R.C

They're called a festoon globe, like the interior light in the cabin. I didn't even know there was supposed to be a boot light, i've never had one. Can't say i've ever looked hard though.

I have 4 tyres for sale 3 x Goodyear Eagle F1s 235/50ZR17 1 x Blue Streak Stiletto 235/45R17 Price: $250 Neg Location: Melbourne inner east Reason For Selling: Had a puncture on one so ended up replacing all of them. The 3 goodyears have heaps of tread left, the blue streak is brand new only driven until the new set were put on. These goodyears are made in Germany and awesome in the wet, would be good for upgrade of cheap tyres that were put on for compliancing. PM me for more details, I probably wont reply between christmas and new years though. Thanks for looking.

I'm trying to find out the same thing. My 33 had tein flex with pillowball mounts when I got it, they have worn and are rattling especially when going over uneven roads (which is most of the time). I was quoted around $430 for new pillow ball mounts from Fulcrum suspension. Wouldn't mind finding some urathane mounts if the price isn't bad, in the end it is just annoying listening to them rattle.

3rd and 4th installment.... Enjoy Automatic_Trans_Pg_3.pdf Automatic_Trans_Pg_4.pdf

2nd installment....taking forever to load.... Automatic_Trans_Pg_2.pdf

Must have blown up during upload.... Automatic_Trans_Pg_1.pdf

Found an old article from a High Performance Import mag, issue 54. It will probably interest anyone looking to upgrade their auto, as long as you don't care about harsh shifting at light throttle and chirping between gears. Apologies for the large file size, I couldn't get it any smaller but still be able to read the text. If anyone has some good software to reduce the file size feel free.

PLEASE DELETE THREAD

PLEASE DELETE THIS THREAD

Add steering angle sensor to this list. I had the light coming on after 10 mins of driving consistantly everytime I drove regardless of driving conditions. Also I could not get into diagnostic mode - fixed sensor and problem gone with diagnostic mode now working.

SOLD

Sorry mate, It'd make the sale of the unit a bit harder....plus the whole lot is close to sale pending finalisation of payment and stuff. If you go to places like JB hi fi you can buy various wiring harnesses for different brands etc, not sure how much they are but I would try them first. Otherwise you can get plugs/connectors from Jaycar and make one fairly easily. Good Luck.

What's your postcode? At a guess I'd say around $10 with Australia post, registered is $2.50 extra which gives traceability and $100 insurance included.

For Sale: Item: Panasonic CQ-VX777 Head Unit PERFECT CONDITION Details: Double Din CD/Tuner/Tape capabilities, Remote Control, Motorised Face, Graphic Equilizer, Auxilary input. Includes all wiring needed with quick connectors and mounting adapter plates so no modification necessary for install. Extra Info: Check out this review CLICK ME *FREE FM FREQUENCY CONVERTER AND PHILLIPS 80W 6.5 INCH SPEAKERS!!!!!!!!!!!!* Item Location: Melbourne (will post at buyers cost) Price: $110 Contact Details: Contact Rene via PM or rene_cote@hotmail.com

Before you take it back or pay someone I would ring up the mongoose (distributor or direct) and get the low down from them. I believe that the auto arm function will reset the system after 30 seconds to the state it was at previously. ie if you had the doors unlocked before re-arm then it will not lock the doors after 30 seconds, it will only arm the immobiliser. If you disarm the system (when the doors and everything was locked) and do not touch anything the re-arm will reset everything to the same state it was before (it will lock all doors and immobilise the engine). It mentions this in the instruction manual, i think it does this so that you cannot lock your keys in the car. Imagine that you disabled the system (unlocking doors and mobilising the engine), got in your car then got out again and left your keys on the seat. If the auto re-arm locked the doors then you wouldn't be able to get back in!! Hope this helps clear things up - I don't think you got ripped off.

