mad082

no it won't miss on idle if the coil packs are worn out. it will only do it once there is more load on them. that is why it only happens up high

ok well if it is holding boost up until 5500 then only rising after that, then it sounds like it is going to be a flow issue in the wastegate or dump pipe. also how much is it actually rising by? it may also be worth just moving the hose that goes to the wastegate to a different location just to make sure it isn't being caused by that. i have had issues with boost fluctuation because if it before.

this is going to sound a bit odd, but have someone watch the rear wheels when you turn the steering while sitting on the spot. a mate of mine had an issue in his 180sx where the wheels were turning as he turned the steering wheel. also is there any whining coming from the pump when idling or reving? by whining i mean that sound you often hear from vn commodores. possible causes i could think of are: low oil in the pump air in the lines pump is shagged hicas playing up

how long does it take for the car to come up to temp? it may be that your thermostat is on it's way out (or already gone) and causing it to run colder start enrichment for longer, or all the time. this will cause poor fuel economy, and the extra fuel can foul up the spark plugs. also what do you class as a tank? how many litres? saying "a tank" is a useless measure as different gauges will read differently so you might be calling 30L a tank or 50L a tank. put your economy into L/100kms

maybe try checking the ecu for fault codes, or get yourself a consult cable and drive around with someone watching the AFM voltage (or just datalog) to see if it is dropping out when it cuts out

well first i would take the wastegate off and try to push it open by hand (doesn't matter if the spring is in there or not). if it doesn't open then that is your problem. if you have the spring out of it it should move freely with little resistance. with the spring in it should take a pic of force (obviously). with the spring out and the wastegate on the car, theoretically there should be no boost (or extremely little) when driving. this is because most or all of the exhaust gases should be exiting through the wastegate rather than spooling the turbo. however because you only have a relatively small wastegate it may simply be that it cannot flow enough exhaust gas to not have the excess go through the turbo. and then the fact that the turbo is so small that the air going through it is travelling at high speed. as odd as it sounds, to a certain extent the lower the boost you want to run, the bigger the wastegate you need, especially with a small exhaust housing. this is because it takes so little amount of exhaust gas to spin the turbo and create boost, but there is a lot of it coming out of the cylinders that the wastegate has to work much harder than a big turbo running high boost. when you say your wastegate pipe is like diagram 2 but on less of an angle, do you mean more like pic 3, or less of an angle being more flat? if it is more like diagram 3 then that is probably also not helping the situation.

that is so they have superfast internet to order pizza with

i'm on 1500 through telstra, LOL.

he has an external gate, so i highly doubt it is actually fouling as they work more like a bov. just reading on the instructions for the wastegate, which spring are you using? the outer purple spring is a 7psi spring and the outher blue spring is 10 psi. the white inner spring is 7psi. now for the obvious questions and you have the hose from the cooling piping or where ever hooked up to the lower section? have you actually tried to open the wastegate by pushing on it? and finally, which of these best resemble your setup as far as the angle of your wastegate pipe is

again this is a bit of a misconception. a mate of mine put his 33 on the dyno (remapped ecu) and started off making about 200kw at 13psi and then kept winding the boost up and stopped at 16psi (didn't want to go any higher) and he was making 220kw. so while it might not be overly safe to go above 12psi, you will still make power. i was also running my 33 at 14psi for about a year (with the remapped ecu) and never had an issue, and the power was definately more than at 11psi. wound it down 1 day and wound it up after about 20 mins because it felt so boring.

i got 204kw out of the stock ecu and i was on the limit of R&R, but i was getting it like someone said above, a full cut of power for a split second, not just a slight loss of power. and when it happened in 2nd gear at about 60kmh at WOT, when it kicked back in it started to fry the rear tyres, LOL. i was checking to see if it was going to do it on the drive there so i could lower the boost if necessary... which it was. i was getting it on the drive on the way out to the dyno as i had it on 13psi and dropped it to 12psi and it was fine. afr's were all good though. around the 11's which isn't bad for a stock ecu. once i got a remapped ecu for it never had the issue again. the first time i encountered it was the night i put my boost controller on. was slowly adjusting it small turns at a time and it didn't seem to be going up at all so i gave it a full turn and then boost went up to 15psi, got to about 3500rpm and it cut out and kicked back in just about giving me whiplash.

