mad082

i totally agree with tony. we are constantly talking about the amount of useless, incorrect info on this forum. and the problem is that we are at a stage where if you try and correct them, so many people are misinformed that no-one believes you because the majority of people will say it is worng. my favourite is the age old repsonse to a missfire. rich and retard. i have seen people post up saying that they have a missfire and hidden in a big list of mods will be an aftermarket ecu and you will still get a handfull of people say rich and retard. 99% of people have never had rich and retard happen so don't know what it actually feels like, but since they were told that their missfire was rich and retard they then tell everyone else that their problem is rich and retard. the other is the people that say that you won't gain any power by running a stock turbo above 12 or 13psi. how many of them have actually tried it? none. they are just taking the word of others who also haven't tried it. but because every other member says that it is true it must be. or the old "high reading dyno" comment (usually used when someone makes over 200kw from a stock turbo'd r33). i'm sorry, but just because your car won't make that much power, doesn't mean that other people can't make theirs make that much power by tweaking a few things. actually no, i stand corrected, this is my favourite. people who bag out lancers for having evo bodykits and 'ricer' exhausts. yet this somehow seems to only be a problem when lancer drivers do it. natro skyline owners can do the same thing an it is fine. but it is the same thing. both people are getting the base model car and trying to make it look like it's turbo'd big brother. /rant

what mods do you have (such as intercooler, etc)? i ofund that after i put on my fmic i was getting servere boost spiking because the hose to the wastegate was coming from the manifold (new pipe that didn't have the nipple on it like the old one). so i cut the nipple off the old piping and welded it into the pipe from the turbo to the cooler and boost became steady as a rock. i would go and buy a new length of hose and run it straight from wherever you currently have it hooked to the cooler/intake to the wastegate. don't run it through the boost solenoid or anything like that. then if it still runs high boost then it is either going to be that you have it hooked to the wrong place to start with, or your wastegate flap is fouling on the dump pipe.

when i first put the 2" system on the SSS i only had a lukey muffler on the rear and it was noisey as hell but sounded great. the guys fitting it got me to take it for a spin round the block to see if i wanted to quiten it down. i took it for a spin, and as much as i liked the sound i knew that mr policeman would bend me over and insert his nightstick into a certain orrifice if i left it that loud, and also on trips it would piss me off, so we put eith a 12 or 14" resonator (hotdog style) in the centre and it made it much better. although it did lose a bit of bark.

and put a long range fuel tank in the boot to fill with oil. then you just have to remember to fill it up with fuel every second time that you have to fill up the oil, LOL

series 1.5 and 2 r33s have the ignitor in the coils, series 1 has a seperate ignitor.

there is 1 thing that would be enough to make me buy a lambo if i had the money. it would compensate for the poor visibility, the fact that the pedals are slightly to the left of the drivers seat due to the front wheel, etc and that is the exhaust note. the exhaust noise of a lambo is enough to give me a chubby. and this has probably already been said, but, the thread says that is a lp640 (murceilago) commercial, but the clip is for the gallardo lp560

was the damaged even claimed on insurance, or did they damage the car, not claim it on insurance and then just let the rego run out? if it wasn't claimed on insurance then all you have to do is fix it then get a roadworthy. and the rest has been said above. stat write off means it's stuffed, so unless you want it for parts don't bother. repairable write off means that the damage was going to cost close to or more to fix than to pay out the car. as for receipts, something like a bumper you may not need to show a reciept for, but you could always just do a print screen of the closed auction, or ask the seller to write a quick reciept for it.

well their fuel is generally from 1 of the big brands anyway, so it could be just the same as the shell stuff.

welcome

yeah i saw the funny side of that too

would've been better if it was made from with 1/4 pounder meat, lol

yeah, or very watered down. or they got it for free and didn't pay the excise on it so are going to sell it without the excise on it.

just got an email from one of my suppliers about price increases. that is the second email this week about price increases, and also got a letter in the mail last week from another. the one i got today was the biggest increase though, 20% starting this friday. their costs went up 35% and they absorbed 15%. makes me very glad that i am full to the rafters with bikes so none of the increases effect me and make my prices cheaper than other shops that aren't as well stocked as me. had a mate from a shop in brissy ask whether we had crystal ball that we looked in before we ordered all our stock.

