mad082

there are other factorys that play a part too. like wheel/tyre size, tyre pressure, amount of stereo crap weighing the car down, etc.

well i filled up yesterday. got 242k's to 35.4L, thats 14.6L pre 100k's, which is alot better than the 17.x i was getting. then i went down the coast for a drive. was all highway driving. used just under 1/4 of a tank for 150k's. and that was sitting on about 120kmh most of the way (110kmh zone), and my speedo reads a bit under. something that also affects fuel economy is whether you use the aircon alot or not. i use it heaps, so that uses a bit more fuel.

i don't use the restrictor. holds 14psi pretty well.

ok, well the problem with de-turboing a turbo motor is that the internals aren't like a non-turbo motor. they are designed to have less compression (the boost makes up the difference). this means that if you de-turbo it it will have less power than a non-turbo motor. it would be easier to sell the car and get a non turbo car. to remove the turbo you would have to get a new manifold, block all the turbo water and oil lines lines, get a new exhaust (if it has a 3", since a 3" on a n/a car would be extremely noisey, and actually reduce the power output), and probably retune the computer to alter the timing.

it really depends on the driver of each car, and what model commodore. the later model, like vx and vy are heavier than the vr/vs. they have a touch more power though. the skyline may have the same power, and be a touch lighter, but it is well down on torque. this means that you have to rev harder to get the power, where as a big aussie 6 will pull from lower in the rev range.

CO2 doesn't burn. i was looking at doing this since i can get CO2 cartridges through work. then i found out it isn't flammable so i was going to look at hooking it up to a spray system so it sprays onto the cooler. but scrapped that idea. now i'm just going to go with waterspray or water injection.

what do you mean by straight pipe systems?

when i had the wideband o2 sensor on mine, at cruise i was getting about 14.5-1, which is about right. but my fuel economy still sucked. but i really do think it is all about driving style. you may not think you are driving it all that hard, but someone else may be using a lot less throttle at low rpm when accelerating. as for the afm, i thought it would richen the mixture up a bit too, but then i thought about it. it works off a hot wire system, so with crap on the wire it takes a bit longer to heat up. so it is 1 of those things. a dirty afm may make it run richer, it may make it run leaner. really need to do tests to find out the correct answer.

the bit that was blocked up was the dual stage solenoid that it comes out of the factory with. the boost you were running was about 10-11psi, which is still safe. by removing the controller and running it just off the wastegate it would've been running a bit over 5psi. i wouldn't go off the stock gauge too much. i run 14psi and after about 12psi my stock gauge doesn't really move much. i would get an aftermarket gauge to see exactly what you are running.

i need to be alone now.

it will pass everything on the road but a fuel station.

depends on the inside. if they have raised holes they will cut the noise down a bit.

for the wiring you would use wire atleast the same size as standard. i dare say it may be a prick of a job (are r32 batteries in the boot like r33s).

as said above. but it only really makes a difference in the wet. in the dry they will perform pretty much the same.

it should be the same as what you tried. did the motor try to pull the antenna back in? otherwise give a car audio place a call and see if they can help.

when i did my gearbox out job, when i was under the car i could just lift it. i was lying on my back and holding it up while someone else repositioned the jack underneath it. i can't remeber if it had oil in it or not.

you do lose throttle response. imagine the piping being like a hose. the shorter the hose, the sooner the water comes out the end. and you don't get accleleration lag from a bigger cooler. you get response lag, but not acceleration lag. once the turbo is up to speed the air will be flowing at the same speed as normal, so the air going into the motor will be the same. this means it will create the same power. if it creates the same power, it will accelerate the same. now you can post up drag times that fit your story if you leave out every other variable other than the size of the cooler. but the simple fact is that if a cooler flows the same amount of air as another cooler, other than the initial response, acceleration won't change. if you have 2 identical cars with 2 identical power graphs, with 1 just having a bigger cooler than the other, their acceleration times will be extremely similar. the only difference will be in initial acceleration since there is more lag on the bigger cooler. once going they will accelerate at the same speed. if you don't believe this then go and study physics.

i'd say the pivot bolt. that is what the clutch fork pivots on. there are 2 places it could've broken. either at the base of the bolt, (this is usually caused by it being done up too tight) or at the head. i know of 3 r33's (mine being 1) that have done this. mine and another broke off at the base, and another snapped the head off. you can buy a new one from www.uniqueautosports.com for about $55. i got mine repaired by an engineer mate of mine. i got a 50mm long bolt in 12.7 tensile (thats pretty strong), got my mate to machine the old pivot polt smooth at the base, drill a new hole, tap a thread in it and cut the head off the new bolt and screw it into the pivot bolt. cost me 90 cents. it is a gearbox out job. if it has broken the thread off it isn't that hard to get out. i used a cutting disc on a dremil to score a little groove in the top and just screwed it out with a screw driver.

you just have to be careful getting it welded. if they have the welder too hot and the piping is too thin it will just melt a bigger hole.

it really depends on the cooler. if it has a better flow rate, and a better cooling efficiency then you will gain power, but lose a little bit of throttle response. if it flows more air, then you will gain power. if the temp of the air going into the motor is cooler, you will gain power. its as simple as that. people will go on about how you don't gain power since you lose repsonse, but that is a load of crud. all that means is from the moment you put your foot down to the moment you go "vroom" may be a split second longer. once the air has filled up the space, whatever cooler flows better/cools better will give you more power.

i changed my o2 sensor a few months back. economy didn't change. then i developed a slight miss at idle. finally got it sorted a few weeks back. in the process i changed back to my old o2 sensor, and put a new fuel filter in and cleaned my afm. my economy has improved. i have rather a heavy right foot and i do a lot of spirited driving. i can't remember exactly how many k's i've done this tank, but i think it is about 250k's to 3/4 of a tank. normally i would get about 200 to 3/4 of a tank, but i'll know for sure when i fill up. normally i was getting about 17L/100k's. so it may be worth cleaning your afm as well. and if you don't want to buy a new o2 sensor, just try giving it a clean with carby cleaner first.

the wattage of the bulbs was the same as the ones i took out.

you will find most cars do this. that is because the car companies know that as a whole, humans are stupid animals. many people will be on a trip somewhere, 50ks from a servo when they happen to take a look at the gauge and see that it is nearly empty. so they need a saftey net.

i'm going to suggest a few things. firstly put a standard plenum on it. the way it is number 1 will be running really rich, and number 6 really lean. take the coil pack cover off. even though you have a wasted spark setup you could still benefit be getting rid of some heat. what plugs are you running? you have said that they have been gapped to 0.8mm but what type? and it might be an idea to gap them smaller, to say 0.65mm or 0.7mm.

gran turismo isn't really a drifting game.