mad082

pretty sure they are the same. the very best way to do it is to buy a consult cable and reset it that way. it actually costs money to do but gives you a valuable piece of equipment that allows you to also monitor things like the AFM o2 sensor, etc as well as read fault codes without having to count a flashing light

i have been in.......... i think 4 r33's or various series (1, 1.5 and 2) and non have done it.

this really depends on the ECU. most stock ecu's these days have a self learn function (some have 2) and resetting the clears these and puts the mapping back to the way it came from the factory. i think it can also sometimes clear fault codes, but this isn't always a good thing unless you are resetting it via a consult cable and have read the fault codes first. my understanding (and what i have been told by mechanics) is that the self learn function remembers your driving style and alters the settings ever so slightly. so if you drive like an old lady all the time it would learn this and give you better fuel economy, etc. if you drive at 100% throttle everywhere it will add in a bit extra fuel to make sure it isn't going to lean out, etc. this can have an effect on your fuel economy if you buy a car from someone who drove it hard and then you start driving like an old lady. the 2 self learn systems are a long term and short term memory. the long term calculates an average from when the ecu was last reset and the short term is obviously a shorter period of time, but i'm not sure it if is just since the car was turned on last or if it is the past few trips. but an average of the 2 are then used to slightly influence the ignition and injector settings, especially for light load/cruise where it is in closed loop and is reading off the o2 sensor. so if you just bought a car it could be worth resetting it, or if you get poor fuel economy no matter how you drive it might be worth resetting it, or if you have done major mods (such as fitting a full exhaust or changing boost levels, etc). if you have reset it in the past and haven't changed your driving style or done any mods to the car then there is no point doing it. i know people who have gained 10 to 20% better fuel economy by doing it.

moodles2 is correct. the afm reads how much air is passing through it and injects the required amount of fuel according to the map. so anything under the boost it was tuned for it should run totally fine, and if done properly there should be a little bit of play allowing you to go over a bit too.

by dents i meant that the downforce and weight of the wing or how it is bolted in has made dents where the wing actually sits. it has pushed into the boot. it could just be the photo, but in the photo it really does look dented at the base of the left left hand side of the left support of the wing

46/16 gearing, don't know price, will come with brakes (legal requirement in australia)

i just got an email from one of my suppliers saying they are getting in a shipment of fixies. they are from a bmx company. seems to be running some pretty good gear. full chromoly frame, forks, bars, sealed bearing wheels, cranks, headset. it is styled like a bmx. it has one of the best bmx chains on the market on it, bmx grips, seat and post

the emanage ultimate with a plug and play harness will do ignition. an emanage ultimate with a harness will set you back about $1000 plus tune.

nope, still got them.

if it was me i would be just putting a nistune daughterboard into the stock rb20 ecu and going that way (depending on just how cheap the PFC you found is). it will require you to use the rb20 loom, but my mechanic said that is how he would do it if he was to do the swap again (recently put a rb25 into his ceffy)

666dan messaged me back saying that it does plug in but you get a few errors due to different sensors, but it could be done. just thinking about it (the downloading the BIN file issue) how different are the tunes on the NA r33 to the r34 NA, and could you use a r33 one as a base and then just alter it from there?

oh yeah, didn't think of that

an air fuel controller will give you both power gains and fuel economy gains, depending on how your car is currently running. if you car is currently running rich then you will get gains. if your car is currently running close to ideal AFR's then the gain will be minimal. it comes down to individual cars. i would stick your car on a dyno first and find out what sort of AFR's you are currently running as this will give you an idea of what sort of gains can be had. the other thing that can affect how much you gain is the fact that air fuel controllers such as the safc simply bend the AFM signal. this also alters the timing so you can get pinging before you get to the ideal AFRs. something like an emanage ultimate allows you to alter the timing and fuel seperately (more like a stand alone ecu) giving larger gains, but it does cost more.

the filling up with fuel in the morning thing is a bit of a myth. the tanks are underground so don't get affected by the heat of the day very much (or the cold overnight). in fact during the night they would be heated by the warmth of the ground in the same way that the houses in coober pedy are underground and don't require heating or cooling. also it takes a very large amount of energy to alter the temp of a large body of liquid that isn't getting direct sunlight. the other problem is that if you fill up on a cold morning your tank won't hold quite as much fuel (minutely smaller amount). this is because metal contracts (shrinks) when it is cold and expands when it is hot. as for cooling the fuel in the lines, that would mean denser fuel.

nope

well uras says he uses r34 turbo ecu's with the daughterboard in NA+t's so you would assume that it should be a reasonably simple swap, and then you could just get a daughterboard put into the turbo ecu and load all the NA data onto it. i have pm'd uras and also 666dan for more info on how compatiable the turbo ecu is with the NA loom. but if it works it would be much cheaper than a full ecu, and provide just as good results.

what do you have (you may have said it but i have forgotten) and yes i have ridden plenty of high end dual suspension bikes, from shitters to top of the range stuff. i have ridden high end bikes that sagged over an inch just from sitting on the seat. i have ridden cross country ones that didn't move at all when bouncing on the seat but once i got up the street and went over the speed bump it did.

step 1: buy turbo step 2: lift bonnet step 3: throw turbo into the engine bay step 4: close bonnet

yeah wasn't sure about it. on the nistune website they have the turbo ecu but no mention of the NA. how different are the ecu pinouts and would it be possible to plug a turbo ecu in and load all the data back on to it? (use the nistune software to retrieve the data from the NA ecu then put it onto the turbo ecu then tune from there)

i just had a look at the big picture of the rear. there are some nice dents where the wing sits............

exhaust and ecu. if there is money left over then suspension. (look into whether a nistune daughterboard from a turbo 34 can be used in a natro 34 ecu as this will make it much cheaper than a stand alone ecu and give good results in both power and economy) lowered suspension will only help with handling in the corners. in a straight line you will get better acceleration from stock suspension. this is because it transfers more weight onto the rear wheels giving more grip. this is why drift cars have stiff suspension and drag racers have soft. also stiffer suspension on rough roads can also result is less traction as it will bounce rather than absorb the bumps. so if where you live has crappy roads, chose your suspension carefully.

i used to get a slight alternator whine from the stereo when it was turned right down but not off. sounded like an electrical whine and got louder with rpm not speed. was only just noticable

i just remembered that a mates 33 i put a emanage ultimate into had a dodgy harness and when bumped it would just die completely and nothing would work. it was like it had a flat battery. just had to push the harness into the ecu's nice and firmly and it was fine.

my mate had a similar issue with his ceffy after he put in his rb25 and didn't have the dash connected up. there must be a resistor in the dash (or somewhere between the ecu and the speedo sender) that reduces the voltage as my mates ecu was hitting the speed limiter. but i don't think it was actually shutting down. maybe there is an issue with the AFM that is putting it into limp more. i would suggest getting a consult cable for about $60 and check the ecu for fault codes. the electrics shouldn't shut off if it is simply a leaking bov, etc. actually i hust had a really funny thought. if it is happening at a regular interval, it could be his turbo timer if he has one. there could either be a fault in the ignition wiring that is making it think the ignition has been turned off, the turbo timer may be faulty, or the turbo timer may be wired up incorrectly.

you could just fill up the hose with silicone or jam a fat screw in the hose (just make it is bigger that the nipple on the manifold so it can't get sucked in) of just put the PVC into the closed position and drop in some superglue