mad082

i had an issue with my solenoid. when i first got the car it wouldn't go above 5psi. next morning before work i tried touching the power wire of the solenoid with a wire straight from the 12v source to the fuse box to make sure the solenoid was working. i could hear it clicking when i touched it. then on my way to work it was 7psi all the time even though it was still wired up normally. i hadn't grounded it or anything. just had temporarily touched the wire with a 12v source. and i'm not disputing what happened with your car, just making a point that all the people who seem to have it happen, but i never had it, and according to how a wastegate should work, it shouldn't be going on unless there is a restriction in the dump pipe that is restricting the air coming out of the wastegate meaning more air has to come out past the wheel. this would create a higher boost as the wastegate opening more isn't going to make much difference because of the restriction. but normally what should happen, regardless of how free flowing the exhaust or intake is, is that the all exhaust gases spin the turbo, this creates pressure. once the pressue is up to the level that the wastegate it is set to it starts to open thus limiting the amount of exhaust gases spinning the turbo and limiting the boost. if you increase the amount of gas coming out the exhaust, the moment they start making the turbo spin faster and increase the pressure, the wastegate should open more thus dropping the boost back to desired level.

i was getting 14psi by mid 2000's. i have always found this rather interesting since the boost should be controlled by the wastegate so technically you shouldn't be able to run any more than 5psi with no boost controller as the wastegate should open. i know that when i didn't have a boost controller on for a day when i had full exhaust done and fmic i was only getting 5psi.

i love how everyone's first thought is rich and retard even though he says it was worse when the car was standard. when i experienced rich and retard when i first put on my boost controller and it was set to 14psi, it wasn't like a slight flatspot. it was like the key had been turned off then back on. it was a violent cut of power. there is usually a bit of a flat spot around 4500rpm when the vct switches off. i used to notice it most in 3rd gear or in second gear going up a steep hill, with both a remapped ecu and stock ecu

it isn't coming from the rear tyres? LOL

i have to disagree with you about it not making power above 12psi. a mate of mine put his stock turbo'd 33 on the dyno and just started winding the boost up (aftermarket ecu obviously). started at 200kw at 13psi and the power kept rising until they stopped at 16psi whnere it was making 220kw. i also ran my stock turbo at 14/15psi for quite a while with no issues either, and it felt much more powerful than 11psi. i wound it back down one day and it felt much less powerful.... so i wound it back up. as for the r34 turbo, they don't have steel wheels unless they have been highflowed. the series 1 r33 turbo has steel compressor wheels but they all have ceramic exhaust wheels. the r34 is a bigger turbo than the 33.

i have used a s1 ecu in a s2. worked fine

not a bad buy

they last longer cause they are a hard compound. which also means they won't grip as good. softer tyres will grip better but wear out faster. and because skinnier tyres have less surface area they make them out of softer compounds

you MAY fit 2.5's on, but there is a very good chance they will rub the frame, and if you ever get the slightest buckle they will rub. also i think you might be a bit off with your 5cm each side of the current tyre as your current tyre will only be 5cm wide so you are saying that you have the same size gap on each side of your tyre as the width of your tyre. and i just measured up a 2009 altitude and it would come pretty close to scrubbing both sides. but why do you want such fat tyres? they will make you roll much slower than what you currently have. if you are only riding on the road look at either the ones rowan linked or something like the michelin XC or XCR road tyres (pretty much the same as the maxxis ones rowan linked) or the new michelin city if you want something a bit wider in a slick. or look at some of the touring tyres from conti.

i think you are onto something with the self esteem bit. i don't think girls like this happy with themselves deep down, and may have possibly have had issues with a male person early in life, hence the "love me, love my car or get f**ked" type of attitude and the apparent need to be better than guys. these are usually the types that seem to never be able to find a guy that (by their super high standards) treats them right or isn't too controlling, etc, which is usually because of 2 things. 1: the type of guys they pick are the tough guys that suit the image they themselves are trying to portray (and they type of attitude that attracts the girl ends up being what causes the issues) and 2: they aren't willing to compromise. they want to do whatever they want and no one should stop them and if they don't like it they can leave, but then their partner can't do anything they (the girl) doesn't want them to do. i know a few girls like this. unlike a normal person, whether they be male or female, who will accept their limitations, these girls will try to do everything to prove that they are just as good as anyone at everything. i know guys who won't work on their missus' car because if something goes wrong they get the blame for it even if they didn't touch it (for example lets say if he changed the oil and then the next week an intercooler pipe came loose, it would be his fault). some also won't accept help if they are trying to do something and can't get it to work. for example if she is working on the car and can't get a bolt undone because she isn't strong enough, if he tries to help she will go off at him. as for the doing up cars in stupid ways bit, i think it is simply because they have such little knowledge on the matter and are trying to take such a big leap into it. you see guys doing very similar things, but they seem to get away with it a bit more as they are usualyl 16, LOL. guys get into cars a bit earlier so by the time they get to the stage of having their licence and then getting a decent car they already have a bit of a basic understanding. you could sort of compare it to how kids these days can hop on a computer and know their way round pretty well in a short amount of time, but if you get an old person on a computer they take much longer to get the hang of it. boys usually have things as a kid that they work on (even just things like changing the tyre on a bike) that sort of starts to gear their brain up to be a bit more accomodating. another thing is that i think girls feel intimidated and feel like they are getting treated like they are stupid because they are female, not because they are infact doing something really stupid. they sort of view it as being sexist when it isn't, in the same way that a black guy that has just been caught red handed stealing something will start saying that the cops are racist and are always picking on him, not taking into account that they pick on him because he keeps breaking the law.

