mad082

did it start easily when jump starting it? if it did then it may be that the new battery is shagged, or that it simply isn't a high enough CCA rated battery.

try wrapping them with electrical tape and see if it alters things. if it does then you know the coils are shagged

both at fault at monaco. maldonado should've been watching his mirrors and known that sir ramsalot was coming up the inside and to keep well clear. hamo should've realised that he wasn't going to make it and pulled out of it earlier

+1 for the rb25 conversion. sure you can get power out of the rb20 but at the expense of low end power. you can get the rb25 to be knocking on the door of 200kw with stock everything but exhaust and cooler (with the boost bumped up a bit) and it will be making full boost by around 2700rpm. even with a turbo, ecu and injector upgrade you can make around 250kw and still have full boost by under 3000rpm. to get even 200kw from the rb20 you won't be making full boost until closer to 4000rpm.

may be that the battery, while new, is a bit low on voltage. maybe try jump starting the car and run it for a bit and then turn it off and see how it starts.

i can't see any rust there..... i also can't see any car, LOL

i dunno about that. i've looked at both and straight out of the corner hamilton swerves across a little bit then backs out of it. then after that he keeps his steering wheel in pretty much the same spot when the accident occurs. if you watch the incar footage from hamilton you can see that his car stays parrallel to the grip markings the whole time before the crash (other than the initial swerve), while maldonado swerves over to the right hand grip positions then starts to come back across. i think they are both to blame, but maldonado more than hamilton. oh and i'm not much of a hamo fan, so no bias, just going off the footage.

may i ask why you want the idle at 1100rpm? that is massively high. it should sit at around 750rpm and the ecu is probably over riding your setting because it's so high. as for the stalling when driving, does the car have an atmo bov? if yes, then that will most likely be the major cause of your problem. if not then i'd say that the settings on the emanage probably aren't the best and it could do with a bit of adjustment. that said, might be worth checking your o2 sensor with a multimeter. it might be on its way out and causing the issue.

have you checked all the fuses and relays?

better get friendly with a tow truck driver then, LOL

sounds like you simply got rid of the siren and not the alarm/immobiliser itself. might be worth calling the previous owner and asking them about it.

anyone else find it amusing that 2 australians (mark webber and cadel evans) in sports generally dominated by europeans have the nickname "the chin"?

in city traffic the hot hatch will use about half the fuel of the big 6 on LPG, so cost wise they would balance out, especially once you take into account the lower rego of the 4 banger. that said, i have little experience with the autos in the pulsars, so don't know much about reliability or even performance. that said, my sisters corolla (2006 model) is an auto and it goes suprisingly well. think it would probably beat an auto SSS though, but i couldn't really say for sure. the only auto pulsar i've driven was a n14 1.6L one and it was a slug. no power matched with poor ratios.

did that include freight and any possible import tax you may get stung? may find that they end up costing a little bit more once landed.

yeah posted in wasteland a few days ago

yeah don't think the suede would chafe your hands or anything like that.

my daily is a vt wagon. i'd take the missus SSS over it any day of the week, other than the fact that the commodore has cruise control (since it's a long drive to work everyday). even if you got a falcon or commodore on gas i don't think it would be much (if any) cheaper than a 4 cylinder, especially if it's city driving that you do. i average about 9L/100kms out of the commodore and that is highway driving. before i bought it and was driving the pulsar to work i was averaging low 7's. best is 6.5L/100kms in the pulsar. round town it's usually 10 to 11L/100kms, but that is pretty much all short trips (it's only a 5 or 6 minute drive to the missus' work from home). if you were doing longer trips where you got to stay at a steady speed for more then a few hundred metres at a time you'd easily see economy of under 10L/100kms for city driving. that time i got 6.5L/100kms was on a trip to brissy where i had to drop mum off to pretty much the heart of the city, but it was night time (about 7 to 8pm when i was in the city). i'm almost tempted to sell the wagon to get myself a SSS. i originally got the wagon because i wanted something with cruise, comfy seats and auto for the long trip to work (i have a dodgy back, so seat comfort is important), and price as well. i wouldn't have been able to get a SSS for what i paid for the wagon (at least one that wasn't falling apart). that is what is stopping me selling the wagon to get one (can't afford to pay the difference). in a race the pulsar would beat the wagon too.

would you really want to though? surely the powers that be would make his life somewhat unpleasant until the remainder of his contract. he'd be better off just trying to get a payout. but then again, i suppose he wants to stay in the game. baaaaaaaahahahaha, love your work mate

might be worth posting in the appropriate section of the forum that you are in (there is subsections of the forum for each different state) so that you can get answers from people closer to your area.

stock they are ok, but go better with a set of extractors and an exhaust (they run out of puff at about 5000rpm with the stock headers, but will happily rev out to the 7500rpm redline with extractors). handling wise they ride a lot better than a lot of other small cars. they are slightly stiffer so they don't suffer from body roll as much. my mum and sister have corollas and mum's ex boyfriend had a lancer and it was better to drive than both of them. they aren't "oh my god, they are amazing" good, but when compared to other cars in their class they are good.

ok, a few things, a remap of the stock ecu isn't tuning the stock ecu. it is basically an aftermarket ecu as you have to physically modify the ecu to do it. you don't simply plug the laptop in and tune it. as for gapping plugs and adjusting timing, that isn't really considered tuning. the difference it makes is minimal, and certainly isn't what the majority refer to as tuning for cars with an ecu. thirdly, unless you have the recirculation hole blocked off in the bov or crushed the top of the bov to increase the spring tension, adding a pod filter won't give you any flutter from the bov, and even if you have done either of the above, the flutter is very minimal (i know this from personal experience, having done both). you will hear the bov noise (the "psssht" noise), but not a flutter (flutter is the "tu-tu-tu" noise as it isn't a single wave, but a few waves, which fits in with the definition of flutter). the OP started a thread to get answers, not get tied in with technicalities. i simply posted saying that the stock cooler suffers from heatsoak easily (which it does) and that the stock ecu can't be tuned (which technically it can't) so that he didn't think it could be.

you do realise that by "removing speed limits" i am refering to not having a speed limit at all, not simply making less of them? so in otherwords it would be perfectly legal for someone could go through a school zone at 8:30 at 200kmh. i'm all for simplifying/reducing the amount of different speed zones. also my point about it being easy to not speed was more aimed at people who say they have to spend all their time looking at the speedo to make sure they go over the limit, because they have poor throttle control. yes it is easy to miss a speed sign and end up accidently speeding, but this is different to knowing the speed limit and accidently doing 10kmh over the limit.

yeah manual magnas are great (i've owned 2 3.5L ones, pretty sure i've discussed this with you in the past). as for the v6 camry, i don't know much about them but i would think that being a camry it should be pretty reliable as they aren't really commonly bought by younger people so there is much less chance it's had a hard life. probably the biggest issue is more if it's been owned by someone who doesn't get it serviced as often as they should

ls1 would go in easier than a ford straight 6 (v8 is shorter and lower and lighter). as i said in the other thread the OP started asking this, issue would be with the height of the motor and the weight (they are an iron block, not alloy, although the head is alloy), and possibly the length. but if it's a track car then you can easily overcome the size issues with a bit of creative panel beating, but it may still handle like a bucket of crap because of the weight.

unless you have an aftermarket ecu it can't be tuned. 10psi is ok for the stock cooler, but you are better off with a front mount because the stock cooler is tiny and suffers from heat soak exceptionally fast. as for flutter, you won't get it just by adding a pod, however you will be able to hear the induction noise and bov noise better.