32godzilla

Thanks heaps guys. Clint32, once I get the turbos off and get them sussed out I'll PM you.

Hi all, just recently stuffed the rear turbo on my GTR. Sounds like a helicopter now as soon as any boost is raised. I've rung a few Jap import places and most have said they're pretty hard things to find. Anyone been in this situation before and what did you do? I'm thinking a new turbo setup might be the go but money's tight at the moment due to building a house. Any suggestions would be appreciated!

well said Bl4cK32!!

Yeah, well organised Erica and John. Really good drive - especially the end of Range road where Matt and I had some fun! :D Love your style John, "quick, let's have a go here Jaffa". :bahaha: Don't worry about the blind crest! Hippy, when are you going to stop being so soft....

yep.

ahhhhhh :confused:

:bahaha: :bahaha: Good one Matt!!

Again, it all comes down to how much money you spend on your car, spend 20-50K on anything and it's going to run quick. If I had 20K to waste on my car I'm sure it would run low 11's, but I'd rather drive my stockish car around that's not a pig in traffic and still be able to leave most things for dead on the road.

Actually, just got HPI no. 39. The cover car (QLD R33 GTS-T) has a race prepped tri-matic in it, has run 10.2 on slicks. So yeah, auto's good for 1/4 mile, but not for flogging through the hills.

7 grand stall, shit that only leaves 1k rev range on my car! Munro's would be allright revving to 10K. Just couldn't drive a skyline with an auto, it just seems wrong. Although in my Torana days I had a turbo 350 with full manual valve body, shift kit and high stall.... And it still only ran 13's!

Matt, I was thinking about putting a powerglide in the GT-R, yeah and then putting a 350 Chev it in with a Ford 9-inch... what do you reckon??

yeah tinted windows will do it to ya.... just ask hippy!

Jeez, what on ever did they defect him for?? :confused:

I'm assuming the LS1 meet is a Melbourne/Sydney thing.... when's it happening?? Might be worth checking out. How bout an LS1 vs RB meet??

Steve, you're a mind reader!! he he Seriously, the launch is ridiculous!! In the wet tonight it was the quickest I've felt, can't wait for some dry action!

I reckon I'll give the nationals a go, just got my car back tonight after 3 weeks. OS clutch is awesome!! :D Finally get all 4 wheels spinning when I dump it, not just clutch slip! Bring it on!

Here's a pic of John's drift6 motor (hope you don't mind John). Check the clear timing belt cover - nice!!

Here's some pics of my conversion. This is the pull type alloy housing and clutch fork. The bellhousing before conversion The pushtype housing (brand new from Nissan) The finished product If anyone needs higher res pics just PM me and I'll send them to you.

I'm pretty sure a new OS clutch and the like come with new thrust bearings. OS do a conversion kit that's worth around the $850-$900 mark. JMS have got one in stock, but I thought I'd save myself some money and get it from Nissan. Don't know whether it's the same parts or not.

Hey guys, I'm in the middle (actually the end) of converting my clutch from pull to push. Some of you may know what is involved but for those that don't this may help, cause it's taken me nearly 3 weeks to get all the parts necessary. This is what you need - The alloy housing the clutch fork attaches to. A new clutch fork with fulcrum style action. Clip to attach the clutch fork to the alloy housing. Bearing carrier, if it's for an OS twin plate it needs to be slightly shorter than factory OEM. New thrust bearing to suit the clutch. Clip to attach the bearing carrier to the clutch fork. Push type slave cylinder. The cost isn't as bad as you might think, I got all of this brand new from nissan for $500. But not knowing what I needed I got a couple of parts, then realised I needed another thing then something else etc etc..... The only real modification that you need to do is drill out the two "dummy" bolt holes that would have been drilled from the factory if your car was a push type and tap them to fit your bolts , if you have a look at your bellhousing you can clearly see them next to the slave cylinder. I'll post pics later.

I'll put my hand up for an oil cooler.

At the moment my car is up on a hoist with it's bell housing and clutch removed. It's a long story, but basically the 2nd hand OS twin plate I got from D1 is pull type and I need push type (or vice versa, I can't remember - it's way too confusing). Anyway, I spoke to James and he said you can modify the bellhousing by drilling and tapping two holes and getting a housing with clutch fork off the other style clutch and bolting it in...... Well, I went all over Adelaide and finally got one from Tilbrook's, went up to the mechanic doing the job and it ending up being exactly the f**king same as the one already in my car!! (btw nothing against Tilbrook's, they were really helpful, it was just unfortunate). So anyway, before I bore you to death my car isn't going to be ready for possibly ages... and I'm way pis?ed off. Oh, and my exhaust as some of you will remember had seen better days and needs replacing - just another thing. So have fun everyone, I'll see you out there next time. P.S. Saw John's DRIFT 6 at Tilbrook's, dog box apparently arrived today, can't wait to see on the road!

I was wondering how you would cope Timmy!!!!

Why don't you catch up with us around lunch time, I'll PM you the location and approximate time of lunch and meet us there - or are you scared or something!!?

Depends whether people are getting on the booze Saturday night, doesn't bother me too much, although I think any earlier than 10am would be pushing it.