mad082

will it do it only when you start the car cold? or every time you start the car? if it is only while the car is cold, then a gasket is probably going, but it only has a tiny hole and once the metal heats up and expands it is sealing the hole back up. get some exhaust cement and go round all the gaskets and see if it goes away.

you can always just use a pair of multi grips to flare out the ends of the piping. we did it on a mates 180 cause it had custom piping on it when he got it and it holds 17psi fine.

doing the end tank is different to doing the core though. the core is where most of the cooling oocurs.

try going to a smaller gap before you go a colder plug. you may have a 1.1mm gap, or they may be 0.8mm plugs that are worn and the gap is now bigger than 0.8mm. pull the old plugs out and have a look at the code on them, as well as check the gap with a feeler gauge. heat range 7 plugs are rather cold. if you are running huge amounts off boost then you can get away with it but if it is standard boost, or standard computer you may foul plugs quickly as they may not be be burning all of the fuel. ideally you want to run as hot plugs as you can with as big of a gap that you can. this gives you the best burn.

yeah, i would go buy all the stuff you need from a wreckers

i'm not a big fan of the 400r front bar. i don't like the little indicators

the bang bang bang sounds as though it was retarding the timing, or cutting the spark, and the bang was the fuel igniting in the exhaust. what you have now is probably removing the fuel, which is better for your turbo. the sound you have now is what the limiter on the stock ecu sounds like.

it is amazing what you find when you get other members to search for you, lol

i know it has been done on 32's a few times, and i'm sure someone has probably done it to a 33.

yeah i always wondered too. it is a bit like "cheap at half the price"........ most things are cheap at half the price.

u can still work as a mechanic and not have a licence. my mate is a mechanic and he lost his licence for 3 months. as for the money, it isn't that bad. it just depends on where you work. my mate was only getting paid for hours booked (not a set amount of hours per week) and he was making about $1000 a week. there are a lot of jobs with less pay than that, retail for example. full adults wage of just over $500 a week for 38 hours.

and it looks to be a s2, unless someone has just put the s2 bonnet and lights on a s1. have a look on the compliance plate. if it is 1996 or later model then it is s2.

just looks to be a 400r kit. or at least 400r front bar and gtr wing.

not only the added restriction of the turbo and the cooler but the lower compression of the turbo motor. at 0psi boost even at 5000rpm they couldn't pull a drunk sailor off your sister. just take off the hig boost solenoid, leaving it at 5psi. if the car is only stock and at 5psi you won't be much quicker than a commodore. if that is too much power then i can sell you a push bike.

that would be the cat temp warning sensor. you can live without it. it only controls a light on the dash. the o2 sensor screws into the dump pipe, not the cat. but again you can drive without that too, you will just use more fuel when cruising.

you need the glass as well as the resin/hardener. it is a messy job. all you do is (this is a very basic run down) sit it in the position you want it to be in when it is done, mix up the resin (make it a bit stronger than they suggest, that way it will set faster and a bit harder), lay on some of the glass, and put some resin on using a paint brush and spread around, then add more on. make sure you do it in layers. do the full area with 1 layer before you start the next.

a lot of places that do chrome plating do it. otherwise you can do it yourself but it can be messy, and dangerous. but it would conduct heat exactly the same as bare metal since you are actually just dying the metal. you aren't putting another layer over the top. you are changing the colour of the alloy.

i seen a few. not my cup of tea personally.

yeah the gaurds will fit. my mate has a s1 gaurd on 1 side and an s2 on the other. they sit slightly different but where the light goes in it pretty much the same. you could just use the s1 bonnet. it just won't sit as nicely, and look a bit funny

i made a thing up like this for my 180 years back after i saw a GT starlet with a factory one. i was going to do it to my 33 but was too lazy. just make sure the light is either green or red (preferably red) or you may get shafted by the cops. making it blue will definately get you attention from the cops.

there has been threads galore about this. i think there is a company that sells them.

coming from someone with an even heavier r34.....

yeah late model wrx run 5x114.3 but the earlier imprezas (both wrx and normal impreza) as well as libertys were 5x100, as are a lot of the little mazdas.

i had a problem with my boost controller where it was holding the wastegate open when you changed gears. so in the next gear you would start to get positive boost at about 5500rpm. it was gutless. there is a hill just out of town where if i boosted it from the bottom i could normally hit 100kmh by just before the top, but i was boosting up it when i first discovered the problem. i hit third at about 80kmh and no boost. by the top i had dropped back down to about 60kmh. it was a pretty steep hill. yes disconnecting the wastegate flap will give you no boost, but it will also make the car completely gutless. it would be like driving a natro that has done about 1,000,000kms and is due for a rebuild. if you are really worried just disconnect the high boost solenoid. but it standard form they aren't that much of a handfull. i went from a manual magna to a stock manual 33 and was rather dissapointed. i thought it would actually notice a decent performance difference but i didn't. it wasn't until i started modding it that it actually seemed to have any go.

the harness could only cause a problem if the plug is dicky, ot the wires are slightly melted through.