the safc ... doesn't support injectors..
with the power your aiming at.. i think it's better to go stand alone ecu.. or the emanage ultimate.. not too sure..
tune needs to be done on the dyno..
can't set sensor calc to 2in 1 out.. when i change to 2in, it only shows add or ave on out..
ok.. i've just tried sensor calc to 2in add out.. and still no change... rev still drops to 600rpm with tcs, slip and knock lights up on the dash.
ok.. so now i've tried to set the sensor type to hotwire 4in 4out.. cal 1in 1out..
when i start the engine.. the revs goes to 2krpm now with the ... sensor lights up as well... (top right of speedo) .. what is wrong with it? i tried change it back to 1in1out and same thing ... it jumps to 2krpm rev... and stays constant.
i unplug the afm wire from the safc and plug it back witout the safc and it works fine again... is there something wrong with my safc? am i going to damage the engine if i keep trying to work it out by doing these things?
ok.. thanks for the reply..
just want to make sure something.. with initialize..
do i go into initialize and choose yes after everything is done, then turn ign off.. is that correct? or am i suppose to go into initialize .. as soon as i turn on ign?
is there a place i can take my rims to.. to do something like that?/ repaint the center and polish the dish again as mine looks really.. dirty
and i wouldn't have a clue of how to do it myself...
in vic as well..
ok.. manage to get it starting now..
went through the initialize stage before starting the engine..
sensor type - hot wire - in 1 out 1 - in 1 out 1
car - 6 cyclinder and arrow diagonal up
when go in sensor check.. it shows voltage on afm input 2 and not 1 .. and throttle was showing 0.65v
when i start my engine after initialize setup.. the engine drops rev to 600rpm and the light on top right corner lights up.. (assuming its knock?)
when i unplug the afm wire from the safc and plug it back normally.. engine is fine .. but as soon as i plug the afm wire into safc ... it drops idles and shows knock on my dash
the white wire from safc is connected to afm input and outputs on the yellow to the ecu.. so i am pretty sure i did it correct.
when i first start the engine.. it seems to be running fine.. idle normal but when i went into the monitor section and held the arrow to the right... the engine just dropped the rev and knock sensor shows up.. so i am not sure what i did..
help me please... is there anyway to reset the safc? and how?
its not new.. its just that.. in the wiring manual.. it said connect 2 ground wire... atleast 1cm apart.. so i'm not sure if i connect both of them to the -ve terminal will damage it or not..
i just tried to install the safc2 .. wired up the power and 2 ground.. turn on ignition and nothing comes on..
i am pretty sure i wired them to the correct ones ..
would i be able to connect it straight to the battery to test if its working? eg. 1power wire to +ve and 2ground wire to -ve on the battery?
i think thats the wrong one... that micheal linked... as that one sits on top of the gtt bonnet
your pic is for the gtr bonnet on the gtt front bar... should check URAS .. as i remember he had some..
i understand ... more load means more pressure ...
but mine sometimes idle at 1kg and at constant speed is around 2kg.. that is abit low... since I've driven this car for almost 3years now and it was never like this before. and when i turn off the engine .. and start again.. it goes back to idling at 3kg instantly.. and while driving at constant speed is about 4kg ..
I'm not sure if this has been asked before but I didn't get what i needed to know when i used the search..
my oil pressure goes to about 7kg when cold.. and when its warm it drops to about 4.. i know that is normal as it has always been like that..
now.. after i had an oil change .. motul 8100... while driving the oil would drop to 2.. and when i rev it goes to about 3 or 3.5 but on constant speed is 2 .. (usually 4) and at idle its about 1.5.
but when i turn off the engine and start it again... it goes back to normal.. as in .. idle at 2 , constant speed at 4.. n revving makes it goes to about 5-6..
what is wrong with it?? is it just the oil playing up or theres more to it?
omg ... something is wrong with your head..
i know that a resistor is required.. I am saying that no extra resistor are required to be soldered on..
eg.. this link as posted above.. r33 LED
you know what.. I'm not gonna bother arguing with you.. as i definitely knows what you're trying to say..
he bought the same LED off 666DAN like me.. and all he wanted to know was if his required to solder extra resistor on.. but 666DAN has made it easy.. so his not required to..
i just posted some pics up so its better to understand what i did.. that is all.
i mean... in the link posted above.. you're required to solder a resistor on the LED.. these LED doesn't require you to solder any resistor on.. i think you're misunderstanding the question.. or maybe its me.. misreading it.
here are the pics...
left is the original bulb, middle is LED, right is chopped LED
here is when the LED in the holder.. the holder has been chopped (modified) a bit .. to fit the LED
no resistor was used..
there are 3 screws i think... that u gotta remove from the inside of boot.. behind those covers..
then the whole light will pop out from the outside..
hope it makes sense..