tacker

But if the seals in the master cylinder are damaged how did it bleed, should have been a fair amount of fluid each time you pushed the pedal down. Two or three pumps is enough to remove any air in the caliper. And i would not think that pushing the pistons back would have enough volume to push dirty fluid back into the master cylinder. But in saying that not sure how air could have got into your system while replacing pads only, so it could be your seal in the master but what are the odds of the seal failure happening what you change pads.

For the street any dot 5 brake fluid should cover any needs you have and i would guess that is available in the shakey islands. And there are lots of traders on this site who will be able to help you source a set of performance pads, try Just Jap they are web based and can ship to you.

If your coolant level is not dropping and the engine is not getting hot then i would be hopeful that your head and gasket are ok. As others have advised drop a can of radiator flush in drive the car for about 30 minutes drop the old coolant out, fill with new coolant and see what happens after a week. But having the radiator services is top advise and should be done aswell.

could be a duff plug or 2. Did you have the car tuned after fitting bigger fuel pump as it may well have stuffed the old tune. I did see a lower AFR when i put new fuel pumps in and if your old pumps was a little tired evenmore so, and if your running rich you may have fouled a plug hence why it idles a bit rough until it warms up. Then again i could be wrong as i seem to be good at that. :-)

And there you have it LOL

Aye, I know who you are Mario :-) see your R32 drag car has gotten a mention lately on here not to forget your starring role on the R32 burn out. Water pump problem is fixed so see if we can get more than 10 seconds on the dyno next time. And hows the big block coming along?

Check this little number out

Sorry for the hijack will make up for it with crackin clip. Duncan i have about 450 hp at wheels or so the sub zero dyno told me. And absolutly no chance of getting near those bloody Z06 corvettes. 7 litre ( 505hp ) and grillions of torque. they are 60% carbonfibre and weight less than 1200kgs. They are not the C5 C6 normal corvette, i can deal with those :-) Anyone want to travel over they have have a crack at them have plenty of room.

Have a look at the snad dunne racing in the middle east.

My old R32 GTR runs most track days with the name super cars, ferrari 360, 430, 599, porsche 993, 996, 997 turbo, 996 & 997 GT3, 997 GT3 RS, 964 3.6 turbo, lambo's of all kinds ( not even going to attempt to spell them ), BMW CSL M3, aerial atoms, caterm, Audi RS6, whole gaggle of evo's and subies. And to date the only cars that out perform the old girl are the Z06 corvettes, porsche GT2, Carrea GT2 and SR3 & SR8 radicals. Has to be said though that the slicks made a huge difference to the car,there is not a lot of straightline difference ( except those bloody Z06 ) its through the twisties that my car makes ground on them.

LOL turn the switch around :-) you must have change the wires around on the switch when you installed the other. Have not seen these switches but if there is 6 change the middle 2 or if there is 3 change the end 2.

Good old dollop of silastic will take care of it, used to have to do it all the time racing speedway cars.

Yer i can get some details for you as Mario tunes my GTR for me. I seen it run its 8.2 sec pass and the car is very impressive. Mind you it is even down to carbon fibre door skins. But you should hear it run......sweeeet. Mario's father told me the engine was good for 900HP at the wheels But to be truthful you should see his sand run patrol...that thing is just bloody plain old scarey

nothing normal about braking from 200km/h is this done on a track. Does it make the noise from 40> after pads are hot or only when cold. Also what pads are you running.

Dont forget a big old box of bandaids too for mangled hands.

You wont stop at 200 either its very addictive LOL

fair guess if your hoses have been changed then the restictor went with them, sorry stuck in Ghana at moment so cant snap a pic for you

good to know then

Its the hose connected to the boost controller with the yellow band around it, squeeze the hose where the band is and you will feel it

Are they ?

Cheers Uras might go for heat exchanger

It seems that 76mm ID is the easest to get hold of and that would be a perfect fit for those eletric cooling fans :-)

Nope dont think its over kill! My version of over kill is having to do track sessions in 43 + degrees (without killing engine). So hot now we have to do night session under lights. Yes RB26 do have an oil to water heat exchanger, but even with 2 x oil to air coolers my oil temp still bumps 120 degrees. Will also allow another 4 litres of coolant which will give the coolant more time out side the engine which can only be a good thing.

they do spray water onto the brakes of a DTM car but only when they are coming into pitlane as stopping with red hot brakes causes fade when they return to the track or so the article i found said. Also those truck they race pump water onto the brakes all the time. I have also found some 3" 12 volt fans that are used in nascar to cool brakes down. They are place in the brake ducting and will move 145CFM i think that would help.