleaded. that is town driving, and mostly cold start enrichment. i only live about 5 mins from work so it comes up to full temp about 1km from work. and it is rather hilly where i live. when i was running it on woolies fuel and fanging it a bit more i was getting about 12.5L/100kms. if i fang in on the 95 i get about 11.5L/100kms. but now my local shell got rid of the 95 stuff to get e10 and i'm not sure about running it. i just don't want it to pings it's arse off cause i have wound some more timing into it.

i know in qld you can drive your car in to get a roadworty, but first you must go to the dept of transport and get all the stuff sorted. i think it is ctp that you have to get. i haven't done it but the fella i used to work with did it a few times cause he lived out of town. he went to the dept of transport, did all the stuff he had to to temporarily drive an unregistered vehicle. i'm pretty sure it only gave you 24 hour period in which to do it.

if they are the wrong heat range then they could.

if you want to remove it for airflow reasons, just take the mesh out of the front of it.

exactly. and you have to take into account differences in bore vs stroke. most v8's are made to be long stroke motors to give more torque, not high revving high hp motors.

once it is tuned you can take out the afm, provided it is tuned to run without it. you would still want to keep the filter though. sucking dirt into the motor isn't a good thing.

i have it too. it is a bit of a pain to read though. as for the comment about mechanics flogging the cars, what do you think will happen with the warfies and the compliers. and more often than not the mechanics will take some car because if it breaks they have to fix it. the warfies don't care cause they can just say it was like that when it came off the boat. just find a mature aged mechanic. they rarely flog them.

get rid of the platinum plugs. they are terrible. get coppers (part number bcpr6es) or iridiums. if you get iridiums make sure they are gapped to 0.8mm and heat range 6.

exactly. i highly doubt that a stock bov will be leaking out 7psi of boost (dropping it from 14 to 7). if it was the car would run like absolute arse, cause it would be dumping massive amounts of fuel through. you would use a tank of fuel every 150kms.

in a theoretical wonderland every atmosphere of pressure you put in (using the 1 sized turbo) you double your horsepower. however in the real world this isn't true. also, comparing the rb25de to the det doesn't take into account the compression difference. you would have to compare the power of a rb5de to that of a rb25de+t. and then you could only really compare it to a 5.0L rb motor (if you were to scale up a rb25 so it is 5.0L). to do it any other way is silly. just look at the bmw m3 motors. they put out about 236kw stock and they are a natro 3.2L. if you scale that down, that is about 184kw for 2.5L, so the rb25det is equal to a natro 2.5L.

there was a tiny little bit, but not very much. no where near enough to match the amount of smoke it was blowing.

i haven't actually heard a type s in real life (well i may have, but not know it), but most bovs, without trumpets with flutes in them, will just make the PSSSSSSHHHHH noise.

location can make a small difference to response. you want it as close to the throttle body as possible. this makes it so that when you lift off all the air keeps going in the direction it already was. only the air from the throttle body to the bov has to turn around. if it is close to the turbo then when you lift off all that air after it has to go in the opposite direction it was and then when you step on the gas again it has to change directions again. also by having it after the intercooler, if you step on the gas before all the air has been released you have nice cold air ready and waiting to go into the motor. which is another reason why recirculating bovs are good. all that nice cold air gets directed back into the intake, so you have nice cold air going into the turbo.

yes

well the supra you could reliably get 300kw without having forgies, which means that you can drive it cold without having to worry about damaging the motor. forgies + driving cold can do damage. i reakon that if you were to buy a supra and just bolt a turbo on you would get more power for less money.

it is that if it is the ONLY family vehicle, or if it is an emergency, or if you have to drive it for work (if it is a company car). so if your family has 2 cars then i doubt they will grant you permission. plus you will have to display your p's, so pretty much every cop that sees you will pull you over. besides, you are better of driving a shitter for the first few years, especially if you are going to go to uni.

it isn't an opinion, it is a fact. the bov has NO affect on boost pressue unless it is faulty. i know people with aftermarket bov which have a higher spring tension than stock and it hasn't had any affect on boost. the bov is an open/closed item. if you squash the top of it you are just closing it tighter. it is like closing a car door. once it is closed if you make it close tigher it won't have any affect. just so you know, here is a quick run down of how a bov works. as you boost up you have the boost pressure pushing on the bov from inside the intercooler piping, plus you have the same pressure pushing on the otherside from the little vaccum hose that runs to it. then you also have the spring tension helping it stay shut. now during this the bov is sealed shut (not letting any air through). when you back off and the throttle shuts, this creates a vaccum (negative pressure, so it is sucking) in the manifold. the top half of the bov is affected by this, so combined with the positive pressure in the intercooler piping, this over rides the spring forces the bov open and releases the air. by increasing the strength of the spring you have no affect on the boost pressure while it is boosting up. all it does is mean that it takes more force to open the bov when you lift off. and yes i have infact squashed the top of my bov before, but only to prevent it leaking, and it had NO affect on boost pressure. i also know people that ran no bov. and guess what, when they put bov on it had no affect on boost pressure either. the reason why squashing the bov cannot affect boost pressure is because the wastegate controls boost pressure. as boost pressure rises it pushes on a diaphram in the wastegate. this has a spring behind it the regulates what pressure it opens at. so no matter what you do to the bov it has ABSOLUTELY NO IMPACT on the wastegate. a boost controller on the other hand restricts the amount of air that gets to the wastegate, letting it boost higher. get it through your thick skull. the bov cannot raise boost. if you don't believe me then ring hks in japan, or topsecret and talk to one of their mechanics. they will tell you the exact same thing.

yeah sorry, but you can say it again too. i don't mind.

either way, if i was the guy who paid a shitload for the last monaro and they brought a new one out i'd be suing.