don't want to be a wet blanket, but around the streets, your NA motor will probably feel faster than your turbo motor until you hit about 6000rpm when you start to make boost, at which time your tyres will instantly start spinning and you will end up spinning off the road into a tree. so while you might think you'll get more satisfaction from sitting in a 500kw skyline, the satisfaction will only come from sitting in it, not from driving it round the streets, because as was said earlier, you WILL get beaten off the lights by a hyundai excel, and left for dead by stock skylines and commodores due to your lag followed by uncontrollable wheelspin. and i'm not joking about the NA feeling faster. i used to have a 180sx and a SSS pulsar at the same time. both sr20, one turbo, one natro. out of corners at low rpm the pulsar would pull away without any problems at all. once the 180sx started to come on boost it would slowly start catching up, but the pulsar was already well ahead. and with you putting on such a big turbo you are only going to make it take even longer to get power as it won't make any boost until high in the rev range. this will mean that going up steep hills you will find yourself dropping back gears because even with your foot planted to the floor you still don't have enough revs to make boost and give you any power. as for just running lower boost round the streets, a big turbo at low boost will make less power than a smaller turbo at the same boost. and the smaller turbo will make boost sooner, so be better to drive and be faster. oh and your car is a NA (GT) to start with, so doesn't that mean that all the brakes, etc, are smaller than on the GT-T? so i hope you are going to be upgrading that stuff too, otherwise when you do find a long enough stretch of road to open it up, you aren't going to stop once you get to the end of it.

NOTICE: there has been a recall on certain norco bikes purchased 2007 and later. pretty much mostly downhill bikes. look on the norco website for details. they have what the serial numbers are of the affected bikes.

if they are the same spec (meaning same model gears, etc) then the extra money is simply going into someones pocket other than your own. that is why when someone says that a certain brand bikes are shit, it is pretty stupid, especially in the higher end stuff where they will all be pretty much running the same gear (including frames).

yeah to a large extent bikes are very much pay for what you get. but then at the same token, if you get 2 bikes with identical spec, but a $100 price difference, go for the cheaper bike.

to be honest, frame warranties aren't worth looking at. as long as it is at least 12 months you will be fine. they are only for manufacturer defects which should either be picked up before it leaves the shop or within the first few rides. also cannondale are pretty shocking when it comes to warranty claims. because they have such a reputable name, they don't give a shit about warranty because they know that no matter how shit their service is people will still buy their bikes. the same goes for their pricing. sure they are good bikes, but they charge you top dollar. $750 isn't a bad price though. that is partly because (i'm 99% sure) the F6 is an 08 model not an 09 (don't think they did it this year) so it hasn't been subject to price rises like the 09 stuff. so compared to 09 stock it is well priced, but compared to other 08 stock (when both at RRP) it lacks behind a bit in the quality of components

you could have the same effect by just not changing gears on the crx

ummm, why would you remove the parcel shelf in a 33 when you can access the rear struts from the boot? i even rang me mechanic who recently pulled a set of hks coilvers out of his wrecked 33 to double check.

because they are different. basically they are just a big bmx with small bars. they are a trend. they sell because they are different, not because they are good. just like girls who wear those stupid big sunnies. they buy them because it is fashion, not because they actually look good. or it's like an iphone....... LOL

flat/down hill speed you will be quicker on the alias because you have taller gears that you can change into to go faster. more so on the down hill rather than flat. the crx you will be faster uphill, flat and downhill than the alias.

how much you like the bowery will depend on whether you run the freewheel cog or the fixed wheel. fixed wheels take a fair bit of getting used to as the pedals turn whenever the wheel does. this means no jumping gutters etc unless you are extremely talented. however doing wheelie's backwards certainly impresses people. depending on how flat it is around where you ride will also determine how much you like the bowery. only having 1 gear means that it will be ok if it is flat, but if it is hilly you will have a bit more trouble. and you say that having the bikes too much the same may mean that you like 1 more than the other, having 2 bikes totally different may mean that you hate 1 and love the other and may not want to ride 1 at all. at least if they are similar the amount that you prefer one over the other won't be much. and it isn't like you are using them for 2 completely different things, like 1 for cross country or downhill and 1 for road where 2 completely different bikes are what you need. you are pretty much using them both for the same thing.

i used VMX80 in my 33 and it didn't make a difference to any noises it had (if anything it made them worse). didn't put any nulon stuff with it though.

all sitting in your driveway for 5 mins with the car running does is waste fuel. yes your engine will be warm but your gearbox will still be stone cold. if you drive like a grandpawhile the car is dead cold and then as it slowly comes up to temp you can slowly start to drive a bit more normal. and the engine actually takes much longer to warm up when it is sitting there idling than when being driven slowly. if your thermostat is working properly your car should be getting up to temp within 2 or 3km unless it is a very cold morning. the squeak could be caused from a dry pivot bolt inside the gearbox. the pivot bolt is what the clutch fork pivots on. it is accessed via the rubber seal where the clutch fork goes into the box. some spray grease or silicone spray is good to use as it stays there a bit longer. anything that comes with a long nozzle is best as you can get it to the desired area. as for the difficulty going into gear, that will be due to worn synchros and is more noticable when cold. try taking it a bit more easy or try double clutching. the gearbox will be lubed up after a few rotations of the wheels but it will still be cold.

don't think it should be. but couldn't really say for sure

yeah they have been ordered. once they land in the country they will be automatically sent to me then i will contact you

yeah. used to be under a different brand to please the snobby brand orientated people. but then about 2 years ago they decided to put it under the apollo banner to lift the profile of apollo. so now it is the apollo raceline series. i think it used to be raceline by apollo. basically all that has changed is the stickers, LOL. they are still spec'd by the same people.