mad082

i'd go splitfires, or if you have the cash, go a whole new ignition setup, running something like a msd ignitor and external coils. that way the coils will last for years and if the leads stuff up you can get new leads cheap enough.

Item: 1999 Mitsubishi Magna TH executive sedan Location: Gympie Website: Item Condition: VGC Reason for Selling: going back to 1 car to save costs Price and Payment Conditions: $8500 $7000 ono Extra Info: white 5 speed manual super cold air con (just been regassed 2 weeks ago and had new drier installed) 153,000kms (had timing belts done at 100,000kms) lowered (front: king super lows, rear: king lows) 2.5" cat back with cannon (also comes with redback muffler) 16" verada wheels with good tyres ABS remote locking cruise control tow bar (missing tongue for it though) ran 14.8 at test and tune Pictures: more pics to come. Contact Details: marc 0409 122 787

the answer is simple. get rid of the airflow meter. get an ecu that doesn't need one.

number plate says it all doesn't it. either its a scam, so the guy is going to get his mate to bid on it at the last minute up to what he wants for it.

evo will eat the GTS4 unless the evo is stock and the GTS4 has some serious work done. the earlier evo's had about the same amount of power but were about 200kg's lighter than a GTS4. the rb20 only has 7kw more than an sr20 and the early GSR motor, but has less torque than them. a more even match would be a GTiR pulsar and an evo. a GTS4 is more comparable to a GTS-t r32 since they have the same power. the GTS4 will get off the line quicker, but the GTS-t is lighter so once it gets going it will be faster.

Location: Gympie, QLD 2006 Intense Sabot XL blue 20" BMX It has sealed cartridge bearing hubs, headset and bottom bracket. The rims are Sun Rhyno Lite double wall, eyeleted rims. The hubs are Redline Flight series hubs. The cranks are Redline Flight series with a Profile Inferno 41T chainring. The forks are Dynamic BMX carbon/alloy forks. The stem is an Odyssey Elementary stem (super light stem), the seat and post are Redline Flight. It has a THE padset. The gearing is 41/15. Selling as I am no longer racing. pics up shortly. $800 2003 Giant TCR road bike The frame is a 6061 alloy frame with smooth welds. The frame has some small scratches. It has carbon fibre forks and seat post. It is running a full Shimano 105 9 speed groupset, with Shimano R540 wheels and red/black Michelin Pro Race tyres. It also has a Ritchey stem. The bike has done approx. 350kms. Selling due to being too lazy to wake up early to go for a ride, and i need the money. $1000 Pics will be up shortly.

Location: Gympie, QLD 2006 Intense Sabot XL blue 20" BMX It has sealed cartridge bearing hubs, headset and bottom bracket. The rims are Sun Rhyno Lite double wall, eyeleted rims. The hubs are Redline Flight series hubs. The cranks are Redline Flight series with a Profile Inferno 41T chainring. The forks are Dynamic BMX carbon/alloy forks. The stem is an Odyssey Elementary stem (super light stem), the seat and post are Redline Flight. It has a THE padset. The gearing is 41/15. Selling as I am no longer racing. SOLD 2003 Giant TCR road bike The frame is a 6061 alloy frame with smooth welds. The frame has some small scratches. It has carbon fibre forks and seat post. It is running a full Shimano 105 9 speed groupset, with Shimano R540 wheels and red/black Michelin Pro Race tyres. It also has a Ritchey stem. The bike has done approx. 350kms. Selling due to being too lazy to wake up early to go for a ride, and i need the money. $1000

have you tried taking the bov off and pushing the plunger up to make sure it works? also, not too familiar with rb20s but is the vacuum hose you have it connected to actually a vacuum hose? is it connected to the intake manifold?

my mate ran 16psi through his s13 and never hit r&r. i really doubt that with a touch more boost and exhaust you would be hitting it. sr20's will usually handle 15psi without a worry, and thats with a fmic as well. i'd suggest putting a safc on it (if he doesn't want to pay for a whole ecu) and see if they can lean it out using that. but i think the tuner might be heading in the right direction with the crank angle sensor. my mate had a faulty CAS and it made it run like crap. it ran rich as anything. also be worth checking the water temp sensor.

what sort of bike is it?

rev limiters should only be hit when the back tyres are moving a lot faster than the front, and there is a strange haze around. hitting while accelerating just slows you down.

my mate has a natro rb30 that revs to 9000rpm. it will sit there all day.... well not quite. but it does have a rb26 oil pump and the centre of the crank shaft has been bored out to allow more oil through to cool the bearings.

since the ceramic turbo loves heat so much, flames should do it the world of good.

not safer if you run the stock turbo.

motor magazine did a comparison between the xr5 and the astra and i think the astra may have won. i have the mag somewhere, i will have to drag it out. in the performance figures they stuffed up and put the figures from a bmw and a mercedes that they also tested in the same magazine. i prefer the looks of the xr5 to any of the others.

just look at the sort of power people have gotten out of exa's and they were a pretty crap car.

if you are getting the car and getting rid of your wrx then it also comes down to what your wrx is actually worth, and how bad the guy wants your car. but also take into account that if the skyline hasn't had the timing belt done then that will be an expensive service coming up.

depends on how quick you want to get rid of it, and who wants to buy it. it is worth anything between about $13,000 and $20,000. has it had the timing belt done? if not then that will go against you.

the rev limiter to stop you reving to a point where it is no longer safe. if nissan didn't want you to rev to 7000rpm the rev limiter would be lower. it is ok to hit it now and then, just don't sit on it. while the fuel is cut to limit the revs, it cuts it completely so there isn't really much heat. it is just sparking into air, not into a really lean mixture, or if there was and fuel vapour it would be creating less heat than what a full amount of fuel would.

down the bottom it has COD as a payment option.

the amount of crashes you have had (regaurdless of whether you are at fault) is going to affect your costs. you could try applying for insurance under the new quote but more than likely 1 of the 2 following will happen: 1: they look up your details and put the price up anyway. 2: they don't put your price up and if you have an accident they look up your previous details and refuse to pay. as for the value of the car. once it has been in that many accidents the value is going to drop. no-one wants a car that has been dinged up heaps of time. and there are that many skylines out there now they aren't worth much. so harden the f**k up and get your daddy to pay it.

the early wrx's are very good on a skid pan as you can hold them sideways. the early evo's and galants are a fwd biased. i have driven a wrx and a galant on the skidpan and the wrx will drift really well, but the galant will slide then the front will pull you back straight. no fun at all.

twas crap. we got some heavy rain up here in gympie and some very small hail. rain lasted about 30 mins and now its muggy again.

little front wheel drive cars can be fun. the missus has a n15 SSS pulsar (used to be mine) with 112hp (84kw) at the wheels. all it has is the stock natro sr20 with a k&n panel filter, extractors and 2" cat back. it torque steers like all buggery due to the uneven drive shafts, but goes well. its fun to have drags from the lights with v6 commodores and beat them (only just though). it handles really well (other than the torque steer, which just keeps you on your toes). i keep telling her we should turbo it but she won't let me. the power of a silvia in a car that weighs about 10% less would be good fun. i'd love a mazda3 mps, or a ford xr5 (which i reakon looks super horn in red). sure they are fwd, but they'd still be great fun to drive. remember that the evo's are a fwd biased 4wd. fwd cars just take more skill to drive fast.

you should make the cheque out to the financial institution and post it to them from his place, or take the money to them in person. if you make the cheque out to the institution and he doesn't give it to them then it doesn't cost you anything. it just means you only paid whatever the amount was that you gave him on top of what he owed, then you can just send the institution a cheque to pay off the car so it doesn't get reposesed.