BHDave

had a front left go in my gtst. It's not uncommon. The front right in my s13 sounds like it isn't too healthy either. They will all let go eventually. Add extra load (track work, big offset) and it will be sooner rather than later. Seriously though. All the bearings in the car will most likely be manufactured by NSK. And all of their bearings have a number stamped on them. Take that number to any bearing supplier and they will be able to get the right one.

I don't have links handy but if you are going to foam fill the do A, B and C pillars as well as the chassis rails and sills. There are improvements in rigidity to be had according to some of the OEM manufacturers research but no quantifiable results in our cars. Or just get a decent cage with some gussets to the a and b pillars...

i was going to suggest mail order through atpturbo who are generally reasonably priced but just checked and they are US$40 each so probably cost more than your current quote by the time they arrive.

I reckon it owed me up around 50k already so i was never going to make my money back on it. I've already parted out over 12k (so roughly what it'd sell for if i was lucky) which has covered the purchase of a new track only s13 and some new semis. quick edit: I'm actually glad i crashed rather than punching myself in the balls. Thanks for that image chris....

my s13 needs an ls1 just so i can fit that manifold. But i reckon i can make the throttle linkage more complicated Very interested to see how this car goes. You only need to better a 1:07.9 at wakefield and you are quicker than my old r32. I reckon your car has 6's in it without too much trouble, probably quicker with a bit of seat time.

I was less injured putting the r32 into a wall at wakefield when i understeered off at the kink at around 200km/h. It hurt my ego though...and i had a decent headache for a day or so

Should fit. I doubt you'd gain much by making it 3.5 inch straight off the housing if you have a split dump but will probably make gains going 3.5 where they merge. In progress pics of the important bits which i have posted before but can't be stuffed looking for Wander round on the weekend, I'm only in eagle vale so not much of a hike. Worst case you save a heap of money by reusing the flange and bends for something

It's a 3 inch main pipe and a 2 inch gate pipe that joins about 12 inches down the pipe. The flange of the gate section has been ground out to match the back of the turbo. My exhaust is all custom and has been evolving over time to the point where it doesn't really follow the factory line any more or use the factory type flanges. Plus the rear half of the front pipe is a bit rough to be honest. You would possibly lop it off just past the join and flare it out to 3.5 or 4 inches and redo the rest.

they are different lengths on each side as the diff center is offset to one side

I agree with dale on that one. My power goal with the 3071 was always pegged at a max of 270-275. I just don't think the compressor can do more based on what i have seen on both 2835s and gtrs/2871's For reference, my power was still rising at 6k, even though boost dropped off to 1 bar. If you're interested you can have my old split dump for a case of beer. It will need modification to fit but still cheaper than a new one and certainly better than an exhaust shop one. I also found big gains by opening up the exhaust post cat.

Their semi prices are all over the shop. The dunlops are significantly more expensive than the re55's or the toyos from what i've seen. I recently picked up a set of 888's for 235 each in 235/45-17 Interesting that their comparison goes against the view here that the toyos are softer than the re55's in the same MedHard grade so they should be providing better grip, particularly on a lightish car. Would be interesting to know what type of semi each manufacturer supplied (soft, med or med/hard), as once again, we have a comparison without all the info.... And I would suggest that their cold pressure on the semis is a bit high (assuming it's cold).

damn work connection not allowing me to properly access the page today. Some good reading. I've said in a few of the other 3071 threads that if you want a 3071 in IW then do not under any circumstance get a .63 so in that regard i agree completely with Dale. And i am also interested to hear a back to back on the turbine housing differences in the same car. Any idea on what the car is primarily used for?

