RBwhatever

5psi will your lowest possible setting due to the 5psi actuator.

Tyres maybe? Are they oversized tyres for your rim? It might be soft sidewalls. Could also be a softer compound tyre. I found going from cheap and rock hard tyres to toyo T1R's you could really feel the extra movement in the softer compound rubber.

Yeah man, because it makes a huuuge difference when driving around town. "Why are you changing your shoes man, we're just going down town?" "Because I'm hardcore, you never know when I have to start drifting takumi style." Hahahaha jokes

The car will run richer when its cold. When its warmed up it doesn't need the extra fuel. It's kind of like a choke. Otherwise it could the fuel your using. BP ultimate seems to stink more than Regular or 95RON.

So the GTS4 has ATESSA just like the GTR? I always thought they were a constant awd. Looks like I was wrong. And yes its true what GTST says that the GTR's are 100% rwd until slip/lateral forces etc. Huh, learn something new everyday.

The earlier r33's didn't come with keyless entry...well mine didn't. Unless it was an option. The alarm/immobiliser kit your buying should include the actuators and remotes for keyless entry. Depends on the kit. I had mine installed with my immobiliser kit.

Snap leads to anger, anger leads to hate, hate leads to suffering. Lol.

Hahaha too true. I stand corrected +1 for the charger.

Its good to know it runs.

I was thinking the ford laser battery might be shot too, but it shouldn't matter if the laser is running while he's jump starting. The volts/amps should be boosted by the alternator. Revving the laser while jump starting can help with this.

If you pop the bonnet, there's a black box on left side of the engine bay with jap writing all over it. It has a diagram of how to jump start from that box. You've got to pop the lid off to get to the terminals. Try jumping from that one.

Positive on positive. Negative on negative.

Did you try and jump start it using the terminals in the engine bay? or straight onto the battery in the boot? I've jumped mine straight off the battery in the boot before I found out what the terminals in the engine bay were. Worked alright. That clicking sound might be your starter motor. Are you jump starting off another car or a standalone battery?

I've asked him this question before. He said he's 18 and works for telstra. As for where he get's his money from? I don't know. A loan?

Nissan don't produce the RB series engines anymore. Nor the SR20's and VG30's. The in-line 6 has been replaced with the VQ series V6. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

Thanks, I'll do that from now on

The problem is already fixed. This thread is old.

khunjeng - I'd like to check something with you. Scenario: Engine oil - Fuchs Titan Supersyn 5W-40 (just as good as Mobil 1 and costs pretty much the same). Oil Filter - Ryco (I know you hate these and I will get genuine next time around) The car is street driven and never sees the track. The car is not given a hard time. It just has the usual bolt on mods and aftermarket ECU. I currently change my oil & filter at about every 5000km-6000km. I've read previously that oil filters don't start working at their best till about 4,500km. So is it safe to say that changing my oil filter at 10,000km is ok? In saying that can I extend my oil change intervals to 10,000km as well? Another one - Motul MT90 can't be used in a viscous diff can it? Thanks

Does your ignition have the key release depress button towards the bottom left of the ignition? If not, something has broken inside the ignition or steering lock assembly. It not electrically switched to release the key. It purely a mechanical fault of the ignition. The neutral safety switch just prevents the car from being started in neutral or any other gear apart from park as far as I know. Is the keyed pushed all the way into the ignition? Don't try and pull the key out of the ignition in any other position apart from lock. You could do even more damage to the ignition and your keys. I'd say its a mechanical fault of the ignition. Call a locksmith. Or to cut down on costs, remove the steering lock assembly and bring it in too them. Can be a pig of a job to do though sometimes.

Toyo T1R's 205/55/R16 Dry: 9.5/10 Wet: 9.5/10 Price: $205ea fitted & balanced Awesome street tyre.

Is this going to be a toy? or a daily practical vehicle? The S15 is no hero for room. If room is what you need the R34GTT i'd say would be the bet. The R32 as you said needs lots of $$ to restore and keep it maintained. Let alone the cost to modify is expensive as well. So It'd be a fight between the S15 and R34 GTT. Fun=S15 All Rounder=R34 GTT

I hear Independant motorsports can do remaps for R33's too. They're in Victoria though.

Sheet of 1.5mm Aluminium 550mm x 300mm- $5 PVC pipes and joins - $2 PVC Glue - $5 Black Paint - $2 Zippy Ties - you should have some already Spline - 20c a meter

So I can understand the percentage of the temperature drop across the intercooler. But that also has to be a variable percentage does it not? Say for instance the car has been driven hard and the intercooler has sustained a fair amount of heatsoak, would that not make its cooling efficiency drop? Also too for the turbo. The temperature rise across the turbo also has to be based on variable percentage. If the turbo was up to heat xxdeg, it wouldn't be just a matter of adding xy degrees on top regardless of ambient temp. Cooler air would take longer to heat and the air is only passing though the turbo for a certain length of time. Then there's the compression of the the air also, wouldn't that add heat also to the air temp?

Agreed.