tacker

LOL in my limited experience all things electrical, i know that motors just dont heal themselves all that well, they either work or they dont ( not sure about the pump side of this but motor i reckon i know ) if the smoke gets out of the anything electrical they dont work very well after that. If you dont mind me saying it sounds like you have loose conection some where for it to work and then stop and then work again, no fuse blown or such foul happenings ? and if anyone can invent a way of putting the smoke back into any electrical equipment you will make a fortune.

mate it has to be some kind of fluid spilling onto your rear boots as the first part of the lap your car looks ( and sounds ) good. Tyres cant change that fast went from good to soap in half a lap

yer i think it made the most difference to the heat issue. Although i do have a direct flow of air into the top half of the radiator. It makes sense that if the bonnet would have a pressure build only going to let as much air in as it lets out. Was a lot of air going over the radiator and straight out the vent which now goes through the radiator. No chance of me removing the thermostat will go with the longer in the radiator theory... and had enough of removing things when i did the turbos...yep got about a life times worth of removing stuff then! the bonnet i got is just a copy done in fibre glass so a bit more weight but the guy that did it has just about every type of body kit ever made for these and it was 270$ for the bonnet in a black jell coat which needs to be painted, still had no other option as some wa$%er ( me ) forgot to put the pins in didnt i, folded just nicely back along the roof i found out. Still question is, is 96 still to hot or a good temp

what the hell happened there???? 3 posts

i have a small alumimium radiator type thing i was going to use but not sure if its quite big enough. The measurements are 250mm long 50mm wide and 50mm high, would that be enough. PS unit has been pressure tested to 90psi is a hydrolic oil cooler in another life.

i have a small alumimium radiator type thing i was going to use but not sure if its quite big enough. The measurements are 250mm long 50mm wide and 50mm high, would that be enough. PS unit has been pressure tested to 90psi is a hydrolic oil cooler in another life.

i have a small alumimium radiator type thing i was going to use but not sure if its quite big enough. The measurements are 250mm long 50mm wide and 50mm high, would that be enough. PS unit has been pressure tested to 90psi is a hydrolic oil cooler in another life.

I am still using the standard fan just not the shroud as i feel it may not allow enough air through at higher speed. Which seems enough as it doesnt get hot at an idle. The bonnet i am using has the 3 vents in it. One in the middle just behind the radiator and two further back on the outer edges. Still i sealed between the top of the radiator and the underside of the bonnet it seems to work much better so i think you are correct with your thoughts.

would not think there is much difference between them but the G4 would just be a little lighter as a package

Roy, no expert on these cars but i would be surprised if your tyres would go from what appears ok in the video to what appears crap in the space of 1/2 a lap, well less in fact as you had to catch it in the corner before coming onto the straight. I have not had any issues with the gearbox leaking ( about the only thing that dont leak ) or breathing, how much fluid are we talking about being on the underside of the car. Sounds like a real possibility though, do you see and oil in the bottom of the tread pattern? and by the way i see plenty of 430's on the track and they tend to do the same :-)

Ok update, last time out Ambient temp 38 degrees Track Dubai auto drome national circuit 4.3kms Radiator JJ aluminium R32 Thermostat standard Coolant 50/50 mix for alloy engine, Prestone brand Fan standard Shroud none After market temp gauge 96 max Power FC temp 96 max Changes made relocated oil cooler from in front of radiator to below radiator mounted horizontal with ducting, sealed up all possible openings for the forced air to escape. Made a seal between the top of the alloy radiator and the bonnet to allow the vent to pull more air. Results Very happy with the improvements in coolant temp, had a slight rise in oil temp to just over 100 so still ok with that side. Not sure if relocating the oil cooler or the vent pulling more air out or both changes made the difference. Questions Is 96 degree coolant and 103 ish oil temp ok?

was a problem point and still not where i would like it. Last time out i ran with the alloy radiator, standard fan, no shroud and a N1 water pump, ambient was 40 degree and i was a little hot with both the after market temp gauge in the engine out let and the Power FC both showing 96 max. Still a bit hotter than i would like but its really too hot to run these cars at that temp, intake temps and knock are the pits mate. need to update my other thread on this topic too Yer thanks but i still have top put put the second inlet in the duct and it was easier to do with the front bar back on the car. not to mention quite a bit of filler to put in and sanding to do as you can see

