mad082

it is probably your coils aren't able to keep up with the job. try and borrow someones coils and see if that gets rid of it. if it does then you need new coils. also, find out what sort of plugs were used, with what gap and what heat range.

or in the manual you can just keep your foot on the gas when you change gears and there will be no spool time either. and a stock auto will change gears slower than most people can change gears in a manual. on average at the drags (until you get to the much quicker cars) a manual will run much faster than an auto. in standard form it would be nearly half a second. if you can get an auto to spin the wheels by stomping it in drive you could do the same in a manual. but in the manual you don't have to wait for it to make it's mind up about what gear it wants to drop back into. you just put it in a gear and stomp it. auto gearboxes are heavier than manual ones as well. if you want a 10 second car go an auto. if it is going to remain pretty much stock then go manual if you want more fun or auto if it is going to be a daily driver.

i think it is about 7L, but not 100% sure

manual, for the simple fact that the auto has no clutch to kick to get the tail out.

i was thinking it wasn't too bad...... until i saw the dash

what is shuffling?

they are too much of a lag-monster for my liking. even in stock form.

i don't know much about them but i would say that it is to make it so that both turbos are working the same. if you have 1 cylinder that is working a bit less that the others then the turbo on that cylinder will be spinning slower than the turbo on the other 3 cylinders. that's my guess, but i admit i could be WAY off the mark with this one.

trying to find a good 3" resonator is hard. most are too skinny through the body. just get a 3" off centre-centre oval muffler put in the middle, then a either a straight through 3" oval muffler on the rear, or a 2nd off centre-centre muffler for the rear.

well i think it was 666dan found that the bellmouth dump pipe solved his boost spiking issue.

oh ok. i had a series 1.5, so it had the series 2 afm, and i try not to associate with rb20's, LOL just kidding.

you will soon get used to people saying "nice car..... does it come in mens?"

there are too many variables. it depends on model commodore/falcon as a vn/vp is much lighter than a vt/vx (infact they are about the same weight as a r32), but then the vx will put out about 30-40hp more on a dyno. if it was standard manual ea falcon (s-pac) vs manual vp commodore, vs manual rb20de, i would say the order would be probably falcon, commodore, skyline. i used to own a manual s-pac ea falcon and they don't actually go that bad. i did it with those models as they are all about the same age. if you were to change that scenario to late model cars, and add in a magna then the order would change slightly. the order would be something like: magna, falcon, skyline, commodore

but his has 5 wires, not 4, so i doubt it is a skyline afm, in which case it will more than likely not work with the stock ecu. if it is that he just can't count and it only has 4 wires, then i agree with you cubes that it will work just fine.

that is because the people who are stupid enough to get their cars crushed are stupid enough to think they did nothing wrong and it isn't their fault and not fair.

the next step is turbo, ecu and injectors (depending on size of turbo/turbos). fuel pump would also depend on what condition the stock one is in. it would probably be a good idea to upgrade it though. you won't gain any power from it, but you may gain engine life.

at the front of the plenum there is a 10mm bolt that goes into a little tube with a bracket with japanese writing next to it and it should say in english "never open when hot"

yup

well it isn't that different to the permanent confiscation laws we already have, except that the offenders car get crushed rather than sold. and as it is the court decides if the car gets permanently confiscated or not. they take into account whether money is owed on the car, etc, cause otherwise the banks would lose a shit load of money cause people who lost their cars permanently would just stop making payments and then the bank can't reposess the car, so they lose out.

some cars are just like that. sr20's take longer to start than some cars. it is probably to do with the strength of the starter motor. if it is a bit weak then it it isn't spinning the motor fast enough to start straight away. but the choke is controlled by the ecu. it has a cold start enrichment. when the ecu gets power it registers the water temp and adjusts the amount of fuel to put in. if it is working it should idle a bit high when cold than hot.

i was just coming back to say that, but not quite as bluntly. i was going to say it is a good hairdressers car. the only guys i know with mr2's are either gay/bi or love themselves a lot.

i'm not sure about the sr, but i know with the skyline you can't do it because it blocks access to the studs on number 4. i don't know how it would go on a sr.

there is this new invention called mufflers. if you get good ones they will cut the noise and drone. get a good centre muffler and a nice oval muffler on the rear and it should be all good.

nice car, bit of a downgrade in power from the skyline though. i have raced a few of these and they aren't that quick. i could beat them in a 170hp magna.

well what would have 5 wires? cause i'm pretty sure all 33's (both series 1 and 2) are 3 wires, i think series 2 has a pink sticker, and i'm not sure about the series 1 colour.