mad082

with the upgraded exhaust, etc you should see about 160kw at least.

well if changing the ignitor solved the issue last time you would assume at least some of the problem lies there. what plugs did you put in? and how old are the coilpacks? if the coilpacks are old then they might be struggling. and it your spark plugs are gapped at 1.1mm that won't be helping the situation either.

were you trying to get the rear housing to have a skyline dump pipe pattern on it? if so then that may be the reason as garret housings aren't compatiable with the skyline dump pipe. if you weren't and just getting the garret housing, then it sounds a bit odd. actually, was just looking and the person may have gotten it confused with a 3071r as the 3071r comes in a 0.5 AR compressor with a 0.86 rear http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...R_700382_20.htm

what sort of fuel do you run? have you been losing coolant at all?

you said lots, which is close enough. most turbos that do have a nipple on the housing have it in location 1, but i would also suggest having it on the intercooler piping a little bit away from the compressor.

yes it will work. and it will be more reliable than a boost controller as well

i would also have to say the nistune. it's a cheap option and unless you are planning on chasing big power will do the job just fine.

tektro are made in asia as well. and the shimano's come out of malaysia, but shimano also has a few factories in china. a lot of the time the european or USA made stuff is only much more expensive because of the higher labour costs, not because it is any better. i used to sell a brand that came out of the same factory as another brand (even had the other brands name stamped into the back of the frame) and for an identical bike minus the name written on all the parts it was about 30% cheaper. i really do get sick of people saying something is shit simply because it's made in china. it is only shit if the company who ordered it wanted it to be as cheap as possible and didn't care about quality. there are some rather respectable bike companies who do dodgy things when getting bikes made as far as saying where the bike was made. generally the high end asain made bikes we get here are from taiwan, and the cheaper stuff from china. however most of the factories in taiwan also own factories in china as well, so they will get things made in china, send them to taiwan and put the bike together with them but the bike gets classified as made in taiwan. now the really cheap nasty stuff is starting to come out of india, vietnam and the philipenes oh and cable discs don't require regular cable replacement unless there is an issue with the cable or the way it is mounted. they shouldn't require a cable to be replaced any more often than a regular brake system, and a good cable should last at least 5 years. i know people who ride everyday and haven't had to replace a cable in 10 years

just to be picky, the deity cranks aren't actually bmx cranks. they are a bmx style mtb crank, LOL. but they are just a copy of other cranks on the market (as a lot of them are). no matter what cranks you run though you still end up with the same problem, and that is that the bottom bracket is still a euro bb which has the weakest bearings of all of the bottom bracket sizes due to having to run cups and tiny bearings. and then still being a mtb you will buckle wheels easier than a bmx due to the extra leverage, have weaker frames and forks and bars

rst forks aren't that bad. they are just as good/bad as any other low end fork of the same price. the whole bike is only about $800 new. that is about half the price of a high end set of forks, LOL, so you can't expect the same performance. if you are regularly jumping the bike i would suggest getting a better bike than this one..... like a bmx, LOL well isis spline cranks are about 1000 times better than square taper cranks (which i have seen stuffed after 1 day of riding). it's the same basic design as shimano use on their high end XTR gear, and there are a lot of high end bikes using isis drive. and similar systems are used on most bmx bikes with 3 piece cranks (although the high end stuff uses different splines). as for cable discs, i don't really like any. sure some will work ok, but not as good as hydraulic.

off the top of my head... forks are rst gila brakes are cable disc cranks are turvatic isis spline bars... dunno. probably just a generic steel bar

spotted today and the other day as well, red r34 gt (maybe gt-t) in gympie. also regularly see a silver r34 gt-t doing laps of the main street of gympie too. and often see a black 34 gt-t in gympie as well. see a heap of 32's and 33's as well. but there is something about both the red and silver r34's that gets my attention. that is the fact that there is only 1 real r34 gtr in gympie that i am aware of and it's bayside blue, and there is 3 gt-t's. however according to the badges there are 3 gtr's and 1 gt-t, LOL. the red 34 has a gtr badge on the boot, and the silver one has a gtr badge in the grill and a bee-r badge on the boot (that looks like a gtr badge from a distance). both are lacking in the flared rear guards department, as well as the MFD in the dash and both have 2 white reverse lights instead of 1 white 1 red.

