mad082

send him a bill for new spark plugs, new side skirts and the labour required to fit the plugs and hook the cooler back up.

i used ngk copper plugs. bcpr6es was the part number. $4 each. i pulled them out after 10,000kms and they hadn't started miss firing yet, and that was running 14psi with stock coils. the plugs i had in there before the coppers were iridiums, i pulled them out at about 20,000kms old cause they were miss firing. and they were gapped at 0.8mm. with iridiums costing about $120 for a set of 6 and coppers costing $24 for a set i will stick with the coppers. just change them at 10,000kms (every second service). and it isn't a case of the service taking any longer than normal, becuase i don't have the coil pack cover on (leave it off so the coil packs don't get as hot) and i can do it without taking off the cooler piping. i just take each coil pack out 1 by 1 and change the plug and put the coil pack back in. and as i said the service doesn't take any longer because i take the oil drain bolt out, do the first few plugs, take the oil filter off, do the last few plugs. by which time the last bit of oil is draining out of the motor so it is time to put the filter on, put the oil and and we are done. it saves sitting around doing nothing waiting for the oil to drain out. also, the thread starter has a non-turbo, so the plugs he should be running will be different to most of us. he may have gotten the plugs for a turbo car, which may be different to what he needs, and that may be the cause of the problem.

there are codes on the sticker of the ecu. if you were to take a pic of the sticker on the cover then post them up people could compare it with theirs.

a full tank is less explosive than an empty tank, however in this car it wouldn't be that much different because the vapour is coming out of the tank. a full tank that had a spark ignite in the boot would burn for much longer, but it might not explode as big. i did it with an empty tank, but i would've done it with a full tank if the car had had a full tank at the time. the only thing is that i was sticking my arm all the way into the tank to make sure that i got the pump down as low as possible, so i would've had an arm covered in fuel if the tank had been full. on a side note, the r33 that i installed an 040 into has no issue with surging with under 1/4 tank left. the owner has got it down to the top of the E (so it was uner the empty line) and still had no issue. also, if you disconect the battery make sure you have the clamps well away from the battery terminals. if they are close and you bump it you may cause a spark. disconnecting the battery isn't always the safest option.

you may gain a very slight amount of power, but that would depend on a few things. if the car isn't hot then the clutch fan isn't fully engaged so it isn't using that much power. on a hot day when the clutch fan is fully engaged you would gain more. but then you would be putting more strain on your alternator. on the down side, on a hot day you may run hotter with the thermo fans, as the clutch fan is better at drawing air than an electric fan, so if your car runs hot already, you may cook it by running thermos.

there will always be a ticking noise coming from the injectors. that is the sound of them firing. but it may be worth to get someone else to look at it to make sure it isn't a death rattle.

have you driven the car in the rain before you discovered the water? i know of a few skylines and 180's that have been fixed from rear end accidents and the seam in the inner guard wasn't sealed up properly so when they drove in the wet the spray off the tyres made it's way into the boot.

i get that bubbling noise in the missus pulsar, and it starts perfectly, so i don't think it would be that. it could be a clogged injector which isn't shutting off 100% so richening the mixtures up. otherwise try cleaning the aac and iac valves to make sure it isn't them.

and if you stuff up things can go pretty wrong. i was asking my mechanic about toluene and he said it is better to stay away from it cause a small mistake can have large consequences.

the stock o2 sensor doesn't really contribute much at wide open throttle anyway. it only affects the mapping at low load.

if your stock pump is dying and leaning the mixtures out slightly you will lose a touch of power by fitting the new fuel pump, but you will also make the car much safer. it is best to stick it on a dyno and see what the afr's are like. if they are rich then there is no need to upgrade the fuel pump untill you start doing bigger mods.

he should put it on the dyno first and see what the afr's are like. if they are lean then go the pump. if they are rich then the pump can wait.

a lot of rims don't come in skinny sizes, and cars like sprinters don't have much room under the guards

nah, you'd have to eat twice as many to get your required nutrients.

all i know is that my mate got a hold of an octane tester, and they were the results. the abbility to run more ignition timing with the shell fuel is because of the ethanol. it burns colder, and less explosive. to get the same sized explosion with ethanol as normal petrol you need to use nearly twice as much. ethanol also takes more spark to ignitite. if you were to run a normal street car tuned for 98 ron fuel on pure ethanol it would run like crap. it would be majorly down on power. the ideal afr for ethanol is around 6:1, and it is much harder to ignite. you would have to advance the timing by over 10 degrees. my mate runs c16 in his drag/street car. when he is running the c16 he advances the timing by 10 degrees.

i'd come out for a look and to meet some members if i wasn't working. (i'm from gympie)

wiggle the harness in the stock ecu. there may be a dodgy wire somewhere. also double check you have all the wires in the right place.

you could always just loosen off the clamps of the piping and sit there for ages moving it round till it doesn't hit the fan.

stick it on the dyno and see what the afr's are like. if they are a bit rich then there is no need for a fuel pump yet as an ecu will lean the afr's out a bit, so take a bit of stress of the fuel pump.

also stretched tyres means you can have a wider rim under the car as it won't hit the guards as easily.

autobarn should be able to get it for you. otherwise you can get a plumback kit for them and then you will have the same sore of sound as the stock.

+1. i just made a template up and marked each blade the same then just nipped them off with a saw. as the picture shows, you only have to take off the back corner.

after you do ecu the next step would be fuel pump. it won't gain you any power, but it is a good preventative measure against it leaning out. then go turbo, and possiby injectors, depending on how big you go with the turbo, and how the stock injectors handle the turbo upgrade.

my mate (ucd15r33) just got a 3076r and it came with all the new hoses and adapters. i think that would be an easier way to go.

i think the adapter he had made was pretty basic. i think they just altered the base on the pipe it comes on. they just cut it off and changed it a bit. i will have to have a closer look.