Mines pretty hard to get into second when cold, worse at light throttle/low rpm. Shifts smoothly at high rpm and when warm. I figured it was due to worn friction faces on the synchro cones, you can feel the synchro sleeve clashing on the teeth as you pull it into gear. I was considering trying to get it fixed under warranty.... Anyone replaced a 1-2 synchro on R33 Gts-t box? I've read conflicting statements about the availability of parts.

Can you expand on "functioning brake light" please? I'm interested if all LED's are still working and it has no cracks. Let me know, Thanks

Update - 1 HICAS problem solved. After taking my car back to the dealer for the 4th time it looks like I finally have the HICAS problem licked. My initial thought was that it was the steering angle sensor which turned out to be correct. The first clue was that it would not go into diagnostic mode ever, which made me think that it wasn't sensing that the steering beeing moved at all. Anyway, I took it back and told them to replace the sensor (which they attempted to 'fix' last time). After replacing the sensor and then attempting to enter HICAS diagnostic mode it finally worked, HICAS light flashing signifying no fault, rear wheels entered test sequence turning left and right. The car has been driven on a few trips of more than 10 k's since then with no problem showing up, so it looks like this has fixed it. LESSON: If your HICAS is playing up (light coming on in dash) and you cannot enter diagnostic mode, one possible cause is faulty steering angle sensor. The light will come on after 10km if it does not sense that the steering wheel has turned.

Make sure you buy the "tamper proof" torx driver (ie it has a recess in the centre corresponding to the pin on the bolt head). Should be about $20 for a set of 3 as I recall.

Seems like this is a very common problem for a lot of people! I did take the car back to the dealer on the weekend and got the mechanic to look at it while I was there. We took the steering wheel apart and looked at the s.w angle sensor and found a couple of faults. The soldering on the circuit board of the sensor had a few dry joints as well as a broken track. These were fixed and put back together only to find the HICAS light still coming on when I drove home. I'm not totally convinced that that wasn't the problem still only because the sensor itself wasn't replaced, something else may have been wrong with it. I still could not get it into diagnostic mode (either could the mechanic) so maybe the sensor is not working at all - ie it does not detect me turning the wheel when trying to enter diagnostic mode? It's really starting to annoy me now.

Thanks for the info. In my case all steering components are standard. Have checked the P.S fluid and all electrical connectors and steering is straight when on flat level road. Also my car has a 3 year 3rd party warranty and 3 month dealership warranty so I am not paying for anything hence why I am trying to get it fixed. The only problem is I don't have that much confidence in the mechanic who is looking at it (having taken it back twiced to no avail) so I am trying to help find the cause myself. Appreciate your input.

I have used the search heaps, sometimes you can get some good results and sometimes not. I did find one possible solution regarding aligning the steering wheel and checking the steering angle sensor which I will try. I thought I would still post anyway seeing as though most of the time the problem isn't clearly defined (ie what causes light to come on, under what conditions and is it consistent), also the answer nearly always is to just get rid of 4ws, but I would prefer to keep it working as I don't race or drift.

I have had exactly the same problem. I bought a S2 R33 GTST about 3 weeks ago with 57k on the clock. Everything is perfect except that the HICAS warning light comes on after driving for a period of time. I logged the time from starting the car and kms until the HICAS light comes on and found that it was dependant on distance travelled only, with the light consistently coming on after exactly 10 kms whether driving on freeway or twisty roads below and above 80km/hr. Time travelled varied in each case and had no effect on whether the light would come on or not. To clarify, when the HICAS light is on, it means that the system is disabled and 'normal' steering (front wheels only) is in operation. I have also attempted to run the diagnostic procedure in the skyline book from this website but have not even been able to get it into diagnostic mode (ie car operates as normal, no flashing error codes from HICAS light). I have also taken the car back to the dealer twice and they cannot find any problems, also having the HICAS control module replaced has not fixed the problem. If anyone can shed any light on specifically getting the Diagnostic mode to work that would be good.