mad082

we weren't planning on whoring. i just wanted to break the ice so new members aren't scared to introduce themselves. if no-one else had posted they might've thought that they would get into trouble.

Hi everyone i'm marc and i own a bike shop and i have been addicted to SAU for 18 months now i thought i better get the ball rolling so that new members aren't afraid to post in here

you don't want toe in at the front. toe out gives you better turn in. as for feeling floaty, that could be caused by tyre pressure.

an intercooler on a NA will make it lose power, as the temp it would cool it to is the same as it was when it entered, although if you had the cooler as a front mount it would actually soak in a touch of heat from the radiator while you are sitting in traffic so it could heat the air up. basically all it would do is add restriction. the reason they work on a turbo car is that the act of compressing air heats it up, plus the heat radiationg through the turbo heats it up a bit too. so the air coming out of the turbo is up close to 100 degrees at times.

i am pretty sure this also happened when the s2000, or evo 8 or something like that was released. some people that got in early would go into the dealer to pick up their car and have a buyer waiting at the entry to the dealership that would pay 10k or more higher than purchase price. i know if i had the money i'd do it. go round to a few different dealerships, order 1 (back when it was first announced of course, not now) then sell them 1 at a time. if you did it 4 times you would pretty much get enough profit to keep 1 for yourself and not pay a cent for it.

bumpski

ucd15r33 has the GCG version of this turbo with the .63 exhaust housing and he made 251kw at about 16psi, with stock injectors maxing out and only a basic tune on the emanage. he did suffer from a bit of a boost drop off at high rpm. but it was much better than 215kw we made a week or 2 before that when the rear honey comb of the cat has broken away and turned sideways so the cat was pretty much blocked. at open boost it would spool up to 17psi and by 6500rpm it was down to 12psi. the 215kw was made at about 5500rpm and 14psi.

i would be worried if the gtr wasn't quicker than the evo and sti in stock form, considering the price difference. what sort of time would a stock r34 gtr get?

anyone know what offset the standard r32 gtr rims are?

another thing against the gtr where the gt3 will better it is the fact that there is a wealth of knowledge out there about setting up the gt3 suspension wise, etc.

well that will be the main opposition it will have. but at the end of the day if someone is serious into racing they aren't going to overlook the gtr if it will lap quicker then the porsche.

well that counts you out then.

the v-spec isn't going to be aimed at rich posers. it is going to be a track car aimed at people that race. i'd expect it to be marketed to race against lambos and porsches in production car races.

i did a 14.8 1/4 in my manual 99 magna with just a catback exhaust at willowbank.

actually the 1.5 has the same headlights as a series 1. it is a series 1.5 or a series 2 that has had both front and rear damage. the boot garnish is a series 1 (or 1.5), but has series 1.5/2 wing, series 1.5/2 motor, and if it has dual airbags then it could be anything, as they were an option on earlier models, they just became standard on the series 2. if you go and look at it get the vin number and send it to me and i will check it on FAST for you.

pull the rb25 out and put a ca18 natro motor and box in. this will save you some weight, LOL. also get some mags off a mini. they will be nice and small and light.

you say you don't like to photoshop but the one with the baby in the grass you did,

bump

you can pull a fuse out in the autos which locks it into 3rd which (on the 4 speeds) is a 1:1 ratio. also piggy back ecu's like the emanage ultimate will allow you to change afm, injectors, etc and will give the same result as a pfc.

1 major advantage of nissan bringing them into australia is parts. it wil be much easier to get simple everyday items for the car. also you will get warranty. i would much rather pay an extra 30 or 40k for a car if it comes with warranty. especially on what is essentially a totally new car. i doubt it will have any issues but there is always the chance. all it would take is 1 major component recall and if you didn't have the warranty and it failed and you would have to spend what you would save by privately importing it.

bump

yeah that is rich and retard. different people think it is different things. i had that on my r33. the cheapest option is to get a remapped ecu off ebay. if you go this way get it dyno'd straight away to check the AFR's. if they are lean then get a safc or something like that. the other option is to go a emanage ultimate. then you can remove the afm altogether if you want (with the addition of a map sensor). the emanage will be a cheaper option than a pfc and will give you about the same results if you go to a tuner that knows what they are doing (which is the same with a pfc. the quality of the tune more depends on the tuner than the ecu)

Make: mitsubishi Model: magna TH executive sedan '99 Milage: 160,000 Colour: white Location: Gympie, QLD RWC supplied? no Currently registered? yes Price: $8500 $8000 ono Contact: marc 0409 122 787 Comments / Modifications: white 3.5L v6 5 speed manual super cold air con (new drier installed and regassed in feb 2007) 160,000kms (had timing belts done at 100,000kms) lowered (front: king lows, rear: king lows) 2.5" cat back with cannon (also comes with redback muffler) 17" r34 wheels with good tyres ABS remote locking cruise control tow bar (missing tongue for it though) ran 14.8 at willowbank new front springs and shocks. since running 14.8 it has had the throttlebody high flowed and polished, k&n panel filter, new main engine mount. Images: more pics to come.

just out of curiousity, would what a z-tune cost? now compare that to the new gtr. also take into consideration that if the z-tune is running a race engine then it isn't going to take that kindly to sitting in traffic and driving down to the shops on a cold morning to get some milk. the vr38 is a high performance engine that can be used in everyday situations. also they r35 probably rides better on rough roads than the z-tune. and finally, as far as life of the engine goes, i'd say that the z-tunes motor would wear out quicker than the vr38. yes it has race internals, but they generally aren't designed to still be putting out full power after 100,000kms. and i thought the vr38 had been developed with the help of cosworth.

in qld you won't get fined for the pod so long as it has a fixed mounting bracket. it can be uncovered. (my mate got pulled over by the hoon squad and asked them about it) yes you can get done for the bov and the reo.