now i'm guessing that when you say you have a tomei afr, you mean the air fuel gauge. do you have the correct o2 sensor for it or did you just wire it into the existing o2 sensor? if you are using the correct o2 sensor then ok. if you are using the stock one, then take it out and ignore it as it won't be reading accurately at all. if it is the correct sensor then what AFR's is it actually running? light throttle should be round 14 to 15 (although if you have replaced the stock o2 sensor with this one then it will be 10 to 12 all the time), then heavy throttle should be in the 10 to 12 range for a stock ecu. and yeah, z32 afm with stock ecu, you are lucky it even runs. that is like putting a ps3 game into a dvd player and expecting it to work normally. my suggestion is to stick the stock afm back in and take it to a dyno and get them to do a few runs and check the afr's.

there is a member on here who sells the consult cables (newkleer i think). they are a little bit more than the ebay ones though, but you can get them with a usb plug on it. i got one of him and it works great. and there is plenty of free software available. most of it all seems to do the same thing. i have also used the bkr6e plugs. no noticable gain over the bcpr6es plugs, but then i wasn't having missfire issues (well at least not after i pulled out the stuffed iridium plugs)

something else i just thought of, how old is your fuel filter? highly unlikely it would make a difference such a short time, but you never know.

there may be a turbo timer hidden up there anywhere that also reads boost and has a programmable warning beep. stick your head in there and have a look

is it a deep noise or a high pitch squeal like a belt slipping? maybe it is your engine moving on the mounts due to the sudden twist when acclerating and it's cracked the exhaust or the exhaust is a bit loost and the noise is exhaust noise and as things get hotter the metal expands and closes the gap a bit

umm, if your fuel pump is maxing out, couldn't it just be getting leaner because you are pushing it so hard that it is dying? my suggestion would be to scrap the fuel pressure reg and get a new fuel pump. you say that you don't think the fuel pump is fine, but you said in your first post that the tuner said you can't make it any richer because of the fuel pump. and in your last post you also talk about maxing the fuel pump. you are running your pump at it's max, or very close to it and i'd guess it is slowly dying.

we aren't being sexist in this thread (alright i may have been slightly, but i was more being analytical as to why some girls do things like this. some guys do similar things for similar reasons though). we aren't picking on her because she is a girl, we are picking on her because she is stupid. here is a very simple explaination of this thread: missr34: can people please help? what do you think of this? sau members: *offer help* missr34: i don't want/need any help. i'm doing it my way and i will only listen to my tuners so you can all get stuffed sau members (including some women): *begin flame war select few members who know her and want to get in her pants or have to stick up for anyone and incorrectly spot racism/sexism from 300m: leave her alone and stop being sexist

does it stay high until redline or is it just a spike? if it stays there then i'd say you have an issue with your dump pipe or the wastegate flap. something is going on where it isn't able to flow enough air through the wastegate so it is going through the turbine wheel and creating the extra boost. there is a small chance it could be something kinking/squashing the wastegate line though. also i had issues with spiking just after i put my fmic on and i had the wastegate hose running from the bov line. i was getting issues where it was spiking to 14psi (was running 10 at the time) for a second when applying the accelerator after changing gears. and it wasn't holding boost that well at high rpm. i ended up cutting the boost nipple off the old intercooler piping and welding it into the pipe from the turbo to the cooler and never had an issue after that.

i had a worse version of this issue when i had a turbosmart dual stage controller. i would change gear and not get any boost until i lifted off again for a little bit. first time i changed into 3rd with the controller on i was at about 4000rpm (had just changed from 2nd at high rpm) and had zero boost with WOT.

but that could be caused by other issues as well. crap tune, sad motor, etc. to compare different cars at different boosts is a bit pointless. but i know from seeing the evidence first hand on back to back dyno runs that there was a gain of 20kw by going from 12 to 16psi. but then my car made 15kw more than 2 of my mates cars with the same mods, and another car with the same mods made pretty much the same power as me (was within 1kw)

if it is happening more when it is cold then it may be rnr. but remember that the VCT turns off at 4500rpm so you do get a bit of a flat spot there. to gap the plugs you need a feeler gauge. basically it is a set of small sheets of metal all different sizes. i personally think iridium spark plugs are a waste of time. the set in my old 33 were shagged after about 20,000kms. i put the ones listed above in and changed them after 10,000kms and they were still fine. they are only a few dollars a plug. as for there the tip of the plug is and marking it with a pen and trying to align it with the manifold, you may find that doesn't always work, without ending up with either it too loose or way too tight. however it shouldn't really make a difference as the valve will be closed well before the spark plug fires

LOL

but that could also come down to the tune, and if it was done on different days, etc. i have seen pfc tunes where they have put out less power than stock ecu's for the simple fact of the tune is dodgy. i compared a dyno sheet from my stock ecu with that of a with a pfc and his made a few kw more than my car throughout the rev range until about 5500rpm where his pretty much flattened out but mine kept going until it hit the speed limiter and so i ended up making about 20kw more.