mad082

if i was ever to do a swap to themos i would use factory ones of a car that runs them rather than aftermarket ones. atleast then you know they have had some R&D into the design.

heat soak from the radiator shouldn't be too much of an issue for a few reasons, but mainly because of the fact that air is being drawn through the cooler, then through the radiator. using thermos would probably actually make the problem worse if they are hooked up like on some cars where they will turn off completely. clutch fans will always draw some air no matter the temp or engine speed. as for the piping, short is always better. it isn't just so the air has to travel a shorter distance, it is also less volume that has to be filled when opening the throttle. heat soak through the actual piping isn't really an issue as the air is travelling at a reasonable speed. a mate of mine had extremely short piping on his sr20 in his sigma. had a 450mm wide radiator between the headlights with the outlets at the top and the pipe basically went straight from the turbo to the cooler and straight from the cooler to the manifold. probably only 50cm of pipe each side. it was very short, much shorter than on most skylines. but on the sigma it was much easier to have a setup like that than on a skyline

top. the one from under the intake manifold to the radiator. that is the one with the thermostat in it so that is the one to put it in. that way you are seeing the temp of the water coming out of the engine, not the temp of the water going into the engine that has just been cooled by the radiator.

ok well firstly closed loop is when it runs leaner, open loop is when it uses more fuel (but doesn't dump it in). pretty much any time you accelerate at over about 1/3 throttle you will be in open loop. secondly the thermostat won't be affecting closed or open loop, it will be the cold start enrichment (basically the same as what a choke does on a caby engine). however i doubt that the slightly lower temp of the thermostat will have an effect on that. you car normally runs a few degrees above the actual thermostat temp. why are you wanting to change it? if your car is running at 88 degrees with your current thermostat i see no need to change. that is by no means high. you could get them up close to 100 degrees and still not be too worried.

you could unbolt the turbo but you will end with a car slower than a hyundai excel. a turbo motor isn't a NA motor with a turbo bolted on. it has lower compression. that is why at low rpm/off boost will NA motor will be quicker than a turbo.

yes you can. i drove round with it unplugged in my pulsar for ages. even stuck a wideband up the tailpipe to check AFR's. instead of running around 15:1 you will be running 11 or 12:1. so your fuel economy shouldn't be excessively more because when you floor it even with the o2 sensor plugged it ignores the o2 sensors.

it's not exactly 10psi, but close enough.

it will more than likely be due to moisture as guilt-toy said. first look for any pools of water around the plugs. if there is use a compressor to blow the water out or tissues to mop it up if you don't have a compressor. do this before removing the plugs. then take the plugs out and give them a wipe down with tissues, and do the same with the coils. stick it all back together and see how it goes

as has been said, your o2 sensor only controls the closed loop mapping. this is light throttle. once you give it the beans it will drop into open loop which is much richer mapping. this mapping isn't altered by the o2 sensor. however since you have a pfc, the mapping may be affected a slight bit more by the o2 sensor. but all that still ignores one main factor. that is that the boost is controlled by thw wastegate. so my guess is that when changing the o2 sensor something was bumped in the wastegate actuator that has slightly altered the boost. this may have been the dump pipe flexing when loosening ot tightening the o2 sensor, etc

yeah he has emailed microtechefi.com (and not microtech-efi.com which is actually mazfix which i think was who fixed the board last time) and has sent the ecu away to them. they suspect the ecu may have had a LTX board put in it and not had the sticker changed when it was fixed last time because of the fact that it will spark without an ignitor but not with an ignitor.

exhaust after the turbo won't really affect low down power unlike on a natro car. what other mods do you have? that will determine both how much power you will gain and whether it would need a tune or not. most likely not need a tune, and low boost levels probably see a gain of 20hp.

ummm, i will go and have a look tonight and find out. but i think he may have tried swapping them around. but would that explain why the rb20 coil will fire without an ignitor and not with an ignitor?

ok just double checked the model number. it's a LT12S. he also rang up a tuning company this morning to double check the compatiability of using the stock coils and they agreed it should work fine. he has wired up and tuned a few microtechs in the past so it isn't a lack of knowledge issue.

