mad082

smaller diameter will give more low down power as the air will syphon itself out better, but you lose top end due to restriction. a bigger pipe will flow better up top but it loses the scavenging effect at low rpm. if you are bending the pipe yourself without a bender you could end up with a real mess. if you insist on doing it yourself buy some mandrel bends. they will cost you a bit but will come out much nicer.

a 33 with an ultimate that i have done a bit of work with made 251kw the other day with a 3037@16psi. it still runs stock injectors for now, new ones coming very soon. it makes life easier if you have a remapped ecu to piggyback it off as you don't have to fight rich/retard. you can just plug it in and tune. as for the wolf, the software for the v500 is very good. i have it on the laptop. the haltechs are pretty cheap now and pretty east to tune i think.

yeah i agree with both of the above posts. by the time you buy the bends, collectors and piping and spend the time doing it it might be much cheaper and easier to just buy some. and design can make a big difference. if you get 1 pipe slightly out of place you may have it that it doesn't line up with the rest of the system., and then you end up with an exhaust that hits the body every time you go round a corner. also length of primaries and secondaries can affect torque, etc. also make sure you get your welds right on your collectors otherwise they will leak.

it's not just about pressure, it is about airflow. if one of these fans can increase your airflow it may give you a power gain even if it doesn't raise inlet pressure.

the magna has 2 boxes on the intake pipe. they are there for noise and help with response for about the first .01 of a second when you open the throttle. they have a negative effect on flow at high rpm though.

the plug is about where your left knee sits when in the drivers seat

did you try connecting a wire straight from the battery onto it to make sure something in the deck isn't stuffed. also may be worth pulling out the plug that controls the height and making sure that it is connected properly

you obviously haven't seen the r34 with a twin turbo gen 3 in it. the gen 3 is a lighter motor than the rb25, has more power, and with twin turbos would eat a rb25 and fry the tyres much much easier

just think, with the new v6's you could bolt a twin turbo motor out of a noble straight in!!!!! if you can afford one. the v6's have been round for years. they had a 2.5L v6 in the ford probe. but with all the crap going on about ford having to sack workers, what is the alternative? keep the plant open, go bankrupt after 6 months and then have to fire everyone anyway? ford is a company, and companies are there to make money, not be a charity and employ heaps of people and pay out every cent they make in wages. especially when the unions keep wanting pay rises. that's what puzzles me. all the unions want employers to pay people more to cover the rising costs of living. ever wondered why they are rising? you get a pay rise. the business then has to make more profit to cover this extra money so it has to put it's prices up. this makes things more expensive for you so you are no better off than where you were, so you get another pay rise, the business puts its prices up again, etc, etc, etc. unions seem to want employers to make no money and employees to make millions

for 38k i reakon i could do a twin turbo gen 3 conversion plus decent paint job in a 33

would've taken a hell of a lot of work to shoe horn that thing in there. don't like the colour though, and i agree about the engine not being started bit too.

the reason you will lose power is cause you are sucking hot air. now i'm not sure about how much you know about air, but as you are accelerating there is constantly air flowing into the intake pipe, so the moment you shut the throttle, the intake pipe will have enough air already in it for when you stand on the gas again. you would be better having that bit of pipe come straight from the throttle body and go down into the inner gaurd with the pod on the end of it. it will have better flow properties, and a pod filter generally flows more air than a panel filter.

also check your cas

the emanage is an air-flow controller, but can have add-ons to control timing and injectors as well. the ultimate can remove the afm (not sure if the blue version can) with the addition of a map sensor.

posting this for UCD15R33 251kw/336hp stock motor stock injectors (maxed at this boost level, normally only running 8psi until new injectors) stock manifolds stock afm (maxed emanage ultimate piggybacked off remapped ecu (with only a basic tune, waiting for bigger injectors in a week or 2) BCPR6ES plugs gapped at 0.8mm (needed to be gapped down as it is breaking down, as you can see on the dyno graph) bellmouth dump/front pipe, new 3" cat (the last one collapsed and we only ran 291hp at open boost), 3.5" catback greddy m-spec cooler (the ones on special in the latest autobarn catalogue) with custom piping turbosmart manual boost controller Garret gt3076r (IW, 0.64 rear housing) boost can be see on the graph K&N panel filter (took it off and ran 10hp less with no air filter)

search the apexi website for stuff on how to fit a RSM. it should have something in it that tells you

i think it's a 57 chev. i know it's a chev, and i think it's a ute from memory

the silver thing at the bottom of the first pic that is the width of the engine bay is the cooler

any normal mechanic (not a dealer) should tighten your belts pretty cheap

as long as you know what you are doing and don't stuff it up. if you do stuff it up then you have to pay someone to reset it. with the manual controllers they are straight foward and if you do stuff up it is easy to go back to where you were and start over.

yeah. wd-40 on belts is not a good thing. it is like putting oil on your tyres. it will be a belt slipping that is causing the noise.

yeah repost. it is in america, but may have come to aus for a car show. there is a webpage about it somewhere. doesn't make that much power. still a fair bit, but there are more powerful motors out there with less turbos, LOL.

i sed one. held well. for the boost i was running i couldn't justify spending $100 for a controller, let alone $300 or $400, when i could spend the difference on other bits to make it go faster.

i had to put a ebay one in a 33. we used bits off the stock shifter to make it work (the bush at the bottom and 1 half way up). it was a bit of a pain to get in. i personally don't like it. the throw is too short and harsh. i persoanlly think there is no need for one on a skyline. they are short enough. if you want it a bit shorter and don't want to spend the money just cut the top off you stock shifter. it will have the same effect. shortening the top has the same effect as lengthening the bottom.

ok, well i had a go at what i could do. on gt4 in tsukuba with no NOS and qualifying tyres i got 47.898. i could possibly get a bit quicker but not sure how much. as for midfield raceway on gt3 i got 1:03.844. i could get a fraction quicker on that time as i was behind my ghost until the first checkpoint