DJRIFT

hi all i am having troubble trying to decide what turbo to put on my rb20. im aiming for a little over 200rwkw so i know that rules out a stock rb25 item but the problem i am finding as i dont realy know what size turbo and which turbo to get. first off would be a slide hiflow rb25 item. around $1000 new without exchange and will handle 230rwkw easy. but are they very responsive? where do they make full boost? seccond: KKR turbos. im not realy sure what size one i would be after but the price is around $800 to $1000 depending on size. i havent heard any reports on these yet so id be keen to know if they are a very responsive turbo or not. third: a HKS seccond hand 2025 2530 or somthing like that. i think they seem to go from $1300 upwards but they are getting old and being seccond hand maybe a bit dodgy so they may not have any advantage over the slide item. forth: a gcg hiflow or a new garett but now getting a bit out of my price range? or should i just get a standard rb25 item and deal with the 190 odd rwkw that i should get? any help would be good. i know turbos a covered quite often but i havent seen any side by side comparisons for a rb20 yet. thanks damo

they skyline at chirchill park has been roled but the only window left in it is the Left hand back one which GMB is after. i went and had a look about 6 months ago for gmb but they told me they didnt know how to get it out with out wrecking the rubber seal around it and it would cost more than GMB wanted to pay to get it out. so if someone knowas how to pull one out with out wrecking the seal than that would be handy. ive tryed to help out as it has taken me a few trips out of my way but unfortunatly i cant do anymore. sorry.

hi every one. im looking for a pair of 17inc wheels to suit the front of an r32. maybe beven GTR offset. im not after anything special and i dont need rubber but id like something different to what i have now which is 3 sets of 16s. im not realy looking at anything very expensive either. thanks for any help damo.

hey mate i could have my front guard up for sale in a few weeks. pending on postage of my new ones. what price are you looking at paying for one? damo

hi all i have 2 greddy boost gauges that are up for sale. basicly which ever one sells first than ill keep the other one unless there is popular demand on both. they are located in tasmania but post would be around $5 or $7 for overnight. they are both mechanical and read to 1.5 bar the 56mm is black face and lights up green. it has a few minor scratches around the front like most old gauges but the needle still sits on zero. seems some droop over time. the 80mm one is a white face with green writing and lights up green. it is in slightly better condition than the smaller one. it also comes with a stand to suit. 56mm looking for $70 plus post 80mm looking for $80 plus post. these realy are a nice gauge.

there is a burgandy r32 with an rb25 and box to match up here in launni. so you get the good motor and the better lighter body. $15,000. it realy is good value.

there is a burgandy r32 with an rb25 and box to match up here in launni. so you get the good motor and the better lighter body. $15,000. it realy is good value.

you are going to get that with any car you buy. lots of things to tidy up and change to suit you. like has been said befor the value for money realy is there and it doesnt cost much to tidy things up once you have a car compared to starting from scatch.

thats interesting as im yet to see a cheaper r32 with an rb25. when you take a 10,000 r32 and put in a 5,000 r33 engine and g box plus the few thousand worth of engine mods than 15,000 doesnt sound to bat to me especialy when it is here in tassy with fresh rego and new tyres. oh and im pretty sure the wheels are the same just the rears have dish. if you want any specs of what it does have than feel free to ask me.

hey mate. yea i know this car and have driven it and worked on it since he brought it only a few months back. its a realy orsom car and if i didnt already have one id be right on top of this one. a very good buy! if you want any more info let me know. damo

from what ive heard and seen if its a cheap GTR its cheap for a reason. just before the end of the 15 year rule there was an influx of $16,000 GTRs from japan. thoe this is dam cheap it realy was pot luck as to what you got. like anything you can make it look good in a pic. basicly a rb26 engine rebiuld is around 8 to 10 thousand plus and thats what most of these cheap GTRs need. and if you happened to get one whith a good motor than you would probably get one with rust. a guy i know got one and his mate got wet feet sitting on the passenger side while driving it on a wet day. after a bit closer expection they found huge rust holes in the chassie rails. another friend got one fresh from japan, they payed a little more because it had lots of good bits. but on the trip home from the boat it blew up. six months and 10 grand later its fixed. so basicly dont buy one from a pic. go and have a close look as they will cost a lot to fix. maybe even have a look for one that has had a fresh engine biuld as a few other mates of mine have picked up cheap freshly biult ones because people have brought them, blown them up, got them fixed but then cant aford to pay for the rebiuld. hope thats hasnt scared you off. just telling some real life stories of tassie GTR owners.