ok i'm posting this up for a mate. he has just wired a microtech (not sure on number but it is a LT, not LTX) into his ceffy (turbo rb25) and isn't getting spark... sort of. when it does all the self test it comes up fine. now i'll start the story from the start.... when he first bought it it was wired up for wasted spark but when he hooked it up it fried the drivers in the ecu. so he sent it away to microtech and got it fixed and was supposedly bench tested and worked fine. he has now got it back and wired up for normal spark. when he uses th stock s2 coils he gets no spark. when he uses rb20 coils with an ignitor he gets no spark, but when he uses rb20 coils and no ignitor he gets spark (he only has 1 rb20 coil though). he has gone over the wiring with a multimeter and test light and everything is getting enough voltage to fire but it won't. anyone got any ideas on why it won't run with the s2 coils. he was under the impression that the LTX had a built in ignitor but the LT didn't. pretty much been over everything we could think of so throw out any ideas you have

now you tell me, LOL i didn't use nos at all. i will have another go over the weekend sometime. i didn't really play with suspension setups at all. will have to buy another car since i have done stage 3 weight reduction now. or i will just try and beat it by a decent amount to make up for it, LOL i used to do the tokyo track all the time in the xr8 v8 supercar a few years back. that was on gt4 prologue. i worked at toyworld and we had it on a demo machine so every afternoon after we had packed up i would do a few laps while the cashup was done. used to be able to do sub 1:30 in it..... i think, LOL. that was about 6 years ago now.

it certainly has potential as it is making the power nice and low, it is just falling over up top. if it's pinging at anything over 13 degrees then there could be a few issues causing that. now people will probably post up ruling out most of this stuff, but i am just going through the "this is going to sound stupid but...." list of ideas first of all, could be a fuel issue. while the afr's overall may be ok, 1 cylinder may be serverely lean, possibly caused by a dirty/blocked injector. secondly, what plugs are you running? they may be too hot of a heat range. thirdly, it couldn't possibly be that the engine is a NA that has been swapped in at some point? that would explain the pinging at low timing. maybe get a compression test done. also the dyno graphs don't really appear to show any compressor surge as the boost reading seems pretty stable. maybe it is just your gauge that is a bit dodgy.

ahahaha, damn you beat me to it. i have a mate with a rx7. seems to be that you don't service them every few months (or 5000kms), you rebuild them, LOL. he once had to rebuild it after 6 months and it hadn't even been started.

it could be that you have a broken cam (have seen this before in a mates ca18) or there is a short in the CAS so that it is earthing out when bolted to the block. but i would be looking at other things first like voltage dropping when cranking

smoke at the back of the block could possibly be from a leaking rocker cover gasket. or simply a bit of oil was spilt when they filled it up. that should just burn off after a little while. noise could possibly be air in the water line from the turbo to the block, or the heater hose (did you have the heater on at the time?

k&n is over priced yet people will pay the same for an apexi one that flows less and doesn't filter as good?

oh ok

gotta say man, that is a f**king good time. the best i could manage with that setup was about 1:33 (but i only did about 6 laps). i had to go to stage 3 weight reduction and qualifying tyres to get into the 1:29's (which it only took me 3 laps to do, LOL)

you don't NEED a hose clamp, but it helps. i never had a hose clamp on my boost controller hoses and never had an issue with them coming off.

have you turned the screw back to the normal position before you turn the ignition off? i haven't even used the screw on the side of the ecu for diagnostics so not sure how it works. i use a consult cable plugged into the laptop.

there are more serious (and common) places water could come from, such as head gasket. i sort of read this 2 ways. 1 serious, 1 not. feel free to correct any bits i am wrong about (the water bit and the spark plug bit) not serious: water was surrounding the coil packs and plugs from washing the engine, etc. when you removed the plugs the washer from the base of the spark plug was missing. and now you have a miss fire more than likely caused by moisture trapped in the coil packs that is arcing out. solution would be to pull all the coils out and wipe out around the plugs with a rag or blow the water out with an air compressor and then wipe the coils down and let them sit near (not too close) a heater for a few hours to make sure they are dry then tape them up before you put them back in. the tapping noise is probably just the usual injector noise, a noisey cam or it was the coil pack arcing out, which will make a cracking noise that can sound like tapping. serious: water was surrounding the spark plugs for some reason. you took the plugs out and number 4 was missing the tip of the plug where the spark arcs to. this will mean it has fallen into the cylinder and made a massive mess of things (have seen what it does to a motorbike), which could even include the turbo. the tapping noise will be the tip rattling round in the cylinder still or possibly be something such as a nick on a valve from where the tip hit it. this is going to result in a rebuild being required (or swapping over your old engine) as the piston is going to look like someone has been hitting it with a nail punch. basically how serious it is will be determined by what bit of the spark plug you mean by "the little lip at the bottom"