mad082

nice blue 2 door v35 is parked across the street. not bad. not bad at all

you still in diagnostic mode?

yeah that is what mine was like. you can see the eprom holder takes up the space the between the chip and the white line when you compare the 2 pics. but the speedo will usually be reading past 180. both my 180sx and my 33 hit it on the dyno but the speed was reading about 10-20kmh past it (well the speedo only went to 180 but the gap was equivalant to 10 to 20kmh)

after i oiled i my filter i hit it with an air gun to blow all the excess oil off. i have used k&n filters on about 6 of the cars i have owned and never had an issue. never had any visible oil on the afm or anything like that.

what ecu? it could be an issue where the ecu is cutting back timing/fuel and it simple can't make boost.

so are you saying that the tip of the spark plug is no longer there? if so that is not a good thing at all and as everyone said, get it towed to a mechanic, although considering it is probably already rebuild time you could probably drive it, LOL

mine looked different to that when it was remapped. it was like coxie's but the top big black square chip with the white line around it was sitting in a little chip holder that went all the way out to the white line coxie your ecu "appears" to be stock. how did you know there was no speed cut? the stock speedo will usually be reading well past 180kmh (usually about where you would expect 200kmh to be) before it actually cuts out due to speedo error. and how big is your turbo, and how hard did you push it at 15psi? if you wound it up gently it may still cope with 15psi and not cut out. if you floored it and it didn't cut out then that is rather interesting.....

yeah but those sorts of idiots will do that to any sort of car no matter what it is. and i have had 2 3rd gen magnas. both 3.5L manuals.

get either a r32 actuator or a cheap turbotech controller. much cheaper than an electronic boost controller (so you can put the extra few hundred dollars towards other mods), and work just as well and easier to set up.

problem with the cat/exhaust? a mate had the rear honeycomb section in his cat break and it had turned sideways and was blocking the hole so that with the wastegate hose disconnected on his 3076 it was boosting up to 16psi and dropping back to 12psi at redline. is the intake pipe being sucked shut? is there a blockage in the intercooler piping? this wouldn't show up on a pressure test. does it make any funny sounds? could be an exhaust leak in the manifold

just make sure it is done by someone who knows what they are doing or you will just end up with a bigger hole

if you are having serious engine movement issues (and aren't running big power) i would be looking at the cause of it (shagged engine mounts) rather than putting a flex pipe in.

yes it sounds like either spark plug or coil pack issue. start with new plugs. if that doesn't help tape up the coils (there is a thread on here about how to do it). if that still doesn't work then it will more than likely be time for new coils. i wouldn't go heat range 5 plugs. they are too hot and will just cause pinging due to higher cylinder temps. either BCPR6ES or BKR6ES are the 2 options. both will cost about the same and do the same job. ran both types in my 33

i just realised that the OP said he has a NA gt-t. didn't realise that they made naturally aspirated gt-t's, LOL.

why not get a manual magna or vrx, LOL. they will get you into the 130kw at the wheels range with just exhaust, and will run mid to high 14 second 1/4's. only downside is that they don't really suit boy racers cause they aren't a fully sick skyline and are fwd. they don't torque steer much at all, are cheap to insure and best of all they don't really attract the boys in blue or idiots wanting to race you.

the ecu's don't really rely on the map sensor. the fuel cut (known as rich and retard) is activated by the afm signal. once it gets to certain parts of the map the ecu says "oh no you don't sonny" and dumps in a heap of fuel and backs off the timing.

spotted yet another gympie fuckwit with a fake gtr badge. maroon 33 with a lip spoiler and a big spoiler as well. that takes the tally to 2 x 33s and 2 x 34's with fake gtr badges in gympie. that would be close to 50% of all the skylines here having fake gtr badges. the next one i see i'm going to yell at for being such a stooge

will do. they have been specialling out some of the 2009 models that they have plenty of...... but thhe prices have all been higher than what they were when i bought my stock, LOL.