*cough* buy a manual 3.5L magna *cough* LOL

turbo for sure. building the rb30de for a superlap car would like be spending lots of money to make a porno movie and then hiring actresses who won't take their clothes off.

the only way a vaccum line can alter the spool sound is if it is making the wastegate stay open instead of closing (so exhaust air isn't making the turbo spool), and if that was the case you wouldn't have boost. i'm guessing your spooling noise possibly isn't actually your spooling noise but a leak (such as bov not closing 100%) especially if what you did made the bov louder (you probably made the bov close properly). what pod filter are you using?

ummm, why do you turn the key twice? depending on where you are turning it to you could be getting the fuel pump to start then stop then start again, which probably isn't the best thing for it.

that is a good point about the sitting in traffic bit. thermo's are generally running at full speed no matter what rpm you are doing, where as a clutch fan speed when it is fully engaged will depend on rpm.

i haven't had much to do with the gold, but i have tuned a ultimate on a mates 33 (although it was turbo) and they are a good unit. very easy to use with the windows tuning software. as for how much of a performance gain you will get, that will depend on how your car is running at the moment. i know that if i was to put one on the missus pulsar it would have a decent gain because with the stock ecu from about 5000rpm upwards the AFR's drop down into the 11's, and by 7000rpm it is down into the 10's. i know that on the magna forum there are quite a few guys running emanage and gaining about 10 to 15kw.

they are listed as t3 as that is the flange type. it doesn't really have anything to do with the actual size of the turbo.

ok, well i will list my 2 natro cars that i have had on the dyno (neither skylines though). will scan dyno sheets when i find them. 2000 n15 SSS pulsar genie extractors 2" press bend system (which i want to get redone because it is just one we bodged up 1 arvo) with 12" centre resonator and lukey muffler (not a cannon) k&n panel filter fuel - dunno. probably 91 octane. can't remember 112hp atw (approx 84kw) 2000 mitsubishi magna (3.5L manual) first run: 100% stock, rear muffler was a cannon, but rest of the piping was stock 159hp atw (approx 118kw) second run: pacemaker extractors, 2.5" redback centre system (cat to rear axle), 2.5' lukey rear system k&n panel filter 170hp atw (approx 127kw) 1999 magna (same as previous one, manual 3.5L) never dyno'd, but felt more powerful as the previous one had been thrashed a fair bit. redback 2.5" exhaust 14.8 at willowbank with 2.18 60ft time

yeah i would have to agree. sure the gts-4 will get off the line quicker due to the 4wd, but once going that is just going to weigh it down the the gts will be quicker.

i must be the only person with a good results from autobarn. but then the autobarn in gympie has won the award for best autobarn in australia quite a few times. 1 guy that works there has a 400hp sr20 powered silvia, and the owner has owned a few skylines (i bought a remapped ecu off him for my 33) and he gave me the old tyres off his car cause he got new ones and the old ones still had about 80% tread. never really had any issues ordering stuff in either. and the previous owner was really good too. when i first got my pulsar i was putting my stereo in and the wires kept coming out of the plugs and i just snapped and threw it across the yard. so i went in the next day to buy a new one and the owner asked me why i was buying a new head unit (the other one was probably 6 months old, and rather expensive) and i told him what i had done and he said "just bring it back in and we will send it back and say it got damaged in transit and get it fixed under warranty for you." and they did.

col, i think he may have been meaning the width of the tyre, rather than the diameter. the widest you can go is 1.3 times the widest option stock tyre that was available on that car. so even if the car came with a widest optional tyre of 225 you could still run 285 tyres (1.3 x 225 comes out at 293 so you could probably get away with 295s) the other thing you have to take into account is that changing in your track. you can increase the track by up to 26mm, but can't reduce it at all. so that means that gtr wheels won't actually be legal because they have a lower offset. and before people start saying that they came on the same generation car, the gtr runs different track to the gt-t. the front is the same but the rear is different (it's wider), so putting the gtr wheels on will reduce the track. however if the gtr is listed on the same tyre placard (sticker just inside the door) as the gt-t then you could get away with it.

you could buy bolt on supercharger kits for them, and there are a few turbo ones getting around. but both have traction issues. if they did a rwd version they would be brilliant, but probably not quite as quick. there are plenty of manual 3.5L magnas and VRX's running mid 14 second 1/4's. i think part of the reason is that they have shorter gear ratios than the falcons and commodores, except for the 4 speed autos that will do 150kmh in second gear.