TerribleOne

I'm chasing a drivers seat and drivers floor mat (genuine Nissan) for a R33 S2 sedan. I'm in Brisbane, will pick up! Need to match these patterns in pictures and be in good condition, my seat and floor mat are stuffed. Thanks!

Do you mean coil? They don't have ignition leads. Or do you mean coil pack harness?

Here's a few more pics

10K ONO Need this gone asap. Can assist in delivery around brisbane.

I'm very negotiable, just put a deposit on a house and need to sell this thing! Price drop to 11k ONO

Spotted 53XYN red/marone R33 on Annerley offramp this arvo, I think it was the cleanest R33 in that colour I've ever seen! Sorry if I didnt beep back, was looking for a SAU sticker on it! I was in a silver R33 sedan. Also had a guy in a green S1 R33 sedan on Compton Rd Woodridge Sunday arvo, gave me one of those 4 door R33 seedy nod and wink. It was some 4 door love happening. AND I see a white R33 GTR every morning on the way to work on Waterworks Rd The Gap, 76GTR plates I think?

Sweet man thanks. A pair of 33 GTR seats would be nice!

It's a AWD box so it's not really going to work in your RWD. I think making it fit would be more trouble than it's worth. Better off going for a R33 GTST box, they're quite strong.

Are they interchangable? My drivers seat it pretty badly torn and the rails are worn, thought it might be easier to just buy a new seat instead of repairing it.

I recently sold some of the running gear from my Torana so some bloke in SA, luckily he was the one that organised the shipping. I had a large pallet with a gearbox and some boxes with the complete fuel system, Microtech, ignition system, B&M shifter and alot of other shit perfectly packed tightly and then covered in cardboard and 100m of industrial pallet wrap. This package would withstand just about anything. It got picked up by his shipping company and about 2 weeks later I get a call saying "hey I thought all this stuff was on a pallet?" I say uuuhh yeah it all was, why? Turns out they dropped it at the wrong house in the same suburb whom pulled the pallet apart, took what parts they wanted and then called the shipping company to say this stuff wasnt theirs. So this poor bloke gets delivey of my fully built trimatic with NO converter, a Mircotech LT10s with no hand controller or wiring harness and only a few clamps and fittings from a 500hp fuel system. They claim no responsibility. Good thing I had a photo of the pallet before it was wrapped with all parts, a photo of it wrapped and a photo of it getting loaded onto a truck. Moral of the story is I'm hungy

My family owns a servo which I work in and I can tell you for a fact we make 3c/L AT MOST. It's generally 1.5c/L which is barely worth it. We have some pull when it comes to how long we stay cheap for but that's it. We cant dictate how high the prices go, it comes down to what the other 2 close servo's go to. We stay cheap up to 48 hours longer than the Mobil and BP in the area. Normally they'll lift their prices Wednesday morning, we'll stay cheap until Thursday 6pm. Only because we're nice guys.

All decent offers considered!

Hey guys its come time to sell my trusty R33 S2 sedan. It's a factory RB25DET/manual. Has the following mods: Stainless dump pipe 3.5" exhaust 600X300 frount mount plumb back BOV Custom alloy intake manifold with forward facing throttle body Yellow Jackets coil packs and new platinum plugs Standard airbox Ohlins coil overs Gizzmo IBC boost controller Heavy duty clutch 17" wheels with near new Federal SS595 tyres (235 front and 255 rear) Just had full service, new radiator, new oxygen sensor, aircon regas, full wheel alignment, new front brake pads and machined rotors. Has rego until June or July. Has done 170,000km. Asking $12,500. If anyone is interested post here or PM. Thanks Nick.

I'm no R35 mechanic (just a normal mechanic anyway ) but a click on full lock is normally worn out CV joints. Has anyone actually got to the bottom of this problem yet?

