mad082

i think it is more designed to read what is the point where flooring it won't get you any better acceleration. so like at 1500 rpm you don't really gain any acceleration over being at 50% throttle. you are just dumping in more fuel, some of which isn't getting burnt. so you end up using 20% more fuel to accelerate 5% quicker. i also think it may be more designed for automatic cars rather than manual cars, as auto's are less effecient when accelerating than manuals.

just paid 6 months rego, so price is back to $7000

i don't think there should be restrictors in there as they would lower the fuel pressure. there shouldn't be a boost solenoid in that line. if it is an EBC the map sensor can go on that hose, but not the solenoid. that should be on the line to the wastegate.

ok, i just tried it on the other computer at work and when i first opened the page it was all centred, but then when i logged in it went back to normal.

mine seems to be ok though, so it doesn't seem to be everyone who is affected

what does nemor mean? i think you mean 'neither'. that's ok that you didn't get it right. i suppose it might be a bit hard to read a book while doing the housework.......

now comes with roadworthy/safety certificate

just got the rego renewal in the mail so dropping the price to $6700 until rego is due, then it will be going back up if i have to put rego on.

price drop $7000

well you better go and tell everyone else with a magna for sale to drop their prices too, cause i haven't seen any for sale for that sort of price. maybe the old auto 3.0L ones go for that but i am yet to see a manual 3.5L for under about $6500. but i'm sure you know more about how much they sell for than everyone out there with a magna for sale, or even someone who can just look through a site like carsales and find that there are no manual magnas for under $6500 for sale with the 3.5L motor.

WTF is a looser? oh you mean loser.

as someone who ran 14psi for quite a while, and having mates who have all done it also without any problems, i can say that your seat of the pants dyno is out of whack. i noticed a big difference going from 11psi to 14. and another friend of mine stuck his car on the dyno. started at 200kw at 13psi and then wound up the boost and went up to 216kw at 16psi. i have heard so many people on this forum say that you won't make any more power by going above 12psi and all i can do is laugh, cause 99% of them have never tried it and only say it because they read it on here somewhere (same goes for rich and retard). none of the people i know that have run high boost have blown a turbo, yet i know someone that had a turbo let go at stock boost and a few people that have had turbos let go at around 11psi. now while i will admit that you are heading into the unsafe zone at anything above 13psi (and that if your turbo is a bit weak this will put it over the edge), people that automatically assume that once you go above that pressure your turbo WILL DIE just shit me off. the reason being is that there are plenty of people not on this forum with skylines running that sort of boost and not having any problems. it is just that on this forum you hear about the people that do have it happen.

yeah but i got in first.

i'm going to guess a solenoid controller for your unichip ecu.

yeah that is also true, except for the first line. i think there are infact people in this thread that think that it is slide's fault even though his supplier cocked up

this whole thread is a prime example why i will pay the extra dollars and buy from a local store or workshop (if it is something that they are fitting). another reason why i will buy from a workshop if they are intalling the part is that while they may be more expensive on the part they will generally charge you less on labour than if you bring in an item that you bought elsewhere, so you sort of get money back. and also if something goes wrong with the part they will be more inclined to help. as for who should wear the cost of it all, etc, well working in the retail industry just plain sux. the customer always thinks they are right no matter what the circumstances. in this case i think the main guilty party is the manufacturer. they put the wrong clutch in the wrong box. so how was slide to know that it was wrong unless he pulled it out and compared it with another. and if it was from the same company, he could compare it but if the supplier had stuffed up 2 clutches then he could say "yes i have checked it and it is the right one" but he has just compared it to a wrong clutch. you could also argue that the buyer should've checked it was the right one. to which point most people will pipe up and say "he shouldn't have to". but then why should slide have to check it was the right one either. now i am not taking anyones side here, just putting out some points of view. the only party not in the wrong is the workshop as they spent time trying to do what they were asked and couldn't as the parts were wrong, so why should they lose money. as far as trying to sue slide, that is just a waste of time and money. it would cost you more in legal fees than what you would get back. all i can say is that more people need to learn from the mistakes made by others. when you buy from a local shop and something goes wrong there is someone there to go and talk to about it. they can't simply not return phonecalls or emails.

hello.....

any pics?

so i take it daddy hasn't agreed to buy you one yet. or are you just waiting to find some rich guy to leech off?

bump

still a bit expensive.....

i'll take it if you throw in the bbq

bump

ok 2 things, first, steve, you are recommending an oil 20w heavier than nissan recommends, so surely something 10w heavier than nissan recoomends should still have a higher oil pressure than standard, so his oil pump may be stuffed if he is getting low pressure with that. (and yes i know the stock gauge isn't reliable) secondly you say mobil 1 is crap for RB engines. does that include mobil 1 15w50? as it is the same weight as the motul you have suggested? now i don't care whether people use motul, mobil 1 or oil out of a deep frier at their local take away shop. i have never used mobil 1 and probably never will. but i want to clear up whether you are saying that mobil 1 oil is crap in general, or just the 40w oil is too light for an RB. and if you are saying mobil 1 is crap no matter what weight, please specify why. if you have had an engine faiure while running mobil 1 how can you say that it was definately cause by the oil and not the fact that (i am just using an example, not saying this happened) you were sitting on the limiter when it popped.

white r33, black bonnet and stupid big drift wing. just drove up the main street of gympie.