tacker

Duncan, yep had to get a letter of no objection from CAMS sent to the local ASN before i could get it though.

So no fuel getting pass the FPR?

nope cant import my car from here just yet, so i am looking at buying one for Australia. Need a car at home any way and what better than a nice R32 GTR. Then i can come along to PI which is just down the road from my home. Just gotta work on the licence bit... would a FIA international C be good enough??

Mate it has to be fuel! You say that you have spark so that removes the CAS from you check list If so then remove the fuel line from the return of your FPR and put it into a old plastic bottle and turn the ingintion on and see if the fuel is flowing after the injectors. should be about 2.5 -3 litres a minute for standard pumps without the engine running If there is about the correct amount then replace the pipe then do as suggested above remove your fuel rail and injectors reconnect them so you can see if the injectors fire or spray but do unplug the CAS when doing this step. Did you clean out the fuel rail before reconnection the tested injectors, as you may have just re blocked them as there would have more than likely still been crud in the system if it was as bad as it sounds.

Mate sounds like its knackered anyway you might have to replace it. what you could try is a very large srcew driver and place it where the teeth things used to be even better if 2 of you do it at the same time.

Not as far as Dubai but i am working on it:-)

wouldnt be surprised if there is no internals in them...its just for show

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gQiyH-kKgRo...ted&search= SCAREY

serious car mate good luck

complete and utter waste

Yep some more pics that you can look at without sun glasses on. Confirm its a 57 chev

Yep that will do it, not sure about if the others can be used

if it is the pump leaking you might as well do both, who knows how many kms are on it

What yall think

being tight should not stop the car starting. I have not worked on GTST before so i dont know what set up they use for belt tention. It got to be either spark or fuel mate

not so sure they go so quickly on a GTR, if the boost was left at factory levels i dont think you would have a problem with the ceramic exhaust wheel. Its only when we up the boost that the problems can occur.

again i stand to be corrected but your upper control arm governs your camber not castor. Surely with 13 degrees castor you would struggle to turn it i think

mate from what i know and i am sure to be corrected its a lottery. With 130k on them i wouldnt go any high than your current boost setting. Some get away with running higher boost and there are plenty on here that have not. Scarey part is if they fail it can cost you your engine if you are unlucky.

yer not doubting it, just i reckon every one removes the bloody beeper

Very short clip of car last friday night under light in Dubai. Shows the car just entering a coner from the main straight, so braking from 240kph to about 90kph so some very hot rotors. Been 9 months now and still going ok

yer thats about right i can feel the -5 start to push around 3700 ish.....to busy hanging on for dear life about then for a more presice figure

the 2860-7 i dont know, better some one who has installed them comments. Forgot to mention the $50 for the WD40 to spray the exhaust manifold bolts for a week befor even attempting undoing one of them. Is a very sad story on here about what i went through doing mine see if i can find it

LOL starter motor think thats a typo

check the bottom of the water pump there is a small hole there, see if its leaking from there which side of the car does the puddle form under

in the right position for the beeper thingy under the steering columb