Roy, All fair points mate and i do tend to agree with you. The reason for them being so big is that i am going to run another duct from each fibreglass panel to the other side of the rotor, the ones you see are for the caliper. I thought that 2 would be better than 1, just waiting on more ducting to arrive. The inlet you see is 75mm so not small but not huge either. I also do test how much air i get through these with my big f#$& off fan that we use to cool the car down after each run as the pit garages are air conditioned it helps cooling everything down under the car, pic below The reason is that we do run in temps over 40, yesterday was 46 while i was doing this mod near killed me.

Latest attempt at some front air ducts.

Blipman, Great write up if i didnt mention that before. Have been thinking about your thoughts and actions with regards to the longer bolts and i think i am going to do the same as you as it seems to be a very sound idea. I really pushed my set of G4's last weekend I had a set of old slicks (Michelin S8B 240 x 640 x 18 ) on that were on their last run due to the wear indicators just about being worn away. I found with both the DS 3000 and the track ( green ) pads i could lock the front wheels if i really push the braking to the last possible moment and then apply the brakes as hard as i dared too. We have some big stops on the track we run here as well, 240kph plus twice and a third about 200kph each lap (dubai autodrome ) this in a 400+ AWHP GTR which i have stripped out to just about all i can so i am not sure what weight that would be. The rotors do get much hotter with these compounds, and we do a full 20 minute session which would also have an input to the rotor temps. I have had to increase the air flow to the front rotors to be able to use these compounds, and thought you should know before you try them out, if you use these compounds your next track day

Guys, I am in need of a front drive shaft seal for the front diff. Does anyone have a part number for a R32 GTR for this item and any suggestions for a web based supplier would be good too. Regards

Just a little info, i have just used the G4 track pad ( bright green ) and found it to be a lot less dusty than the street pad. i got through the street pads ( wasnt sure what they were to start with ) in about 800 kms of track work. The new green pads are lasting much better 500kms of track work and not much wear just yet. But in saying that you will find higher temps on the rotors with these pads. Almost no difference to the DS 3000 compound i thought. You will need to duct some air to the discs to help with cooling. I also found that my rear discs were a lot higher temp than the front so i improved the ducting to the rears just in case. I found the same with the brake lines just a bit to long. I have just recently removed my brackets to install some new items as i am told that there was a clearence issue with the lower control arm and the rotor. I did not have to use the old item again so i amnot sure about if the problem you had happened to me when i re installed them, but all 4 mounting bolts were still tight when i removed them

Yes i mean machined discs and some new pads. Any brake shop should be to do this for you and you remove them and re install them to save costs. I found when i changed my brakefluid i just opened the bleed nipple on the caliper and waited for the new fluid to run out. I didnt even need to pump the peddle.

You could try to renew your brake fluid and a good bleed to see if there is air in the system and you get a better pedal feel. Or you may need new brake pads take the wheel off and see how much pad material you have left, if you have to put new pads in get your disc skimmed to get the best out of the system. Or your may have a stuck capiler piston or two, if your not confident to look at these yourself get a mate who is or failing that get it to a good workshop brakes are brakes so it doesnt need to be a skyline specialist to look at these for you.

Or where does the Power fc get its temp signal from? Is it the sensor in the bottom of the radiator?

yer lets see how it turns out

Guys, which gauge would you trust more the indication from the Apexi powerfc or a stand alone gauge mounted in the outlet from the engine?

i mounted one in the passeger side of the front bar and the other i relocated to sit horizontal below the middle of the radiator and put a deflector plate in to duct air up from under the car. Had to make some new brakets but seem to be working ok have good oil temps just a struggle with coolant temps

Yer my car is track only and i have 2 HKS oil coolers already but having some cooling issues at the minute oil temps are fine but the coolant system is getting a bit warm.

so i guess its to take heat from the oil into the cooling system? If so can it be disconnected