oh and all the 2010 ranges from every brand will be out about august. however at this stage prices are looking to be more than the 2009 range, but i have seen very few prices yet so it is a bit hard to tell. it will also come down to what the dollar is doing at the time the company has to pay for the stock. they don't all pay for them at the same time, so with the dollar fluctuating at the moment there could be pretty large differences in prices caused purely by that. i am supposed to be getting order forms through in the next few days for more of the 2010 range so will be able to give a better idea of what 2010 prices will be like compared to 2009 then. but so far all the ones i have seen so far (only a few smaller brands) have been an increase of about 20%. but it will be late this month, early next month when i go and see the higher end range of bikes when i will get the best indication of what they will be like price wise. the lower end stuff that i have seen so far seems to vary a bit more than the higher end stuff. but i would say that from the info i have been hearing over the past few months, there may be some large differences in prices from different brands. the main reason for this is that some brands are specing the bikes to be exactly how they want them regardless of price, while others are specing them to a price point. now while you would think that 2 bikes spec'd the same should be similar prices, that is generally true, but some brands will put on cheaper brand parts such as grips, seats, tyres, etc, (which doesn't always mean cheaper quality since so many parts these days are identical and just have a different name stamped on them) which don't really make a difference to the bike quality overall, but can alter the price by a bit due to the fact that they have at least 3 lots of mark-up put on them between the factory floor and the showroom floor and it is all done by percentage amounts not by a fixed dollar amount. so using the mark-ups i do know and guessing on others, a $10 price difference at the factory could work out to anywhere between $50 and $100 dollars difference to the RRP price.

i didn't know tektro even made a bike, LOL. you don't mean the SE lager? ugly red and black thing? or ugly plain white thing? pretty sure i can get white chains, but again they are only for single speed bikes, not geared bikes. don't think anyone makes a coloured 1/2" x 3/32" chain. 5 to 9 speed geared bikes run 1/2" x 3/32" chains, race bmx/single speeds will sometimes run that size, yet slightly wider (the overall width of the chain is still 3/32" but the width of the pins is skinnier with higher gears and the link bows out between the pins. 3/32" single speed chains and 5, 6 and some 7 speed chains will have straight links with no bow in them), while street bmx and kids bikes run 1/2" x 1/8". 10 speed, as in 10 cogs on the rear, run 1/2" by 11/128" chains. and motorbikes and some stupid bmx bikes run 1/2" x 3/16" chains.

personally i wouldn't go the 58 frame even if you could get one (which they don't actually do in the bowery, they do it in the flat bar road bikes, like the CRX here which is available in a 58.5, but have a different rear end and can't by used as a single speed). you have to remember that where you sit your hands on the bars of a road bike is about 50 to 60mm (or more) further away than where they are on the alias. the top tube of the alias in longer but once you take into account the stem length they are about even but then the handlebars make it further away. also the slightly lower head tube makes it sit lower which will also make it a bit further away. i used to have a 55cm road bike and i found it long and i'm 6ft 3. the biggest thing is that the longer you go the more of a sore neck you get. the longer it is the more flat your back is and the more you have to lift your head to look ahead so you get a sore neck. i even had my stem flipped over to give more height.

if you want a purple chain i can order you one. can't be used on a geared bike though. can also get red and blue and i'm pretty sure pink too.

to start with forget the tricky start offs and balancing. just start sitting on it near a post or something like that to lean up against. have the seat nice and high so that when the pedal is at it's lowest point your leg is nearly straight (like on a road bike). have the pedals at 45 degrees from horizontal so you get a good push off. relax your legs when you pedal so that all your weight is on the seat. i found that when learning my legs were too tense and i wasn't pedaling smoothly as i was trying to hold myself up and pedal at the same time. onec i started putting all my weight on the seat i was able to ride much better. what size wheel did you get? 20" seems to be the easiest to learn on. 24" you go too fast when you pedal and 16" you don't go fast enough. yeah they are heavy as hell for riding round town.

i think the big issue here is that the cost of manufacturing things up to fit is going to make it more expensive than just dropping a rb25 in which will give it more power (10kw more just in stock form and it's much easier to get power out of the rb25 without the engine packing it in than the betsy motor). also the suprcharged motors are only available in auto so if you want a manual you will have to go new flywheel, etc. now i'm not saying it's a stupid idea as i think doing things differently is great, but in this case i think that the time and effort isn't going to achieve any gains, or even be as anywhere near as good as the commonly used ideas. the rb25 or a twin cam rb30 is going to give more power for the money as well as take abuse much more. the supercharged commodore motors (and the non supercharged motors as well) don't handle power upgrades that well without adding in a lot of extra bolt ons, unlike a rb25 that will gain 60 or 70hp just by going exhaust, fmic and winding the boost up and won't really shorten its life at all. the advantage with going to a ls1 is that the engine is lighter than the stock motor due to it being all alloy, and it sits nice and far back in the engine bay giving good weight distribution and makes much more power than the rb25.

most fixies will come with a freewheel option (i know the giant does, as does the subrosa above). i have ridden a straight fixie (an old road racer from back in the 50's) and it is good for flat or up hill, but sucks arse for down hill (it's ok for the first little bit) or when you want to slow down.