now i'm not the most knowledgable person on this forum when it comes to turbos, but i would assume that the smaller rear housing should be limiting the boost as it would be choking more than a larger housing. i know that being smaller will make the gases flow faster but if the wastegate is going it's job then the gases shouldn't be getting to the turbine wheel to over boost. my guess is that has to do with either the wastegate size (bigger wastegate will let you run lower boost as it can flow more air therefore letting less go to the turbo to raise boost), header design or something fouling in the dump pipe to block it or possibly something blocking the vaccum (boost) line from the cooler piping (or where ever you have it mounted) to the wastegate. i agree with taking the springs out of the wastegate to effectively run no boost and see what happens

i think the only problem with any either the 1jz and the 2jz is that the exhaust is on the drivers side so can have issues with it clearing the steering, but would certainly be worth a look

as nismoid said, they are different. series 1 (93/94 models) coils will work. have you tried taping up your coils? this may help (there is a DIY on the forum somewhere about it). but you said putting new plugs in worked so why would you then think it is the coils? it was obviously the spark plugs (to a large extent). what plugs did you put in and what gap? if the gap was 1.1mm (usually the plug will end with the number 11 such as BCPR6ES11) then try gapping them down to 0.8mm. if the plug didn't have a number on the end it should be 0.8mm to start with.

um, not sure if it is the same as a 33 (pretty sure it is though). if it is it should be listed in the book (i know for a fact that the r33 is listed in their current book) but if they are using an old book the 33 sensor is the same part number as a n15 pulsar SSS (2.0L) part number OZA395-E2

oh god, not another person that thinks that......... at times like this i hate the internet

i recall reading somewhere that the head studs are different sizes but can't remember which is bigger.

this is due to the extra load once you get on the gas. very few missfires happen at low load

the extra 1psi shouldn't really make any difference. there should be enough data in the mapping to easily compensate for 1psi extra.

3076r plus rb25 will see at least 250kw and the turbo should only cost you about $2000. keep away from ebay turbos. i know people who have used them and got less than 200km of highway driving out of them. no point spending the money to only have to keep spending money.

yes but a ls2 with twin turbos = big power plus something an rb26 can't achieve, big torque

yeah all fwd cars run (usually) twin thermos and as you said the new commodores and falcons. there are plenty of turbo pulsars, lancers, (not sure about wrx's) etc putting out decent power with the stock thermo fans.

i bought a dump pipe second hand of a forum member cheap that had an alignment issue with the wastegate pipe, but i just hit it up with the die grinder and fixed it so i didn't mind. but i have a lot of dealings with chinese made products through work (bike industry) and it seems to be not so much of a quality control issue but an issue with the client (person buying from the factory) wanting it to be nice and cheap rather than a bit more expensive and better quality, or may also be a case of simply not shopping round with different factories to find one that does it at the right price that is also decent quality. in the bike industry a very large portion of spare parts are made in china or taiwan. a lot will actually come out of the same factories. in some cases you will get identical parts (design, finish, quality all identical) yet one will be half the price as the other simply because 1 has a good brand name on it and 1 with no brand on it. on the other hand you may get a different brand item for the same price as the cheaper version but from a different factory that is absolute rubbish. the same goes for big W bikes. yes they are made in china, but i have $1000 bikes on the floor made in china as wll but the quality difference is astounding. now a lot of the parts on the bike will determine the price, but if you take off all the parts that contribute most of the cost and look at things like frames or rims, there is still a massive difference in quality of materials, welds, paint, etc despite both being made in china. the difference being that big w (well pacific brands who supplies the bikes to big w) has gone into the factory and said that they want a bike with the cheapest of everything put on them with a frame made out of the cheapest grade tubing they can get away with. it is kind of like how if you were to go into a panel beaters and say you want a very basic respray, the cheapest job they can do, you can't then say that that place is crappy if you compare it to a show car paint job done at another place. if you had paid the first place more you would've got a better job. this seems to also go for stuff made in china. but then occasionally you will get stuff ups that you just can't understand. a mate of mine who imports bike parts has had a few of these recently. basically just to do with packaging, not the quality.

don't know what the difference was as he set it up like that when he did the conversion

i had an issue with my car running hot and it was sitting at 93 degrees and the std clutch fan wasn't fully engaged at that temp. if you are starting to run hot you will hear the roar of the clutch fan as it fully engages. but even it fully engages well before you are at critical temps.