mad082

unless you block the little recirculation hole with a screw. then it can be run atmo.

there is always going to be some discrepancies between different gauges. essentially they are both reading from the same place. just because the ebc is digital doesn't mean it is mroe correct. the map sensor may not be calibrated 100% correct. but then a needle guage isn't as specific when you read it. it depends on what part of the needle you read from and how well it was calibrated also. i would probably say the ebc though.

also just out of curiosity, what bov are you running? if it is the stock one, do you have it plumbed back into your new intake pipe (from afm to turbo)?

i highly doubt it would be o2 sensor, but easy way to find out is to unplug it. there is no point putting another one in since the car should run whether it is plugged in or not.

what ecu are you using? but it could be air flow meter.

i don't think you will find many 700hp cars that use AFMs.

ca18det engine only = 128kg sr20de engine only = 139kg sr20det engine only = 149kg don't know what accessories are included in those weights.

now feel free to correct me if i am wrong, but if you take it out and just put the power wires onto the terminals of the battery then that should tell you whether the unit will turn on ot not.

i just did a little looking at specs. something else you may want to think about is that the silvia has a slightly wider front track than a 32, has lower and skinnier body (so it MAY have less drag at speed). also 20kg may not seem like a big difference in weight, but in a lower power vehicle it can be enough over a few laps to determine what position you are in.

yeah, as i said that weight was for rb25, not rb20.

or 5.0L and above.

you can remove the afm. you datalog the voltages of the afm and then use the airflow output map rather than the airflow adjustment map, then just adjust your fuel and timing in their individual adjustment maps.

it will more than likely be the fuel pressure reg, unless the pump just happened to be faulty from new.

i have seen a 33 that had it done, but the way that they had set it up added about 1m of extra intercooler piping. they had it after the intercooler (hybrid style) and had the cooler pipe run up the from where it came through from the inner guard, then up to the back of the engine bay (the afm was in this section of piping) then a big loop around the back of the plenum befofe going into the plenum.

we found the problem. we reset the emanage and it went away. i don't know what setting it was in the emanage that was causing the fault because the tuning below about 4000rpm hadn't been touched.

sr20 motor and box = 222kg. couldn't find an rb20 weight, but the rb25 motor and box is 303kg. wouldn't it make more sense to run the sr20 in a silvia chassis? they are a lighter car.

i'd say twin 3076r would be a bit on the laggy side. my mate has ONE on his rb25 and it comes on at around 4000.

yes i am aware of that, but when it was all hooked up was the factory solenoid left connect to the hose? if so it will be bleeding off about 2 psi over 4500rpm.

if it was an r33 i would say search the net for a remapped ecu. that will not have rich and retard anymore so you can just tune it like a stand alone. is it the emanage blue or ultimate? if it is the ultimate you could try getting the map sensor for the emanage and disconnecting the afm.

that is the factory map sensor for the boost gauge in the dash.

do you still have the factory solenoid hooked up? if so, that is the problem.

my mate has a 33 with a similar cooler to that, but a bigger and better version. i dislike the design. the air travels in, does a 90 degree turn, travels through the core, does another 90 degree turn then comes out. in my opinion it just slows the air flow down to much. that is why i like the hybrid style coolers. they keep the air flowing in a good direction. no sharp turns inside the cooler. and the apexi and blits ones have a 90 degree bend in them, but it is in the piping, not in the core.

yes the highflow is a good option. EDIT: i just re-read the post, if you only want 40rwkw you could run without a turbo, hehehe.

it kind of just looks like a heatshield. and why does it have turbosmart written on it? if it is actually a carbon intake, that would help in keeping the intake temps down.

that depends on where it is. if the bov is after the afm then you will still have the problem as all the air in the system will go past the afm and make it run rather rich. but you are adding restriction after the turbo so you negate any power increase.