mad082

the motors are the same, there are a few bolt on differences, but they are basically the same. and so is the pfc, and any other aftermarket ecu.

series 2. it was the last year they were made

no, you want it after the afm (which is where it is stock) so your afm doesn't get covered in oil. whatever you do don't block the ventilation pipe. if you do you will just blow your pcv out the moment you boost it. the pcv only works under vaccum. just put a breather on it for now ,then either get a catch can or plum it back into the intake pipe.

the way the solenoid is setup won't really make a difference. above 4500rpm it will let a TINY bit of air through into the intake, but it wouldn't cause this problem. take the dump pipe off and have a look at the exhaust wheel, and take the intake pipe off and have a look at the compressor wheel. also pull the cat out and see if it's blocked.

used to be 10%, now it's just 3kmh, so even if you are only doing 103 in a 100 zone you're screwed. that depends on state. in qld we don't have that luxury.

it takes bigger balls and more skill to drive a fwd car hard. nothing like having to fight the steering wheel in a straight line as well as round corners.

either. try the smaller gap first.

there would be a bit of turbulence caused by the 2.5" flange on the cat back system, but not much and only at high rpm. to be honest, even without the turbulence i don't think it would make much difference. if anything just get a 2.5" cat of a cruiser. they are supposed to flow rather well. i'm pretty sure my mate used to run 1 on his worked r31.

+1. that is what intercoolers are for.

try changing the plugs to a set of copper ones (bcpr6es) and see if that makes a difference (they are only about $4 a plug, so won't break the bank). it also depends on if the o2 sensor was even changed when it was supposed to. try disconnecting it and see if alters your fuel economy.

i have run (not all at the same time) 1 x 10", 1 x 12", 2 x 10", 2 x 12", and to be honest there isn't a lot in it. a single 12 will sound better than a single 10" but once you go double they sound similar. i ran 2 10's in a festiva and if you cranked it up you could make the engine stall. it would make you feel sick after about 1 song

not if it was stuffed when you got the car. the hotter plugs you were running got to their self clean temp easier so they could burn the extra fuel easier. and how many kms old are the plugs? not age sorry. pull them out and have a look and have a look and see if they are fouled up (all black and sooty). if they are then it is running rich and it would be worth testing your o2 sensor.

oh you mean when it clicks up into second while doing a skid? yeah thats nothing special. another reason why manuals acelerate quicker is that that have shorter ratios. shorter ratios accelerate quicker, but you just have to change gears a bit sooner. that is probably how you guys with the autos can be as quick of quicker than the manuals, since they have to change into 4th, but if you got to a point where yours had to change then you would be slower. that is a reason why the manual commodores are quicker to 100kmh that the falcons but slower over the 1/4. the commodores can do just over 100kmh in second but the falcons have to use 3rd, but over the 1/4 they are both in 4th gear. and another thing about the auto gear changes. the ferrari auto boxes only change as fast as a manual. the old ones were slower. some guys driving them in the GT Production series were trying to get manual ones cause the auto change was slower than the manual.

auto or manual at 171kw you shouldn't be frying 265s. you might spin them or chirp them but not fry them. and just cause they are new doesn't mean they are good. and cheap falkens are crap. or you suspension setup might not be that good for traction.

then you need better tyres.

more ecus run MAP or both rather than just afm.

the 3" would fit onto a 2.5" system.

nismo make injectors that fit straight in. if it is happening at low load it means either a sensor is failing or the light load tune they did has too much time/not enough fuel. take it for a run and give it a good stab and see if it come on under full load. there is no way the injectors could be maxed out at low load, but at 235kw you would be mighty close.

it would definately be on boost before 50kmh. it should be on boost by about 25kmh/30kmh.

stock or highflowed r33 turbo

i'd have 1 if i won lotto

LOL. exactly.

+ 11ty billion

as nismoid says it comes down to the tuner. if they are a good pfc tuner then the pfc will be ok, but as far as ease of tuning i'd probably say the wolf would be easier, since you don't have to fill in every part of the grid. with the wolf you can just change the scale and it will fill in lots of gaps. plus it is all in english. some cool features of the wolf: you can set a lower rev limit for the turbo timer so if someone was to steal the car while the turbo timer is on they can't rev it very high has both soft cut and hard cut rev limiter good display 6 stage shift light control can have 2 wideband o2 sensors hooked up to monitor/control afrs. help text for everything. if i had a spare few hours i would take some screenshots of it all, but there is just too much of it.

and get rid of the platinum plugs. they aren't very good for turbo cars. go copper or iridiums if you feel like wasting money. the coppers are about $4 each and will last you about 15,000kms. the iridiums are about $25 each and last you a bit longer, but in my case that was only an extra 5,000kms.