mad082

i've seen them for around the $8000 mark, but i could be wrong.

go to a bike shop and ask for an old tube. they should give it to you for free. if they don't call them scummy bastards and walk out and find another bike shop. then just cut a bit of the tube off and wedge it in.

any rb26 is going to be rather expensive.

you could've just gone to autobarn, repco or any tyre shop to get some too.

i thought it was an aussie car for a little bit, but it is a bit too big (not by much) and the wheels are too big. but i could well be a custom thing like that.

i'd say its just a belt slipping. and what is happeneing is that it is spinning for a second, then it heats up a bit and gets sticky and grips and gets on its merry way. very common problem amoung any type of car. just go round and tighten all 3 belts slightly.

was the clutch fan working? i'd also check the thermostat. a good idea when the clutch fan kicks in is to drop back a gear to get the revs up higher. this pulls more air through the radiator. works good around town, you just have to put up with the roar of the fan.

or you could just do that.

12psi is a fine level to run. once you start going higher you run the risk of the turbo losing the compressor wheel, and the ecu hitting rich and retard. i use one of these controllers and i run 14psi on it and it holds fine. it does bleed off a bit at high rpm, but you have to weigh up the price vs performance. less the $50 for something that will do the job more than fine, or hundreds of dollars for something that will do the job a little better.

hahahaha i just read one of the comments that says "hes driving a pt cruiser i believe" what a peanut. doesn't have a clue about cars.

i'm going to have to show this to my father in law to see if he knows what sort of car it is. looks like an early model ford to me, but he is a hot rodder so he'll know for sure.

it should be explained that if you join up to be a proper member (not just register on the forum) you get a member kit with stickers etc.

how long is it? if it isn't that long then it may just be made to sit behind the front guard, or just in front of the radiator (which would suit cars running side mount intercoolers).

the ecu will be the same. as for the remap, it would be best to go to a dyno, then put the ecu in and stick it on the dyno and check the afr's. if they aren't right you could always get a new chip made up to suit your car.

why should you be treated any different because you are a cops son? sure the fella was acting like a tool, but if he does it to other people as well at least he is fair. i hate hearing about how the families of cops or politicians get away with shit. if they break the law they should pay the same price as all the others.

the more i look at the p-nbc the more it looks like an emanage. but i think the emenage has a few more features, but then i haven't seen a proper english feature list for the p-nbc, just translated ones which doesn't have the best translation. the emenage can be hooked up to a mpa sensor so you can map above the max limit of the afm. can raise rev limit, get rid of boost cut (reading straight off the greddy site so don't start with the rich and retard crap), add injectors, self tune when hooked up to a wideband o2 sensor (closed loop basically). here's the site for more info on the emanage. i'd say the p-nbc is going to have a lot of the features this does. http://www.greddy.com/products/display/?Ca...;SubCategory=47

i didn't think it was that special until he started doing the laps around the people. doing the figure 8's i could do.

the P-NBC looks to be a similar product to the emanage ultimate. a piggyback unit that controls timing, fuel and airflow settings, on a 16 x 16 map. just like the emanage ultimate. and it is tuned via pc, and has a straight plug and play harness.... you guessed it, just like the ultimate.

did you have the same person reading gauge b both times. and were they looking at it at the same angle. or maybe the person just rounded up, or the needle had flickered. go for a drive and look at gauge a and have someone look at gauge b. then compare readings. then swap places and repeat. then you will be able to tell if it is how the other person is reading the gauge.

somehow i don't quite think that the bov is the whole cause. the fact that it goes away when the stock ecu is put back in says there is a problem with the tune.

when you hit rich and retard it feels like the ignition has been turned off for about half a second. then it comes roaring back to life.

get the cat done and then see what it flows at. if you don't have an aftermarket gauge, get one of them too.

those people running that high amount of boost on the stock ecu are like me, have a remapped ecu. the stock ecu has a rich and retard function that usually kicks in around 13psi (works off airflow, not a certain pressure). before i had full exhaust my stock ecu would hit it at 14psi. then i did dump pipe and cat and it would hit it at about 12.5psi.

deadr32 has it the wrong way. the pcv only operates under vacuum. i had mine out a few weeks ago as the seal around it was leaking at idle and causing a missfire.

ok, well firstly do the cat. then up the boost a little bit - but you won't get 13-14psi on the stock ecu. it will say goodnight before then. then fuel pump. z32 afm, injectors and ecu should all be done at the same time to save you money on tuning. but if it must be done seperately do ecu then injectors then the afm. as for the boost controller, i'd just use one of the turbotech ones until you get a bigger turbo. the perform really well.