mad082

well other than the $12,000 fine if you get emissions tested without at cat, the performance difference between a 2.5" decat and a 3" cat is probably very little. plus having the cat will mean you don't get so much crap on the back of the car around the exhaust. a cheap 3" cat can be picked up from under $200 off ebay. i bought one (an x-force one) and it worked fine for 200kw.

trent going the hard sell, LOL you could always look at other factory options. the later model magnas came out with a nice leather type boot and i think you can get them from mitsubishi for about $40. the only thing is that it may be a bot short as the magnas have a shorter lever than the skylines

phillips blue vision bulbs come with parkers that are the same colour as the bulbs. (they also make great lights for your dash. makes it look like there is a fluro behind the panel) as for the LEDs i was just mean the bright blue LEDs. the white LEDs that they use in torches are ok, but any light that is to blue becomes duller.

i had to do this. except mine snapped at the base of the bolt so it was just the thread left in the bell housing. i used a dremel to put a nick in the top of the thread and just screwed it out. i spoke to a mechanic mate and he said it was more than likely do to it being over tightened. i had to do it in my garage (that's where it broke). so i took the gearbox out with the car jacked up about a foot off the ground. took me about 2 hours to get the box out by myself (with not the greatest selection of tools) and only about an hour to get it back in since i didn't have to keep sliding in and out from under the car cause i already had the tools there. only cost me 90cents to fix though.

they should say on the packaging if they are ADR approved. phillips blue vision bulbs are good. i had them in my r33. they are a whitish light. +50 bulbs are another phillips bulb. they are designed to be +50 brighter than normal bulbs, but still the standard colour. i had a mate who had very blue bulbs as his high beam in his 33. on high beam the lights shone far ahead, but it was hard to see. it was very dull (if you have every seen a blue LED keyring and tried to use it to see something in the dark you will understand). you could drive round on them and not get flashed but you sort of struggled to see things. blue lights are much better in the fog than white and yellow, but yellow are the best in the wet.

you should also know what is legal and what isn't if you go to a bulb that isn't ADR approved and crash at night your insurance company may not pay up. phiilips blue vision are the most whitest legal bulb in their range. the crystal and diamond vision aren't ADR approved. also blue vision bulbs are only as bright as a standard bulb (crystal and diamond are duller), so if you actually value being able to see at night i would suggest getting a better bulb like a +50 and be able to see better than being a ricer with cool lights but can't see very well.

yeah, just get a 3" cat. that way there isn't extra turbulence caused by the size reduction.

not by much. but either way, the money you spend on this weght saving exercise could be spent on getting more power which will have more of an effect and outway the negative of the heavier bonnet. or just pull out your stereo plus carbon bonnets are illegal as far as i know

is this on standard internals? if it is, no wonder you are selling it. it won't last long if it is on stock internals.

it still won't sort out the fact that the diff ratios are different.

hasn't said what boost yet, so i'm not scared at all. but i found 250kw bordering on fun.

i don't think there is a difference. the ecu is pretty much the same (i used a series 1 ecu on a series 2 motor and it worked fine). i think the only place you may run into troubles is that (i think) the diff ratios are different between the auto and manual so it will read wrong.

just make sure there isn't too much glue, otherwise you will just clog the hole up.

a few things to try: get an old speaker and put the magnet to the lock then slowly pull it away. otherwise try and get the skinniest piece of wire you can find, cut it into to pieces and try to pinch the end of the key with that.

i know that with the r32 they bolt straight on. i have a mate with one. the weight difference is noticable. when i first lifted the bonnet on my mates 32 i nearly threw it over the roof. but i hope you got a bit of spare coin to pay for it. they aren't cheap.

yeah what tony said. the 2.5" flanges on the cat will bolt up to the 3" flange of the cat back. infact it will even bolt up to a 3.5".

i'm not sure if that code will work at a paint shop...... you would probably have just as much luck getting them to search by name

when you have the cover on, when moisture gets in it doesn't get out very easily. any water that gets in will just turn into steam and most of it will stay in there, then when the car cools back down it will just condense on everything. no cover means that any condensation that gets in gets out just as easy. plus it means next time you want to take your plugs out you don't have to take off your cross over pipe. just unplug the coils, undo the 3 or 4 bolts that hold the coild pack holder bracket and lift the coils out in lots of 3. i had to degrease my engine so i put my coil cover back on. i splashed the top of the motor a bit but not much. when i went to drive it i discovered that half the coils were covered in water. took the cover off, used a rag to soak up as much of the water as i could and then just let the car run until it was all boiled off.

i think you would have to ring a dealer and plead with them to give it to you. and even then you would probably have to buy the paint off them too. otherwise go to a paint shop and get some marinello (sp) red. i know holden uses that colour.

get your bump steer checked. it could be that you have excessive bump steer, which is altering your toe angle dramatically when you hit a bump, or have body roll when turning. also get your steering rack mounts checked to make sure there isn't any excess movement in that. but i put a set of cheap falkens on the missus pulsar and has worn them out in about 5000kms. admittedly it is fwd and cops a bit of a hard time, and needs a bit of a wheel alignment, but they tyres i had on before these ones lasted longer, gripped better and took more punishment than the falkens have.

or you could just leave your coil cover off altogether. that way LOTS more heat can escape.

that will be (most likely) a v-band flange. you will need to get a custom dump pipe made with a v band flange on it.

i had a mate that got a max of about 160kw out of a natro rb30e (not de). but it was far from what i would class as reliable. went like the clappers though. i think it ran a best of about 13.8 at willowbank.

in qld you can have red as long as it is pointing backwards (since break lights are red). technically you can't legally have green in qld either cause it is the taxi emergency colour.

yeah, i have heard it that way as well (which makes more sense) but i have heard a few old guys say it as half the price. i'd say they are from back in the days when school was optional.