mad082

first thing i would do is (when the car is cold) check your oil and coolant. if the coolant or the oil is milky then it is the headgasket. if the oil is black and the coolant is green, you are slightly safe, LOL. if either are low then you could still have an issue. if both are fine then it shouldn't be the headgasket........ but still can't rule it out. blue smoke is usually oil. white smoke is water and black smoke is unburnt fuel. water can only really come from the headgasket. however oil can also come from the turbo. i would probably say that your turbo is shot and once it is coming up on boost oil is leaking out the seals and going into the cylinders. this will foul up the plugs and also it doesn't burn as easilly as fuel. to check this pull off one of the intercooler pipes. if there is lots of oil in there it's new turbo time.

there are 2 types of rear suspension setups. there is the down hill style that will sag the moment you sit on it, then there is the cross country style that is designed to not move from weight down, but designed to articulate when the rear wheel is hit from the front. this way you don't lose any pedalling motion and don't suffer from 'bobbing'. things like the giant XTC NRS range (well that's what it was called back when i worked in a shop that sold giant). they give the feel of a hard tail when climbing but give a smoother ride. however you day pay quite a bit for a decent bike like this where it actually works. a lot of the cheap bikes try to copy the geometry but it doesn't work. these are the ones that have the main triangle as 1 piece and the shock is usually in front of the seat tube and is positioned vertically. like this

or if you are doing down hill racing. for cross country/road picking one would be like picking a f250 for city driving. sure it will do the job but costs more, isn't as efficient, more things to go wrong, and generally is just a waste.

ok just saw in another thread that you have split fire coils and platinum plugs. well firstly i would recommend getting rid of the plugs. not a fan of platinum plugs. do you happen to know what heat range they are? they may be too cold (or hot). also just because it has splitfires doesn't mean they aren't shagged. i know someone who had splitfires go bad on him. also to test the tps and afm all you need is a multimeter, or a consult cable (better option). with the multimeter you just tap in to 1 of the wires (not sure which one) when the igntion is on (car doesn't have to be started) and get someone to push the accelerator to the floor. it should read between 4 and 5v. the afm is a bit harder to test but again works off the same principle. you can only test it and idle and reving, you can't test it at full throttle unless on a dyno (or feel like sitting in the engine bay while driving, which i don't recommend, LOL). you could tap into it at the ecu plug though, but then you have to find the right wire. i would recommend getting a consult cable. they are about $50 or $60 (depending on which one you get) and there is plenty of free software to go with it. there is a member on here who sells them. then you can check afm and tps while driving as well as check the ecu for fault codes, etc.

i highly doubt it will be either of what you have said. without knowing your mods and boost level i'd say more than likely it is going to be a spark plug or coil pack issue. how old are your plugs? and do you know what sort they are and what gap they are? if you don't know i would recommend going to your local repco, autobarn, etc and getting some new plugs. the ones you need are part number BCPR6ES. they are ngk copper plugs and are about $5 or $6 each. put them in and see what happens. you have your coil packs out changing the plugs look at them for signs of arcing out. if that hasn't solved the issue then pull the coils back out and tape them up (there is a thread in here about how to do it somewhere). don't do it at the same time as doing the plugs otherwise if it fixes it you won't know what the problem was. then see if that causes the issue. if it makes it better but doesn't fix it then you need new coils. if you are running higher boost (about 11psi or more) on a stock ecu then you may be encountering rich and retard. this is a protection in the ecu which you can't get around without changing the ecu to an aftermarket one. however from my experience with rich and retard it normally won't happen throughout the rev range when you floor it. it sort of comes and goes as you rev up.

if you are in somewhere that gets snow, personally i would be going to a thinner oil. a 60 grade oil is a rather thick oil, especially when the rated oil by nissan is only about 30 i think (think it might be 7.5w30). so unless you have a lot of mods (which you don't) or the engine has done a lot of kms (which it hasn't) or has oil usage issues, i would get a thinner oil (it will also give you better fuel economy). for cold climates, especially if the car will be parked outside during the day at all and most definately if parked outside at night, i would suggest something with either a 0 or 5 cold viscosity and about a 40 or at most 50 hot viscosity. unless you really thrash the car a lot a 40w hot viscosity will be fine, since nissan only had a 30w oil as the standard recommended oil.