bonnet venting with spacers under the hinges pic can be found here http://www.pbase.com/nismo13/image/72986437

oh and id like to say that is the best cai i have ever seen. love it.

lifting the back of the bonnet is a pretty good idea. a decent bonnet will cost around $1000 and you would be better spending that on a tripple core radiator or a davies crage water pump or more power so lifting the back of the bonnet up is a cheap and afective way for sire. the washers under the hinges is a bit dodgy thoe you would be better off getting a few bits of steal or aluminimum the same size of the hinge and some longer bolts to do it properly. also removing the rubber strip will help and that alows the bonnet to stay nice and flush. thoe like mentioned before you will get the smell of the engine in the car when turning vents on. but if you have an oil breather like me this wont matter anyway because i can always smell my engine. on my old r30 race car i simply cut a hole out between the top of the radiator and the cam cover and when the car is sitting there you can see the heat floating out the vent. if it wasnt venting than it would be circulating in the engine ay going no where. another experiance i have had is when my exhaust temp sensor has been sitting on the turbo housing (before being installed) when the car is running it may get up to 300 deg and after 30 secconds of the engine being switched off the temp is up to 350 to 400 deg. so basicly it gets very hot and the more you can do to stop it the better.

i wasnt overly rapped with getting stuff through beechys as they just order it in the same way you would if you done it over the net except you have to wait for them to order it. took a week last time and then i still got charged freight another week. so cost me the same and it took longer. but it is good to suport local bisness (so i kept trying to tell myself)

dam dam dam im after a set of seat rails just like these at the moment. well im definatly next in line after GMB. if GMB takes them coulk you please point me in the right direction for some new ones?

ahh i never new that. so can you pretty much just drop in a 25 crank and rods and get the rb23 or do you need to biuld the motor properly? what was the final figures on the HPI rb24????? i never seen the final output. that car kinda pissed me off because they would say just slap in a gtr crank and rods and your done mate. they never tell you just how hard it all is. like how the block has to keep getting ground so the crank will clear the sides and so on. plus they buy all this brand name stuff from japan that is very hard to get in aus and say yea this is a grate mod if you can find the parts. basicly final power output cant realy determine how good a motor is as like someone said before it is hugely govened by the turbo. but a stroker motor gives you torque and diferent engine charecteristics. torque wins races and spins the wheels better. as far as strokers go thoe everyone seems to say rb30det are the best dolar for kilowat engine biulds.

im after a stock ecu out on an r32 to run an rb20. if you have one please pm me some details. thanks

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hi all i have a set of rear Type M pods to suit an R32 skyline. they are slightly damaged but on the underside of them. they are also fairly scratched but most people would want to respray them anyway as they are green. i am selling them because they will not fit on my 4 door. i am located in tas but am willing to ship depending on deal.

seriously mate just go for a brand name jap one. as you said the blitz LM kit is exactly the one you want and i think it is around the $1000 mark. pretty sure autobarn sell them. it should do you up to 300rwkw. these kits are realy easy to fit and should not require any modifications to fit them.

i was fairly sure that the turbo elbow on a rb20 would fit an rb25 turbo. i think at worst you need to slog the three holes out to suit but only a little bit but the main reason i thought that you use an rb25 turbo elbow was for better flow.

will you be there toffy? im keen to see your ceffy. i am 95% there depending on a few minor things waiting to slot into place. cant wait to give the auto a hammering?

hi all would anyone happen to know if r30 and R32 seat mounts are the same? this would be easy to check if i could find say a bride listing on seat rails as you would think that if they were the same the r30 and r32 one would be the same but i cant find anything. all my usual sources dont go back as far as r30. any help would be grate. thanks damo

hi mate ive been looking for a rb20 manual box fo a while but id be a bit hesident if its been behind a rb25 as i know 20 boxes are faily weak and and most dont last long at 200rwkw. ill be keen in a few weeks.