From what I can see the standard boost solenoid is not connected, I think its mounted in the passenger side strut tower still and the Gizzmo one is next to it. Is it worth disconnecting it and using a bleed valve to see if it improves? Judging by the horrible shit I had to fix in the engine bay when I bought it anything is possible. The guy who I bought it off sold it cheap becuase it ran like an absolute dog. Wouldnt idle, wouldnt boost, had a horrible missfire, would stall, pump out black smoke on idle. I replaced the AFM which improved it 90%, fixed a few large vacuum leaks around the intake manifold and TB, replaced the 02 sensor and it runs a treat. Just need to get my head around this boost issue and it should really show the full potential of the car.

I've got a mildly modded RB25 with a Gizzmo IBC and I noticed that for me to get full boost I really need to rev the guts out of it to see 11psi. Ive fiddled with the gain settings on the controller which makes it a little better but if I push the gain too much the boost isn't very steady. Is it normal to have to push 5k+ rpm on a RB25 with standard turbo to see full boost? My friend has a RB25 with only cat back exhaust and Profec-B and his seems to reach full boost (11psi) at maybe 3k rpm and feels much more responsive than mine. Has anyone else had problems like this with a Gizmo IBC? My RB25 has: Jazma 3.5" exhaust and unknown stainless dump Yellow Jacket coils FMIC Standard airbox (I hate pods) Upgraded Walbro pump Custom alloy intake manifold with internal bellmouths and front facing TB What looks like GTR BOV plumbed back I might bypass the IBC and use a bleed valve to see if it builds boost any better if nobody has any other ideas. Thanks! I bought the car super duper cheap with all this stuff done to it so everything is a bit unknown. I only use it to drive to work and back.

I know that some places in Japan ask if you want the dash wound back before they send the car back. "Ok we're sending the car to be shipped tomorrow...how many km did you want it to have?" I use to laugh alot seeing these beaten to shit Z32's coming into work with 30,000 to 60,000 on the clock and on the timing cover there are stickers saying timing belt has been changed at 100,xxx km and 200,xxx km! Yet the owners seem to still swear that the dashboard is correct.

The SnapOn gun also has a smart trickle charger.

Thanks sunline, the new AFM is working great.

Just chasing a AFM for my S2 R33, it's almost completely shat itself and I need one asap! If anyone has one in Brisbane/Logan I will pick up. Thanks! If anyone has one feel free to SMS me on 0415 859 444 for quickest reply. Nick

Just wondering if a S2 R33 indicator/fog light assembly (round lights) will fit into the same spot in a R33 S2 sedan? The little panel that they sit in looks the same shape, are they a straight swap?

I've got a Snap On cordless gun and its the best thing I've ever bought. Blows my old Snap On air powered gun out of the water! I can use it at work for 2 days (alot of use) without having to change the battery. Comes at a huge cost though...around $950 will get you a gun with 2 batteries and a charger. I've had this one for about 18 months and it's not showing any signs of slowing down. It's got over 800nm of torque, the only 1/2" gun I've got that will undo a Honda balancer!

Thanks alot guys, that helps alot. Mine has the battery in that corner of the engine bay, is that normal for a R33 S2 sedan? I've done a fair bit of work on R33's before but always 2 doors with the battery in the boot so I thought it was wierd when I bought the car.

Can anybody help me out and post some close up pictures of a Greddy style intake manifold installed in a R33? I need to see if there is enough room to run a cooler pipe off the TB and straight down towards the ground instead of through the panel underneath where the washer bottle sits. Only because thats how my current cooler pipes run and I dont want to cut more holes than I need. Thanks!

I've got a RS4 Stagea and the thing is running rough on idle and when driving, it has come and go a few times but it's mostly pretty shitty. Now I noticed this arvo when in park I rev it to 2500rpm or thereabouts and when I back off it lets off a bit of a popping noise out the exhaust. Could this all be one problem like plugs or coilpacks or two seperate issues? The car is 100% standard. Also it seems to be very gutless lately, don't know if I'm just imagining this because my other car's alot quicker but it doesn't seem to be the same as it used to. Could all this be related?