if it is the gasket it will usually be sort of a rattle sound (imagine hitting a metal gasket on on something really fast). it will usually happen when on boost as that is when the pressure is trying to push out and so opens up any gaps and allows the gasket to vibrate. if it is a gasket it could be coming from a few places. it could be the intake manifold, but more likely either the exhaust manifold, between exhaust manifold and turbo or between turbo and dump pipe. it is rather common to get borken manifold studs on the exhaust manifold so that is where i would be looking first. however you will usually notice a slight change in exhaust noise (depending on what stud is broken, etc). when the car is cold pop the bonnet and look at all the manifold studs (i say when it is cold because you may not be able to see them all and may need to feel under the turbo for 1 or 2 of them. also look for signs of carbon where it may have been leaking.

did you buy the car looking like that? cause i remember seeing one like that for sale aaaaaaaages ago. seemed to be for sale for a while if i remember correctly. but then most skylines are these days

and make the bike heavier, and cost extra to get the same quality bike, and are shit, LOL

i have used the ecutalk software on the pc with a consult cable and it is good.

just found all my dyno sheets, etc pulsar first magna (and people say that you can't get a smooth dyno graph from a stock ecu, LOL) second magna drag slip

i think he means tial

i think you may find that injector duty may be different. the SAFC is just a afm signal bender, but others like the emanage can alter the injector rates without just bending the afm signal (which also results in a timing change). the emanage just intercepts the injector signal from the ecu to the injector then alters it a bit to get the required injector duty.

stick it on a dyno and see if you make your peak power before redline. if you do then there is no point increasing the rev limit, especially by 1500rpm.

simple answer is yes. but there is no point. even on a turbo car they aren't the best idea (good yes, but there are much better alternatives), for various reasons. the simple fact is that your car will cool down more when moving. also you are cooling down your brakes, etc when moving and not letting it sit there with hot brake pads in the 1 spot on the rotor. if you do thrash your car you are better off doing a lap round the block driving like a grandpa than just pulling up and running the turbo timer for a minute or 2.

s1 has the ignitor at the back of the rocker cover. s2 has it built into the coils. that is why s1 and s2 coils are different and not a direct swap, and look a little bit different

i would more be thinking o2 sensors, as when they are unplugged it will run at that sort of fuel ratio all the time.

oh, so a FPR (fuel pressure regulator) hahaha o2 sensor doesn't alter the fuel settings at high load though. they are only used at low load to get better fuel economy. your car will actually run with it unplugged

ummm, he says he has a 3" turbo back system, so you would assume he has a new dump pipe...........

s1 and s2 ecu's are interchangable. they will both work in the same car. the ignition module is not part of the ecu therefore cannot affect how it runs. saying that it makes a difference is basically like saying altezza taillights will make your brakes stop working.

i fitted a 3037 badged 3076 with the 0.62 or 0.64 skyline pattern rear housing (can't remember which one) to a mates 33 a year or 2 ago and with a basic tune and about 17psi it made 251kw and the motor wasn't the healthiest specimen either. the turbo was from GCG i'm pretty sure doofy got a 3076 from a site sponsor the other day and it had the unslotted 0.70 A/R front on it so i said to him that it might be a 3082 but when he measured the ID it wasn't as big as the 3082. can't remember what exhuast housing he got, but it was 0.8 something

umm why? cables shouldn't stretch. they are prestretched in the factory. people who say they stretch (even people in bike shops) are idiots who don't know what they are on about. what actually happens is that the casing compresses, especially brake casing. gear casing is designed to be compressionless, but it does still compress a little bit. as for brake cables snapping, the biggest cause if cables snapping is actually the casing and the cable adjuster. if there is a burr on the end of the casing it will wear through the cable. but if it is fine then as i said before, they should last years. my old road bike still has it's original cables on and the guy that owns it now does about 300km a week, probably more. last time it was in here for tyres the speedo read over 7000km and that was probably 6 months ago

check for play then. it may be that the white stuff is ceramic dust. and you should look at running 98

i had mine running from there after i put my fmic on and i was having all sorts of boost spiking issues. moved it to the pipe from the turbo to the cooler and it held boost solid as a rock. the reason being that you end up with a longer hose so the pressure takes longer to get to the wastegate so the turbo will be creating more pressure than the wastegate is seeing for a short period of time. also having it from before the intercooler means that if your cooler creates turbulence resulting in increased restriction above a certain pressure your turbo isn't going to be working harder than you think. ideally you should have your boost gauge before the intercooler as well. if your intercooler was crappy and added restriction of 2 or 3 psi at 13psi and you have your gauge and wastegate line after the intercooler then you only think your turbo is running at 13psi but it is really running at 15 or 16psi and shortening it's life.

doesn't it have something to do with cruise control? edit: no wait, which plug are we talking about?