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mad082

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Everything posted by mad082

  1. the downside i see of putting it in the piping is that if you have a slight leak in the front seal of the turbo you will have to clean the afm every few weeks to make sure it is reading correctly.
  2. i know someone who is putting 1 of these (pretty sure it was this one and not the 480) onto his rb20. he has it all on but is yet to get it tuned. will let you know how it goes. should be better than the t70 that was on there. that didn't boost till 6000rpm.
  3. bcpr6es is the copper code. but the heat range you got is right.
  4. the money spent on coils wouldn't be wasted if you have to run such a small gap at low boost. what heat range and type are the plugs? that may also be a factor in you plug gap. and just because the speedo says it has 60k on it doesn't mean that it is true.
  5. the box can be a bit of a pain to get out. the trans tunnel is a bit tight. so it may help to loosen the engine mounts to allow you to lever the engine to help get the box out. it also helps to roll the box as you take it out and put it back in.
  6. this is a problem that occurs on cars that haven't had any adjustment done. it will just pop up all of a sudden. then you clean the valve and it goes away.
  7. as said, you are incorrect. early sr20 and ca18 had roller breaing.
  8. the sites that give away where speed cameras are located (the mobile ones) are going to be shut down. the government is cracking down on them.
  9. 25 next month
  10. it depends on what is causing it to run lean. i highly doubt it will be the injectors maxing out. they may need cleaning though. your fuel pump may be dying, or you could get an aftermarket ecu. if the problem is the pump or injectors the ecu won't really help much and the problem will just get worse.
  11. the stock ecu can't be tuned. what heat range and gap were the plugs?
  12. and that some people are so far up themselves they are inside out.
  13. well sorry captain keyboard mechanic.
  14. you can just plug into there. i ran my boost gauge from there.
  15. 10k would get you over 250kw out of the rb25 rather easily. you would probably get a rebuilt rb25 to 280kw for cheaper than the cost of putting a rb26 in, and it would be more reliable as you would know exactly the condition of the motor.
  16. compression of 75 is about 50% of what it should be, not 75%.
  17. have you priced a motor yet? if you haven't then you might want to look at the first as it would be a cheaper option to build up a 25. you would get more power for your money.
  18. if your fuel pump can't keep up it will lean out and may ping.
  19. no. carby cleaner cleans carbon deposits it. wd40 is basically just an oil.
  20. we are going to replace the split hose tonight so we will hook a compressor up to it and see if we can find any other leaks.
  21. it can be a bit of a pain to get off. it is situated at the back of the plenum on the drivers side. trying to disconnect the lower hoses is the hard bit. just out of curiosity, has this affected your vacuum vacuum on your boost gauge? is it closer to zero that it used to be?
  22. but the butterfly is shut so the turbo doesn't have any affect. i always thought that for there to be a vacuum leak it had to be after the throttle body. if you hook a vacuum guage up to where the boost controller sits you will never see vacuum since the bov is just releasing the air so it is at atmospheric pressure. there is no vacuum.
  23. i'm pretty sure the rb20 ecu doesn't have rich and retard, so i doub it is that. if you have changed the plugs it more than likely isn't them, but could still be your coils.
  24. i'm pretty sure it's iac, not iaac. but yes, those 2 valves are usually responsible for 90% of the problems like this.
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