mad082

it sounds like it is set too tight. adjust it to softer. also as uras said, if the bov can't vent the gas fast enough you will get flutter as the air pass back through the turbo.

he just said it is pretty much gone now. i hadn't thought of valve stem seals. it does have a bit of oil coming out out of the breather pipe (has had for a while, since before the turbo install). it isn't constant, but every now and then you will notice some oil around the rocker cover (used to have a split in the catch can hose where it would come out)

if you take the pcv hose off the manifold (when the car isn't running) then blow through the hose you shouldn't be able to blow, but then it you suck it should open and you should get a mouthful of oil fumes (bit nasty). ok, bit of an update. he (ucd12r33) has got the breather pipes breathing again. also it has stopped blowing smoke. it will do it occasionally if he punches it off the line, but no where near as bad as before. also it seems to have burnt off all the excess oil. it seemed to be that as it was burning off oil it went away. i had originally put it down to the fact that he had put about 1L too much oil in and it was sucking excess blowby through the pcv at vacuum. he went and saw a mechanic who thought it might have been the fron seal on the turbo. the turbo is only a few weeks old. but if the seal was gone it shouldn't be getting better. compression is ok (got it tested too). the problem only started when he put too much oil in. and seems to be going away now that it has burnt of some oil.

firstly get rid of the crappy fuel. you may also need to get the injectors cleaned. as far as tuning the stock ecu goes, there is pretty much nothing that can be done.

the lack of power is probably just because it is an rb20. the noise is probably just induction noise. if there was a leak in the exhaust manifold you sometimes hear the exhaust gasket ticking as it moves.

you don't have a turbo so your gains aren't going to be huge. you might pick up 10-15hp if it is tuned properly. but as NA_R33 said, you would have to run it as a wasted spark system.

thats what i couldn't understand. the first link says that it was owned by a car dealer, and doesn't actually say if he was the original owner. but thankfully the second link does. now, how to fake a dna test to say that i am his long lost grandson so i can inherrit the cars in a few years time.........

since you are in gympie i could take it for a spin and see if it is the gearbox or just you. more than likely the box is a bit shagged tho. if it only does it from 1st to 2nd then it is more than likely the sychros. if it is every gear it could be low clutch fluid, damaged pivot bolt or fork, or just a shagged clutch.

which is it? under load or under deceleration? you told me before it was only when you back off.

white is oil. it is also water. it only started doing it imediately after he over filled the oil.

ok, now apparently it only does it when he backs off. not during acceleration.

my mate just over filled the oil in his 33 and now it is blowing smoke. he also changed the PCV valve. would this cause the sudden appearance of the white smoke? also the head is only vented through the pcv. the breather hoses are blocked.

i have some duck callers i could sell you to hook up to your bov.

i had a look at a r33 TB. the xf one i have appears to be the same size, although i haven't measured it to be exact yet. the xf has a slightly bigger mouth i think but the butterfly is about the same.

with the afc you should be able to get to 200kw, but definately not 230kw.

if the o2 sensor is dead then that will cause it not to register on the guage.

do you have an aftermarket boost controller? if you do it is more than likely slightly blocked. it is a common problem with the turbosmart manual boost controllers. what happens is that you boost up and the pressure opens the wastegate. when you lift off the pressure between the controller and the wastegate is supposed to vent ou, but it doesn't, which keeps the actuator open, so when you stomp on the gas again all the air goes out the wastegate instead of spooling up the turbo first.

i would also say CAS, but if that is ok maybe the ignitor or AFM. if it has gone away it may be a bit hard to find the problem.

it really annoys me when people say "i got xxxkms to a tank". how many litres did you use? i can get an extra 50kms out of a tank by driving round for ages with the fuel light on. it doesn't mean i got any better fuel economy. turbo dave: 14L/100km is pretty bad for highway driving. i got 10L/100km out of mine, but it was stock turbo. but then i would get 17L/100km round town. have you tried changing your o2 sensor to see if that helps?

i think you may have the 044 mixed up with the 040.

i will have to pull my finger out and make the 5 min drive out there 1 day. just have to find a skyline to borrow.

last weekend i saw a blue r33 gtr at maccas in gympie on friday night, had nsw or act plates. then on either saturday arvo or sunday arvo i saw a r32 with nsw plates stopped outside melco mitre 10 in gympie. was a gts-t but had a fully sic gtr badge on it.

yeah. set the cams wrong to the crank and you might as well drop a handfull of gravel into the motor. if it is just the base time (motor is all together and running) then you just need a timing light.

+1 my mate has (we are pretty sure) a gutted cat or callapsed cat and his car is filthy on the rear. his afr's are 12.0:1

safc will allow you to go to a z32, but not sure about q45. but a safc will easilly get you 200kw provided you have all the right supporting gear. people have gone over 200kw with them.