mad082

either the wastegate hose isn't hooked up, or it's blocked, or the wastegate is stuffed, or hitting the dump pipe and not opening. the ecu is hitting rich and retard. even though you have a boost cut defender they still have an upper limit where they will still cut out.

the a/f gauge that you are looking at is good for 2 things. 1: flashy lights, 2: checking that you factory o2 sensor is working properly. at low load it should flick back and forth between rich and lean. this means that your o2 sensor is working properly. if it doesn't flicker then it means it is dead and at low load you are wasting fuel. my mate bought a wideband kit from innovate. it was $680, but it works well, can record and plug into a laptop, and can simulate narrowband for factory ecus.

the factory vct switches off at around 4500rpm so you get a bit of a flatspot there. before anyone says that it is rich and retard, that is a violent on/off. and zennon gets it on his r32 and they don't have rich and retard as far as i know.

wind your boost down. you are using more fuel because you are running higher boost. the more air you put in the more fuel that has to go in to keep the afr's the same. you would probably benefit from a tune, but you still won't be able to get the fuel economy of someone running 10psi because they aren't putting as much air past the afm.

bump again

but it is no use to anyone using an emange, because an emanage only alters the stock tuning. the pfc uses all new tuning. if you were to input those values into an emanage you would be extremely out of tune. for example in some areas you would be adjusting the timing by 30 degrees, not setting it to 30 degrees.

can you switch the toggle switches while the car is running, or do you need to turn the car off first?

oh, ok. cause i set that up in the emanage, but didn't know what to do in logworks. i will do that tonight. final question, will the nvcs still work of the stock ecu if the emanage has all the boxes set as off? the car is going on the dyno this arvo, so we will see how we go. it has a IW 3076 (0.64 A/R) at about 12psi so hopefully it should make an ok figure. we are still using the stock afm. the voltage is getting up to 4.9 at full biscuit in 4th, but i think it may be sucking the silicone inlet pipe shut a bit, so i am putting an alloy pipe on before it goes on.

so it will just be trial and error until i get the setting right? and do i set annalogue 1 or 2? and do i have them read as lamba or a/f ratio?

i am having trouble getting the a/f meter working properly through the greddy. firstly i am not sure which wires i am supposed to hook up. we have an innovate lm1 o2 sensor kit, and it's output plug has three wires (red, white and 1 with no casing). the emanage has 2 wires (white and grey). now i found the greddy wiring diagram for it, but the innovate diagram doesn't say what colours the wires are. it just says what the 3 wires are, but doesn't say what colour each one is. also i tried just touching the wires together and i did get a reading of sorts, but it was completely different to the reading on the handset. the handset was reading high 14's (was cruising) and the emanage reading started at 12 and then dropped to 8 and wouldn't move. do i have to change something in the innovate software? also, what nvcs settings are people using? what rpm and load are people having it turn on?

if it is a stock ecu then you can't actually tune it unless you get a remap.

you would have to plug up all the water and oil holes, and then your car will be more gutless than a natro skyline. the turbo cars run lower compression than natro, so it means less power.

with the amount of fuel it is spitting out at the moment, it leaning out won't be an issue. after about 50km of driving the back of the car is noticable darker on the passengers side.

are the skyline ecu's actually self learning? i have never read any factual evidence of the skyline ecu's actually self learning. not ecu's do. and then how much does it learn? it can't lean very much otherwise you wouldn't need aftermarket ecu's. you'd just do the mod, reset the ecu and go for a spin and it would tune itself.

i will be installing a 0.63 a/r housing gcg version 3076r with I/W in the next few days. will let you know how it goes.

cooling the fuel can have a bad effect. mitsubishi magnas have a problem where they get a lean spot after fitting a k&n filter. the solution is to put alloy spacers in the fuel rail to heat the fuel up to get it to atomize better.

well you will be under 300hp, so either will be fine as far as holding boost and being able to release enough air.

since you have a 32 you can just get the stock ecu remapped. it will give you the same pwoer gains as a pfc, you just can't fiddle with it using a handset.

yeah i know. unless it is an auto, and then it's 15 degrees.

ok i read the plugs, this is what they say: "once upon a time there were 3 bears........"

i say stick with your stock pump untill it starts to die, or you decide to do more upgrading. atleast you know it is working. you may get a new pump and it may be faulty straight out of the box, so you would be driving around thinking everything is fine and then end up causing more damage. if you do get a new pump installed i would put it back on the dyno to see if the mixtures have been affected. ucd15r33 put his car on the dyno 2 days after a new fuel pump and the mixtures went from in the 13's to low 10's, so upgrading his pump was a good thing. but if your pump is good and the new one is dodgy it could go the other way.

of course it will run better at 20. i run the missus pulsar at about 21 degrees and it is 15 stock. runs tons better. i ran my gts-t at over 20 and it ran brilliantly.

wrong section dude. take your spam to wasteland.

firstly, how many litres are you talking about? not just full to the empty light on. if you had a faulty sensor you may have had the light coming on while you still had 20L in the tank. but there was obviously something going on if your car was running so rich at idle and low load. do you know if the ecu had been remapped? it may have had closed loop taken out of it, so it only worked off the mapping.

the price of doing it will vary greatly. and it depends on how much performance you want. if you just bolt the turbo on and don't touch the internals then you won't be able to run much boost (about stock boost). if you are wanting to run higher boost, or a bigger than stock turbo to get some performance then you will need to decompress the head.