mad082

only need lights and reflectors at night. during the day they can't book you. yes, big paddlin for the bike shop. it is a legal requirement that all bikes with 16" (or it may be 20") wheels and bigger be supplied with 2 brakes (even though the legal requirement is only 1), bells and reflectors. most shops that sell lots of high end stuff often leave the bells off as most people only take them off anyway, but the fine to the shop for not supplying the bike with them can be pretty big. the shops just keep the bells and sell them seperately. they do the same thing with bmx bikes. they often leave the front brakes off and charge you extra extra if you want them. and yes, the bell thing is a bit stupid as yelling "get the fuck out of the way!" usually works better than *ding* i should also see if i can out find if mudguards are still a legal requirement. they used to be but not sure if they still are. could be one of those laws that has slipped out of enforcement but is still a law.

yes, helmet fine is up around $100 now (well it is in qld). but vic roads should have most of the laws

that is included in the price of the board (well single user licence anyway). $200 for the board and $200 for the licence. so you are looking at $400 plus tuning. so even if it costs you $1000 in tuning you are still coming out ahead of just buying a vipec

why not put a temp sensor in the intercooler piping just after the turbo but before the intercooler and another one after the intercooler just before the plenum to see what the actual intake temp is and if it is affecting how the intercooler is doing it's job. if you really wanted you could have 2 on the cold side of the cooler, 1 just after the intercooler and one in the plenum to see if it is having any effect. but i would doubt it is having much of an effect as the air is passing pretty quick through the plenum and piping, but if it is causing the intercooler to heat up dramatically then you will be losing power.

did you try changing the fins in the black one you bought? it could also be to do with the way you have it plumbed in. have you also tried playing with the tension of the spring to see if that changes it?

you would think that if there was a restriction due to the cooler being crappy you would think the restriction should be there all the time and it should just slowly increase. it shouldn't just flick on like a light. may also be worth checking the core for any cracks, etc. to do that the best way is to cap the ends and have a tyre valve in 1 end and use a pump to presurise it and stick it in the bath or a drum of water. as for boost dropping off at higher rpm, i have changed boost controllers and found differences. i had a turbotech controller (the cheap one with the really big thread about it) and then i put a turbosmart dual stage on and at 14psi it was dropping about 3psi at high rpm. but the other one back on and i would drop about 1psi at high rpm (which was more the stock turbo running out of puff).

i have a question about indexing plugs. if you had to actually use a washer to index the plug, don't you run the risk of negating any gains due to the fact that you are moving the tip of the plug further from the mixture? i know that it is all compressed when the spark occurs, but wouldn't you want the tip to be a bit further into the combustion chamber to give a slightly more even and quicker burn?

no, basically it is like measuring up a hole in the wall to have a window made and having someone call out measurement in cm, and then changing the person giving the measurements and having them measuring in inches but not telling you, so you think when he says 5 he means 5cm, not 5 inches which is 12.7cm. you are going to end up with the wrong thing. as for how much power, you can generally get to about 250kw when they are getting close to maxing out. the people who said they were having it max out at under 200kw are incorrect. that would be the ecu packing up it's bat and ball and going home. it is called rich and retard and it is a safeguard in the ecu. it doesn't mean the afm is maxing out, just means the ecu doesn't like the amount of air going in at that load point in the map so it cuts out. i had this happen in my 33 when i wound the boost up. exactly. it is a little bit of a "hope for the best" type of situation as you are putting in the amount of fuel that it needs at the time of the tune, but if conditions alter a bit it can end up being not enough fuel (or too much)

where's your bell? $30 fine for not having a bell when riding on the road true story

my 33 had sort of a rubber paint (not sure if the r34 is the same) and it looked terrible around the power window switch on the drivers door so i sanded it off. ended up being almost the same colour and a nice hard plastic finish that was hard to mark

for the price you can't beat nistune. it gives you all the features you need as far as being able to change injector size, afm and do full adjustment of ignition and fuel maps. and most of all, full installed and tuned it will probably cost a lot less than just buying the vipec ecu, which would then leave money in your pocket for other mods

you could always get a bead welded onto the pipe to stop any chance of the pipe coming out. doesn't even need to go the whole way round. just 3 or 4 welds about an inch long at oposite sides will be enough.

and was it the stealth type or the standard type that comes up over the radiator?

i gather you mean the r32 v-spec II. there was just over 1300 of them built (compared to just over 1450 of the v spec I and over 40,000 of the base model), so they are sort of rare, but not super rare. in the later models there were much less base models than the r32 gtr and more v spec models. in the r34 there were less base models than the total number of v spec models.

enough to be able to go out and buy another one and do all the same mods to it, although in the case of the missus pulsar, i think it would probably take between 20k (enough to buy a very nice 180sx) and 80k or so, enough to buy an evo 10, LOL.

i will believe it when the numbers are confirmed. not saying it isn't possible or that it won't be fast, but all the info comes from the IAD press release. hasn't been tested by anyone else yet. also i think this will me be more of a straight line hero than a track car. it will be quick around a track but i think it will be too powerful to be super quick. i think round a tight track much less powerful cars will out perform it, kind of like how the veyron isn't that quick around a track.

pretty sure the r33 tank is about 65L. fuel light usually comes on with approx 10L to go, as with most cars.

not really much point spending a few hundred dollars buying a wideband o2 sensor for a stock car, as for about the same money he could buy something that actually alters the AFR's and gives a power gain.

if you want it gone quick you would have to sell it to a dealer and get about 4k for it. but i would say it is probably worth about 8k these days.

can you slide the pipe a bit further into the joiner, or even get the pipe cut a bit shorter. can you mount the cooler closer to the radiator?

oh dear son of rajab...... yes but how many litres do you actually put in. unless you drive until the car runs out of petrol. telling me what size the tank is is about as usefull as walking into maccas and saying you want a burger but not saying what type. or walking into a tyre shop and saying you want some tyres for a gtr but not saying what size wheels you have. +1 for crying out loud people, if you are going to post up asking about fuel economy, give us all the info. unless you run your car until it stops, a"tank" is not a measurement as what you class as a tank could be 10L different to someone else and that could work out to be nearly 100km difference in how far you would go.

with the stock ecu it can't really be tuned, but stick it on the dyno anyway to make sure everything is fine (AFR's)

what turbo are you running? if it is the stock, then you won't have to worry about the engine as the turbo will be the limiting factor

the motor and box alone is going to cost half of what a complete gts-t would cost. i'd say that for the cost of fixing it up and putting the turbo motor in you could buy a complete turbo 33 that already has bigger brakes, 5 stud, LSD, etc.

what sort of driving are you doing, and again, how many L's do you call a tank? also what ecu? if it is aftermarket it is probably just tuned to be lean down low in the areas where the o2 sensor normally works.