I disagree, wolverine. I would not step up to a .82 3071 despite the issues i have had with the .63. I agree on the .82 in your application as if i was stupid enough to consider a .63 on a 3040 i'd neck myself as you may as well get a 3076 in .82 and get better response and the same peak power as a .63 3040 If i had not put the 32 into a wall (stupid act i know) i would have gone an ex gate and .63 non gated housing without hesitation. I was actually looking for manifolds before the crash. I had more area under the curve and more linear delivery with the same peak power as garys .82. I had torque on demand from 2.5k up and 45rwkw more than gary on the posted dyno sheet at 3500. On a side note, my old plain bearing t300s had more at 3500rpm as well and made 288rwkw (not trying to take away from garys results as i know his transient response would have made for an awesome street car). This extra timing at the bottom end and scavenging talk is all great, but will you really have more torque with no boost and an extra 3 degrees of timing than you will with 20psi jammed into the engine at the same point? You're optimizing your setup for mid and top end and possibly you will have a wider window where the system is working optimally with the bigger housing, but i do not accept that it is the only way. It is acceptable to say i want a setup that is optimal from 2.5-5k rather than 4-7.5. Thats the reason i bought a 3071 in .63. I had a setup that made more power but was willing to lose power for response. The .63 3071 is easy to drive. You don't fall off boost, you don't suddenly have a wave of torque as you are driving out of a corner, and in all honesty it doesn't feel choked in the top end (even with a 7400rpm rev limit). I was as quick at the end of wakefields straight with 255rwkw as i was with 270 odd. IW housing boost issues aside i can't fault the .63 housing on a 3071.

Front rotors sold. Price drop on front calipers, now $250.

Sorry mate, they are as good as sold. Fir interests sake though, went from 238rwkw to 268rwkw with no other changes

No, sorry mate. I have no use for them

general belief or highly biased SAU belief? Can't ask a question in suspension and braking without being directed to a group buy these days....

Done about 15k Immaculate condition removed from engine as i'm parting out the car oiled and bagged to prevent rust, and in original boxes Adjustable exhaust cam gear is an unknown brand (looks to be a modified stock gear) but has been in the car for 3 years and never slipped. Looking for $650 pick up in sydney. Happy to post if buyer pays postage. These are drop in cams and do not require valve spring upgrades. pics taken during removal to show the lack of marks on the lobes. cheers Dave

lines sold

No need to say that. his posts were always insightful and informative. The problem is that 7-8 years ago it was all new and shiny. no one knew what the hell rich and retard was, nor that an atmo bov didn't work too well with a MAF. Unfortunately after 8 years of people asking the same questions they aren't too new and shiny, and people are well beyond the point of patiently retyping the same old answers so just type search. even 3 years ago i would happily re type my experiences converting the r32 to rb25det power, now i just can't be stuffed anymore. I dare any member thats been around for that length of time to dig up some of their first posts and see how truly stupid they were. The other thing was that 7-8 years ago most people didn't expect to be spoon fed the answers, they'd go out and fault find, and if they didn't get anywhere they'd post a question. There's a basic lack of mechanical knowledge these days and it shows.

lol sorry but i can't add anything constructive. Out of interest, do they offer a stage 1 and stage 2 chip? Or are they just offering a stage 3 assuming that people see stage 3 and go OMGWTFBBQ stage 3 chip!!11!11!!! must be hektik! Seriously, stay well the f**k away from that rubbish. If you really want to spend money on useless crap i have a hair dryer with 3076 written on it for the bargain price of $18.95...

new kitty debuts november 23rd disclaimer: new kitty is pretty much old kitty with a tidy up, new wheels and the flares....and maybe a bit more or less shit depending on how much work i actually get done. ando just needs to leave a heat lamp on the roof for a week or so and it'll be looking much more nuggety. This car has the worst factory paint i have ever seen on an s13. phunky, about all i want extra in it now is a decent oil pressure warning light, though i may go a buzzer. Since the photo ive added a couple of lights for the indicators, the check engine light for the pfc knock and the low fuel light as i still run the factory tank and sender.

if the fault went away after you fixed the fuel pump wiring and then eventually came back then the fuel pump is the likely issue. Add in that walbros don't like a lot of pressure and that there are plenty of dodgy copies out there and you are pretty much on the way to having it sorted. I generally don't like the ex coil mods either. Been there done that, went back to splitfires....

nice result. Afrs are still safe on high bost. You could reasonably lean out your low boost ratios. Questions: What turbine housing? What turbine? Your power curve looks very similar to skylinecouples -5023 with the .8odd turbine housing but your low/mid range power matches mine with the .63 and runs away at the top end.... Are you seriously using stock injectors?

lol, i just started painting my interior in silver hammer tone.... If you see them up close they look rubbish, but thanks for the compliment Rears are ok but the front left is terrible. pop rivets and bog can fix that though.